'92 Defender Cambelt change now no start!!

Hi I have had a look through but have only skimmed over bits of what maybe the answer -

Cambelt needed changing, being mega consciencious barred her over, checked there were no issues with the pistons/valves knocking, then checked all valve clearances, so I thought job done, belt changed no issues! but now the engine won't start and just turns over.

So problem must be fuel timing, so I took belt back off, moved one tooth round on fuel timing sprocket (just in case I was tooth out upon fitting belt, tried again, no joy, so moved 2 teeth the other way (to cover movement +/- 1 of original either way, still no joy.

So thought i'll retime her properly then, as upon closer inspection my crank / cam was 1 out from a previous change. Sorted that and I thought i'd aligned the fuel timing correctly but she still wont start now. Anyone had anything similair/any ideas what I can try next.

Next issue I need to re charge the battery before I try again!

TIA

Have you knocked the wire of the stop solenoid on the injector pump?


Lynall

lynall said:

Have you knocked the wire of the stop solenoid on the injector pump?


Lynall

Click to expand...

This is one thing it could be - as it would give the same outcome, and the thought has crossed my mind since reading about it earlier however without checking I think its unlikely as i shouldn't have gone near enough to it. (not that im not willing to check just havent been out to the landie since bar to get the battery off for charging) - which could also be the problem in itself, if she wasn't turning over quick enough to compress the fuel?!

Needless to say if it turns out to be one of these I will be really annoyed with myself for it being something so simple.

Just to satisfy my curiosity my actions i carried out to time her up should be right...

Set the Crank to TDC with Woodruff key at TDC, lined up with arrow .
Set the cam lined up the small timing dot with the arrow.
Set the timing pulley with a drill bit locked into the locking hole, and loosened the 3 locking nuts on the pulley.
Fitted belt, tensioner etc and did the 3 nuts back up, then rotated twice and then final check of valve clearances (0.020mm) if memory serves me right from Haynes book of lies, but read some people have them set to different setting??

If I have done anything incorrect please feel free to point it out and take the ****!! Best way to learn not to do something wrong again!!

other than tappets being set to 0.20 (according to my haynes book of lies) you did exactly the same as me.

what size drill bit did you use to lock the pump? think it needs to be around 9-9.5 mill iirc

bobbler said:

other than tappets being set to 0.20 (according to my haynes book of lies) you did exactly the same as me.

what size drill bit did you use to lock the pump? think it needs to be around 9-9.5 mill iirc

Click to expand...

Yes it should read 0.20 - i keep putting decimal points in the wrong place when it comes to re typing them out!


9mm, as it was the best one I could get to fit! I'm just off to have a play with her now, and see how I get on, will report back...

Is it chucking any smoke out of the exhaust at all?
Could be the stop solenoid has chosen this moment to die, cheap as chips on fleabay.



Lynall

Success!! Obviously my first attempt to retime her hadn't been as accurate as i'd thought - the drill bit in the fuel pulley was locking in something, but not the correct orifice, one to the left of the TDC mark. I've put her back together (less the cowling and the fan) for the time being to check for watertightness etc tomorrow and drive her out of the grage into the light to check to make sure there isnt excess smoke etc, but i'm quietly confident. Delighted with the fact that I managed to get there in the end, many thanks to those of you on here who chipped in with suggestions and advice. Next off on the engine will be a check of the top end making sure there are no bent push rods etc...

There wont be any bent rods if only the pump timing was out.


Lynall