92 LPG RRC V8 AUTO Idle issues and Smock

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
So I take it that you advice against fitting non genuine parts then.

How would it be to fit genuine Dizzy Cap, Rotor arm and Leads, then fit non genuine Sensor (Fuel). I don't want to spend £80 on a new sensor to find it doesn't fix the bloody thing.

I've read people have changed a non genuine Fuel sensor without issue.
 
Yeah they are silly prices and yes I agree that £80 sensor it too much too. I havent bothered to change mine for that reason. You can only try, might be worth testing yours before you pay out.

The coolant one is cheaper, I cant remember if you changed that yet mate?
 
Update:

No longer changing my Dizzy Cap, Rotor arm and leads as I have found on the recent receipts that these have been changed with genuine parts.

So now I'm going to change my Fuel and Coolant sensors...Just waiting for my Coolant and Fuel sensor to arrive. So will change them out during the week and report back.

I was thinking of changing my Coil as well but have hit a hurdle. The books say that I have a BOSCH unit PRC6574 which is about £40. The other Coil RTC5628 at about £8. Rimmers say that these are interchangeable. Is this so?

I have a 92 V8 3.9 Auto... I can't read anything on the coil in place and the top is orange if that helps.
 
I agree.. but seeing that every other bloody thing under the bonnet is Lucas - doesn't build me with confidence.

To be honest... if the Lucas is interchangeable - I'd fit that as a cheap replacement to find out if mine has gone us or not. If not - I'd keep it as a spare. If so - then I'll change it out with a pukka Bosch then still keep the lucas as a spare.

Question still stands... can I really fit either Bosch or Lucas units without issues ?

After all; If I'm correct - The dizzy, dizzy cap and leads are lucas... why not the Coil.
 
All I would say is that cheap ****e parts regardless of brand are just that and do not help you rule things out.

I bought a britpart stepper motor (didnt know it was britpart on the order site) , half the price of genuine. didnt even work at all straight out of the box (the old one worked better) , I had to sent it back for a refund!:eek:
 
Q) is a 'fuel temp sensor' and 'injection temp sensor' the same thing or different parts?

I also have a random vacuum pipe at the rear. It is connected to the back of the stepper motor but is too short to go anywhere.... I have NO idea where this should go. This has a vacuum on it.

The symptoms remain as a low idle (about 250) when in drive, most of the time feeding in the throttle will kill her. Alternatively - literally dumping your right foot will instantly kill her. Petrol and LPG the same.

These make it extremely difficult to pull away from traffic lights for example... thus she's still parked up.

I have a new cool temp sensor but can't get the old one out... grrr!!
 
vougese39 said:
in 20 years never had a failed fuel temp sensor! always a coolant temp sensor
Click to expand...


i have to agree with this, i thought of getting one when my classic played up, but when my parts guy said he has never sold one in 22 years i thought maybe best not bother. glad i didn't as it turned out to be duff plugs. even though they had only done 800 miles.
 
jwaldron said:
Q) is a 'fuel temp sensor' and 'injection temp sensor' the same thing or different parts?
Click to expand...

Not heard of an injection temp sensor:confused:

[/quote]I also have a random vacuum pipe at the rear. It is connected to the back of the stepper motor but is too short to go anywhere.... I have NO idea where this should go. This has a vacuum on it.

The symptoms remain as a low idle (about 250) when in drive, most of the time feeding in the throttle will kill her. Alternatively - literally dumping your right foot will instantly kill her. Petrol and LPG the same.[/quote]

Sounds like your fuel pressure regulator isn't connected. As far as I am aware, the vac pipe by the stepper goes on the back of the pressure regulator. I assume you are talking about the small vac pipe and not the bigger idle air bypass hose that is connected from the stepper to the inlet (just by the throttle disc). I can only assume that because you do not have the correct fuel pressure, the engine can't cope with anything above idle because it can't get enough fuel. ( I think that is the right way around?)

[/quote]These make it extremely difficult to pull away from traffic lights for example... thus she's still parked up. [/quote]

Yes I suppose it would.
 
I've had another look around and found that I have:

1) A vacuum pipe running from the Dizzy Vacuum advance to the top of the plumb
2) A vacuum pipe running from the stepper to the fuel regulator (now connected following Classic Kev's advice)
3) A larger pipe running from what looks like the bulkhead to the cruse control vacuum unit.

I can't locate another one from the stepper to the plumb...

Fireed her up and as she warms now... she drops the idle down to the first line which I assume is about 250.. too low and she struggles to keep going. Again..... if you are very gentle with the throttle you can get her past 750 at which point you can do what ever you want and she will rev up without any issues.... but if you apply the normal driving throttle pressure from idle she just bogs and cuts out.

I'm at the end with this now... and am thinking of selling the bloody thing as I can't be doing with this. So if anyone can point me in the right direction to save the landy from ebay I'd welcome it.
 
I know a guy who will come and sort this probably for a couple of hundred quid, I had almost the same prob. so before you ditch it give him a try. He is on here as voguese39 , tell him John from Gosport sent ya.
 
jwaldron said:
I've had another look around and found that I have:

1) A vacuum pipe running from the Dizzy Vacuum advance to the top of the plumb
2) A vacuum pipe running from the stepper to the fuel regulator (now connected following Classic Kev's advice)
3) A larger pipe running from what looks like the bulkhead to the cruse control vacuum unit.

I can't locate another one from the stepper to the plumb...
Click to expand...

Don't quit, never say die - work through the frustration. I know how you feel.

If you can, post some pics of the back of the engine so we can see what pipes you got going where. The low idle could be a few things but if there is a hose loose/missing somewhere it could be an easy fix. Do you have Haynes/Rave or workshop manual?
 
I'll have a go and get some pics tomorrow now. But following your advice I no longer have any pipes that are not connected.... unless I'm actually missing a complete pipe somewhere.

I'll also try and video whats going on as well so peeps can see what I'm on about.
 
Right. She's up on ebay for sale... sod it; had enough. Got myself a 97 P38 DSE insted as an upgrade... now at least I'm expecting electrical issues, but fingers crossed..lol
 
i have a l,reg landrover 4.0 v8 on lpg its got a spark and fuel going to it,and iv try ed easy start and its still not starting up,could you give me any help.thanks
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
Base idle tuning - Disco 1 - V8 3.9L
Replies
5
Views
510
discool
discool
Lej
Fast idle speed (tick-over) + other queries!
Replies
3
Views
469
lynall
L
H
Rough idle - discovery 1
Replies
10
Views
834
hi_arshard
H
Spong
Erratic idle speed
Replies
5
Views
528
Spong
Spong
JPaussie26
Land Rover wont Idle!
Replies
2
Views
663
marjon
marjon
Back
Top