L322 5.0 Supercharged 2010/2011??

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Sorry all.
Has anyone had one/driven one/had problems with one (that must be a yes).
But is there anything other than cost of fuel to make you run away (any more than any L322)???
Cheers.
 
I don't think the 5.0 is much more of a complication than earlier incarnations of the breed.

I believe it's quite a step up on the original 4.2, which I've driven and felt it could do with more cubes, and I was right, they upped the cubeage!!!;)

If the engine (Jag/Ford) went bang (unlikely) then it may cost twice as much to replace than a mere 4.4 (Bmw)
There was, I think, an issue with the timing chain stretching, culminating in it catching on the timing cover causing a noise at worst.

The gearbox(6 speed, I believe) is beefier than the early 5 speed, and won't suffer if the TC pukes it's guts, unlike the the TD6.

Some minor box issues like a leaky loom seal, but we have a box guru on here (Bemble) who is the God of ZF boxes new and old.

It's still just an L322, with a better box, with a better looking interior, and with a more stonking engine than the ok 4.2.

Pay according to condition and your wallet, this forum needs more supercharged beasties.

@youmitegetian paid around a grand for moon mile 4.2 S/C, but I think you'll be North of ten times that for a 5.0.
 
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Many thanks.
I also think it brings no more issues than a more humble L322.
I am going to keep an eye on the market...
 
I bought one a year ago, 2010 S/c autobiography on 51,000 miles, obvious advice buy one with full L/r S/H, there is a timing chain guide issue rather than a timing chain issue, there is a range of engines between engine numbers (that I've got somewhere) that were fitted with guides from a particular manufacturer which can wear prematurely, this loosens the chain, skips a tooth and bang goes the engine, that said I know of two 5.0 S/C engines that this has happened to and both had only 2 litres of oil in the sump so the most likely cause was low pressure on the tensioner causing the chain to skip a tooth. There is no dip stick on these engines and the oil level check has to be done 10 mins after the engine has been turned off when hot, so make sure you check the oil regularly, they are quite heavy on discs and pads it is a heavy car after all, I have nothing go wrong in the 5,000 miles I've done, only usual wear and tear, brakes etc, the parts are quite pricey but you know it will be when you go for one of these. I put mine on LPG, there are many that wouldn't but I have 6 vehicles on LPG and with my own tank and a qualified fitter of LPG systems it was an obvious choice for me, if you get one you wont stop smiling and you wont resist sticking your foot down to feel the fantastic power it holds, oh and the Sat nav (hard drive type on my 2010) can only be updated to 2015 which I did and it's not at all up to date map wise.
 
"There is no dip stick on these engines and the oil level check has to be done 10 mins after the engine has been turned off when hot" Another major advance NOT.
Most people can't be bothered to check the oil with a dip stick having to wait 10 minutes after the engine is switched off to check means almost nobody will bother, too busy.
 
many thanks...
this dry sump stuff for checking oil level is really not grwat....agreed..
thanks again.
 
Maybe a small price to pay for such a lovely motor? Only sure way to tell the level for sure is to drop the oil into a clean container, measure it and put it back!! This really is a backward step for such an important check.
 
I bought one a year ago, 2010 S/c autobiography on 51,000 miles, obvious advice buy one with full L/r S/H, there is a timing chain guide issue rather than a timing chain issue, there is a range of engines between engine numbers (that I've got somewhere) that were fitted with guides from a particular manufacturer which can wear prematurely, this loosens the chain, skips a tooth and bang goes the engine, that said I know of two 5.0 S/C engines that this has happened to and both had only 2 litres of oil in the sump so the most likely cause was low pressure on the tensioner causing the chain to skip a tooth. There is no dip stick on these engines and the oil level check has to be done 10 mins after the engine has been turned off when hot, so make sure you check the oil regularly, they are quite heavy on discs and pads it is a heavy car after all, I have nothing go wrong in the 5,000 miles I've done, only usual wear and tear, brakes etc, the parts are quite pricey but you know it will be when you go for one of these. I put mine on LPG, there are many that wouldn't but I have 6 vehicles on LPG and with my own tank and a qualified fitter of LPG systems it was an obvious choice for me, if you get one you wont stop smiling and you wont resist sticking your foot down to feel the fantastic power it holds, oh and the Sat nav (hard drive type on my 2010) can only be updated to 2015 which I did and it's not at all up to date map wise.

I know this is an old post but do you have the engine numbers you mention above please. Pick up my SC tomorrow and want to check this out before it becomes a problem and get fixed as needed.

Thanks
Tim
 
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