Disco 2 A couple of queries

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GingerPuss

GingerPuss

Active Member
Posts
232
Location
Southport
Hi Folks,

I have just bought a new (to me) Discovery 2 in Kinver sand (don't laugh, I like that colour):
discoweb.jpg


So far as I can work out it is fine (long MOT with no advisories - although not much service history).

There are two queries I have please:

1) The front dash twin cupholders won't push back in - seems to be broken. Is this a common problem and is there a fix?

2) I will be replacing the front tyres this week which are low on tread (rears are excellent wranglers). The front offside and rear offside wheel nuts have one nut with a dimple. I was led to believe that means they are locking wheelnuts? There is no key in the toolkit and the dealer who sold it said he didn't have one. Is there a way around this - and why wouldn't the nearside front/rear tyres not have any dimpled nuts?

Everything else seems to work fine. Is there anything I should be doing or checking before I give it a service at the weekend?

Cheers
Mark
 
The locking wheel nuts have removable covers, there is a plastic tool for that, the covers have a dimple to distinguish them from the other wheel nuts.

Why your other locking wheel nuts don't have dimple nuts I haven't a clue, are they a different nut? or is it simply both have the covers are missing?

A L R main dealer service may help u with finding the locking nut code as they will have the full set of the removal tool for use when carrying out a service, or u may find the code on a card in your owners handbook.
 
discool said:
The locking wheel nuts have removable covers, there is a plastic tool for that, the covers have a dimple to distinguish them from the others wheel nuts.
Why your other locking wheel nuts don't have dimple nuts I haven't a clue, are they a different nut? or is it simply both have the covers are missing?

A L R main dealer service may help u with finding the locking nut code as they will have the full set of the removal tool for use when carrying out a service, or u may find the code on a card in your owners handbook.
Click to expand...

Thanks Discool....sadly no card in the handbook pack....nor is there a plastic tool :(

looks like I will have to visit a main stealer to be able to change the tyres.

Cheers
Mark
 
The plastic remover tool is available on ebay; costs between about six and twelve quid depending on where you get it. The part number is ANR5436.
The wheelnut keys are also available for about twelve quid but you must have the code letter for the key. If this has not been changed by a previous owner then your local LR main stealer should be able to provide all the security information such as EKA, radio code and wheelnut key code for free. You will need proof of ownership.
I don't know where you've already looked for these bits, but in most cases they are stowed in the "wallet" type case in the pocket on the inside of the tailgate door. You should also find in there the wheelbrace, extension handles for the jack, a pair of chocks and of course the wheelnut key and the remover tool. Only the jack is stowed under the bonnet.
 
Last edited:
brian47 said:
The plastic remover tool is available on ebay; costs between about six and twelve quid depending on where you get it. The part number is ANR5436.
The wheelnut keys are also available for about twelve quid but you must have the code letter for the key. If this has not been changed by a previous owner then your local LR main stealer should be able to provide all the security information such as EKA, radio code and wheelnut key code for free. You will need proof of ownership.
I don't know where you've already looked for these bits, but in most cases they are stowed in the "wallet" type case in the pocket on the inside of the tailgate door. You should also find in there the wheelbrace, extension handles for the jack, a pair of chocks and of course the wheelnut key and the remover tool. Only the jack is stowed under the bonnet.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian,

I have another stupid question please - it isn't clear (to me) after reading the Haynes manual, but I want to change the oil and both oil filters. Is it OK to drain the oil and then remove/change the filters BEFORE refilling the engine with fresh oil - OR, (like my V8 SD1) do I have to change the filters when the fresh oil has already been added, to prevent the oil pump from draining and thus needing to be primed?

Cheers
Mark
 
As far as I know, I pay somebody to do it for me these days but if I were to do it myself, I would run the engine so that it's warm, drain all the oil then change the filters, if you're worried then you can fill the canister filter with fresh oil before you screw it in place. The centrifugal filter doesn't require any filling, just change the rotating insert and make sure that the seals are seated correctly. Refill the engine with 7.2 litres of your favourite oil and start. It'll clatter for a few seconds and then settle down as all that lovely fresh oil finds its way round the engine and out onto the floor. Recheck and repair the leaks and refill again.
 
brian47 said:
As far as I know, I pay somebody to do it for me these days but if I were to do it myself, I would run the engine so that it's warm, drain all the oil then change the filters, if you're worried then you can fill the canister filter with fresh oil before you screw it in place. The centrifugal filter doesn't require any filling, just change the rotating insert and make sure that the seals are seated correctly. Refill the engine with 7.2 litres of your favourite oil and start. It'll clatter for a few seconds and then settle down as all that lovely fresh oil finds its way round the engine and out onto the floor. Recheck and repair the leaks and refill again.
Click to expand...

Thanks again Brian
It couldn't leak as much as my Series 3 !

Cheers
Mark
 
As Brian said amongst other things the EKA code is very important so better know it ... the 100% certain thing is to read it with tester eventually save your own EKA composed by small digits to be easyer to insert.... without it you can end up immobilised due to a fob or receiver failure and unable to start the car

about the drink tray, remove the ash and coin trays and you'll see 6 screws, undo them and remove the drink tray then you'll see the culprit, mine had a small plastic bit snapped and the spring vanished, released the mechanism and now i'm opening and closing it easy with my hand without spring activity... a new one doesnt worth 90 quid for me just to be partially automatic
 
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If push comes to shove and you cant find the locking nut tool ,
go to halfords and for about 10 pounds you can buy a reverse cutting thread locking nut removal tool,just screw that on and it will take the locking nut off ,but will also ruin the nut so will need a replacement

Since i found this tool at halfords ive never bothered buying new locking nuts as i dont see the point as with this tool they come off just as easy as normal nuts
 
Well....my locking wheel nut problem is solved. Turns out the wheel nuts with the dimples just came off with a regular wheel brace. I bought some new (regular non-locking) nuts to replace them - and replaced a couple of others that had started to 'swell'.

Everything was going so well - and then the 3 Amigos lit up on the dash (TC/ABS/HD). I parked up for half an hour and the lights had gone when I set off down the motorway (great, I thought!)....stopped for diesel near home and they were back again - lighting up my dash like an amber Christmas tree.

I solved one problem, and another popped up !

Does the 4WD system still work with the 3 amigos? Can I still go off road with it like that?

Cheers
Mark
 
my disco 2 has the three amigos on all the time,but doesnt
affect owt,got a diagnostics check done=front wheel n/s sensor
needs replacing,i have bought the full hub including sensor it
looks the easiest option.
what bugs me is why did land rover add hd & tc, four wheel
drive in low box does the same job.
looks a decent motor by the way.
regards stan.
 
stannswhite said:
my disco 2 has the three amigos on all the time,but doesnt
affect owt,got a diagnostics check done=front wheel n/s sensor
needs replacing,i have bought the full hub including sensor it
looks the easiest option.
what bugs me is why did land rover add hd & tc, four wheel
drive in low box does the same job.
looks a decent motor by the way.
regards stan.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stan

My local independent LR guy put a fancy diagnostic gizmo on. There were loads of faults logged but most looked to be historical - he cleared them all. He said to go back to him if the 3-amigos return so he can run the check again to find out the current problem causing it. He didn't charge me anything.

I fixed the cup holder which was bugging me. I'm not too sure about the accuracy of the fuel gauge - I filled up the tank when it was showing half full, but it took 60 litres at the pump.

M
 
GingerPuss said:
Does the 4WD system still work with the 3 amigos? Can I still go off road with it like that?

Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
it depends what's the fault which triggered the 3 amigos cos according to that there will be a default mode which can be different from one case to another, it's possible to have some functions or not at all...you have to read the fault code to know in which situation you are, table attached, it misses the sensor faults but in case of sensor failure all the functions are inhibited though if the fault code is for na sensor but it's caused by worn hub the TC and ABS will still work with reduced performance

ABS defaults.jpg
ABS diagnostics.jpg
 
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