79 109 hartop camper build .

and made a bracket to site and support the diesel heater under the seat box. and routed the wire loom

It took ages to strip the old underseal from the inner wings, some of it was stuck fast but lots of it was just hanging in there waiting to trap moisture .. It did preserve things really well though . where the sealer was sound the metal was as good as the day it left the factory. I just wanted to make it look clean and easy to keep . will hammer on the clear waxoil once its all built up . The road dirt sticks to it but its still another layer of weather proofing.. Plan is to use this old heap as a daily.. Fortunately I dont do many miles, just hacked off at paying £350 a year for a worthless piece of junk daily driver that sits most of the time on an unadopted private access .. Plus it was a squeeze to get it through its last MOT and now it needs rear pads .. next stop, the scrappy

Collected the bulkhead today along with the spare carrier and the front panel .. all good , just a small repair on the front panel and a couple of unexpected frayed edges on the bulkhead . Otherwise its all good and solid with no real big surprises . Will start the repairs on Tuesday . haope to get it done and coated and onthe chassis come Wednesday .

Ordered up the seals , just bit the bullet and ordered them all on line and dumped it on paypal .. will worry about paying it next month LOL..

Out of curiosity first thing I did was tried the diesel heater on the bulkhead where the matrix and blower are usually situated.. It would be a good place to put it , fits really well and probably cleans up the bulkhead a fair bit . It would be easy to route the heat to the cab from there and divert air to the screen. I might just keep the heater situated where I have it now and fit the heater fuel tank on the bulkhead ?

Regarding the heater , I have lost the chinglese instructions , I seem to remember that the pump has to be mounted at an angle , ? next question, on the base, which port is the exhaust ?

Basically the fuel line from the tank has to run down hill all the way to the pump.
The pump must then start the uphill rout to the burner. As long as the intake on the pump is slightly lower than it’s outflow then all should be well.
I simply T’d into the heaps fuel line on top of the tank. Then used the gearbox cross member to mount the pump. It’s downhill from the tank to the pump then uphill from there to under the passenger seatbox.
Having the pump below the heater is one of the issues I’m having with the trailer. It would be nice not to have yet another hole through the bed to attract moisture and rot so I’m thinking of raising the heater a tad so the pump can stay inside. I just hope I can diffuse the constant ticking from the pump. I don’t mind a grandfather clock, but a diesel pump.......

Oh, and the intake is the port with a little valve thing inside. The valve is adjustable to regulate air intake but is set at the factory so best not to mess with it. It’s used to balance the burn for emissions.

Anyway it’s all about air bubbles. The flow is so light that it won’t push an air lock out. It’s imperative you go completely downhill from the tank then completely uphill from the pump. It’s why the fuel inlet is on the bottom of the burner.

Cheers for that info, I lost the instructions but remembered there was something to do with flow and angles. That clears it up .

Well, as usual the best laid plans never really work out got most of the fiddly wee frayed edges thrown up by blasting the bulkhead sorted .. Flipping that big panel every which way to gat access is a struggle in a tight space .. Just got 2 small areas to weld in on Thursday and that's it done. A little finish off with the grinder and a tap with the body hammer will see it ready for seam sealer prior to coating . Its unlikely to be coated on Thursday as the sealer takes a day or so to cure enough before painting over. Boxing day is looking good.. Got most of the seals and stuff delivered . Ordered up a new exhaust pipe and fuel filter for the cab heater since I cant find the original..

Just looking through old posts and realised I have owned the landy project for 10 weeks now. Dont know where the times went . looking back its come a long way in a relatively short time period . Probably the best thing with any project is to keep at it and get it done. Looking forward to getting back together and in one piece..

It gives hope to people on forums that things can be done. Are you itching to get back onto fords ?

glad you are enjoying it. Makes good reading. Keep up the good work

Im trying to focus on the Landy untill its pretty much ready for the road . If Im honest Im keen to get back to the Ford Roadster as there is a bit of cash tied up in that, but im also thinking about looking for another landrover, probably a short wheelbase project. But will wait and see what unfolds

got a bit more done today prep wise ..

I should have posted more pics but hopefully if nothing else , the build might show some sort of procedure , viz, assessment, plan , strip, but being aware you might need to roll it back and forward , make use of the space you have , and stage things so your not left with stuff scattered everywhers and several jobs going on at the same time .. Its went fairly well so far. I manage around 4 to 5 hours a day which includes some work after tea. usually a couple of hours between 7 and 11.. Just keeping things ticking over and moving forward at a steady rate .. Even getting bits cleaned and painted and put away for when they are needed is progress that will save time later . I tend to do that stuff when Im skint . lol..

back in the shed today, got a wee bit side tracked last couple of days . getting through the stack of bits that were piled in the corner and started to loosely assemble the body . Given the limited space in the shed I have to coat stuff in stages . last stage was the floor panels, body sill panels and outer body sills, 4regardless of temperature, the bed liner stuff seems to dry pretty fast, usually tacky in an hour and hard enough to handle confidently the next day .

Ive got a growing pile of parts to be done in black bed liner coating including the upper and lower dash panels , pedal boxes, battery tray, and selected areas of the chassis as an additional impact protection ..

Stripped the underside of the deluxe bonnet ready to be cleaned up for coating, and have a couple of small repairs to the front panel before coating that inside.. also have a few small brackets and the bonnet to bulkhead drip rail and that should conclude all the protective coating.

It kinda sounds as thought the whole motor has been bodged up with the bed liner coating, but its so expensive ive reserved it for areas that are mostly unseen and areas where rust seems to be a problem like door frames and bulkhead panels.. and wipe clean areas under the bonnet. It also provides a small level of sound deadening, but less so than the massively heavy bitumen based underseal that was stuck to most of it previously .. Whether it provides a good resistance to dirt and rust remains to be seen but overall it looks pretty tidy applied to the backside of every panel and coating the bulkhead and engine bay . Im actually pretty happy with the finish. Remebering that its not a concourse resto, but a good clean reliable and useable rebuild

Had a good look at the back door, on close inspection, the heated rear window is knackered, the wiper motor is buggered, and the door frame lower and a good part ot the uprights are rotten and have been badly repaired with over pieces that have rusted through as well. So given the time it will take to repair and prep the door and replace the heated glass and wiper it was more economical to opt for a new rear door and delete the wiper and heated screen at the same time ..That will also save time on paint prep.. With the plan being to add window tint film to the rear door glass and side windows ( as security, not to pimp it ) plain glass will be an advantage and deleting the wiper will be one less thing to go wrong.

Revisited the diesel heater fitment again. With the front wings and bulkhead loosely fitted to the chassis its a no brainer to fit the diesel heater where the old fan and matrix were located . Fits there great and can utilise the original air intake on the front wing. Plan is to run the exhaust from the heater to its own little silencer , and splice it into the land rover exhaust so the gasses exit the landy tailpipe .. The diesel fuel tank can mount on the front inner wing making filling easier and cleaner. Well thats the plan.. Wednesday will be dedicated to more prep on the bonnet , and painting up small brackets and throttle lincage , cleaning up door latches and catches basically prepping stuff in readiness for use ..

When the body is pretty much back together at the start of the year, the next bigish job is to remove the rear bulkhead and fit a bulkhead support bar. Ive looked at the price of them and decided that I will probably make my own version from box section. Just deciding if I should do it in ali box or good old steel .. most likely be the cheep and cheerful option, but with the roof conversion looming and the need to build a support structure for that im keeping a full alloy frame work in mind, so might make sense doing the bulkhead support in ali and tying everything in .. Will give it some thought ..

Got all the door catches and locks cleaned up and ready to go back in, throttle mech and pedal assembly painted , various brackets cleaned and painted, rear door hinges stripped cleaned and re assembled, made a couple of brackets for the front wing to bulkhead mounts, then found the originals , got the bonnet sanded down, Wasnt intending to bare metal it but the brown paint that looked brushed on was just a light coat over the green paint, which was brushed on heavily, so that was knocked down to the original green, which is just a wash of colour lol, so its ended up pretty much bare metaled ... Got an email to say the back door wont be here untill next week, so a wee delay there , which knock onto the bonnet prep. When you mix the bed liner stuff you need to use it all , so plan was to do the underside of the hood, inside of the back door, and a couple of other panels to finnish the mix.. i but plenty other stuff to take care of . Ony got one tin left so might mix it black and do all the black parts so thay will be ready when required ..

Plan now to make the mounts for the diesel heater to mount on the bulkhead in place of the factory heater parts and probably prime up the outer surfaces of the bonnet, wings , doors and bed sides and give the primer a good while to cure before putting any colour near it .. Oh and repair the front panel.. and have a look at a design for the bulkhead support before I jump in there ..

will get some pics up soon..

couple of pics..

Cleaned up the front bumper tonight. It looked kinda scabbie with the military additions and the flakey silver paint and it weighed a ton.. It will need a straighten up anf a few dents pressed out but its saveable and useable .

With the lockdowns in full swing will get back in the garage on Friday and over the weekend and try to get some more stuff prepped up in advance of re assembly

Will keep at it knocking more jobs off the list . Sorry for the crap pictures its a big car in a small space ..

Happy new year folks,

Found a camper style interior that looks pretty decent and functional , kinda looks similar style and material wise to the set up in my VW camper so I should manage to cobble something similar together. .



and the VW. Poor old thing never turned a wheel in 2020. This was my last big resto, owned it for 9 years now , Started with an £800 "bargain" Great thing is Its always been a local registered vehicle , and funny enough the reg plates are pretty much the only original part left on it ..lol Ive been asked loads of times why its fitted with the scabby old plates , It just seemed right to re fit them . Took about 2 years to restore, needed everything and it was a hard slog . Its just a coincidence that both the VW and the Landy will be blue and white .

Just looking at the VW pic and noticed it must have been taken really early doors as there isnt a hob fitted.. Broke my heart to cut the hole for the hob in the solid wood worktop

Fairly coming on now! Way ahead of me.... What was the coloured underbody coating you used?

Thanks for your support .. the coating is the same as Upol Raptor but half the price . Its a 2 k product with separate measure tins so no worries re getting the mix wrong, then. Just add 10% 2k paint colour of your choice and shake it well for a few minutes . I get it from a local paint supplier but its probably available on line . Will nip out to the garage and get the name of it for you .

It can be brushed, or rolled, or sprayed with a common body schutz gun . I used the schutz gun at 30 psi with the flow fairly low.. Because its a usable vehicle Im really happy with the result. I would draw the line doing the entire body with it but I can see the practicalities of that if the vehicle was a mudder or hard used off road..

Thanks, I think it would be good to use on the underside of my tub, as it would preserve it a bit longer. After doing all this work, I want it to last! Might even provide some sound deadening effect too.

The stuff I use is called Pro XL Tough OX

https://www.pro-xl.co.uk/homepage/toughox/

They demonstrate it on the tail lift and use primer but its fine to use it to clean degreased metal .

Thanks for the link. Looks perfect for the tub and inner front wings. I will see if I can get it locally first.