A Frame Problem

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Thanks again everyone. Photos are spot on Mick gonna try that tomorrow, will just bolt ball joint straight onto plate on axle then go through your process. While I’ve been waiting for awnsers I managed to get a wire threaded throughout chassis for harness. Easier then I thought, I suppose the hard bit will be pulling the harness through.

Most people will advise against threading the loom through a galv chassis for fear of damaging the loom.

When I lined mine up with the extension, it moved the chassis relative to the axle, so don’t be surprised if you move yours too.
 
Well Couldn’t resist having a go before I went home, do you know the saying, It Does Excactly What It Says On The Tin well it Did . Still got to get the nuts on arms at chassis side. I just hand tightend ball joint, and pin only went in one way facing outwards. Should I Toghten this right up??
Now please don’t say my bolts are facing wrong way, does it matter as noticed there on opposite side to Micks.
 

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The heavy bolts, 2 off, that go through the balljoint carrier you mean?
I seem to remember, again memory is foggy, that if you put the bolts in one way it makes it difficult to remove them if you need to later on? Can't remember why? If you have the room to complety remove those bolts without them catching then it's correct. It might have been that mine were seized in and I needed to thrap them out and there is no room to hit them but if they were in the other way there is?
 
The heavy bolts, 2 off, that go through the balljoint carrier you mean?
I seem to remember, again memory is foggy, that if you put the bolts in one way it makes it difficult to remove them if you need to later on? Can't remember why? If you have the room to complety remove those bolts without them catching then it's correct. It might have been that mine were seized in and I needed to thrap them out and there is no room to hit them but if they were in the other way there is?
I've had them in and out the same way 3 times now, plenty of room, also copper slipped them so should be good for next time. Is there a Torque setting for the castle nut ??
 
Well Couldn’t resist having a go before I went home, do you know the saying, It Does Excactly What It Says On The Tin well it Did . Still got to get the nuts on arms at chassis side. I just hand tightend ball joint, and pin only went in one way facing outwards. Should I Toghten this right up??
Now please don’t say my bolts are facing wrong way, does it matter as noticed there on opposite side to Micks.

If you mean the bolts for the balljoint to arms, then mine are in opposite ways. One from the left, and one from the right. I’m not certain if it’s correct, but that’s how they were when I stripped it, so replaced them the same way. Mine looked like it could catch on the diff if they both went in from the left, and one wouldn’t clear the exhaust if they both went in from the right.
 
I've had them in and out the same way 3 times now, plenty of room, also copper slipped them so should be good for next time. Is there a Torque setting for the castle nut ??

I tightened mine as tight as I could get it. I don’t know if there is a torque setting for it, but mine isn’t at any specific value.

Edit: does that castle nut have a washer under it? It’s not clear in the photo.
 
Well that one was easier then I thought it would be.
 

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Don't forget to put a rubber grommet round the edge of the chassis hole, probably not needed but better to be safe and not have the edge of the hole cut through your loom
 
Don't forget to put a rubber grommet round the edge of the chassis hole, probably not needed but better to be safe and not have the edge of the hole cut through your loom
Yes still got old ones but a bit shoddy, so will order 2 new ones, when I find the part numbers.
 
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