4.6 vs 2.5 tdi

Mazzamark · May 25, 2015

Hi I live in Portugal where prices are crazy but condition of vehicles are good esp chassis, rust etc.
I'm looking at either a 4.6 1996 ish RR or a 2.5 tdi from the same age. What are the pitfalls etc. Ive had a 110 defender from 1997 300 tdi so was happy working with that but no experience with the v8.

I'm not worried about mpg as i wont be going far!

Thanks in advance,

Mark

xs2man · May 25, 2015

I personally would always go for the V8 in the Range Rover. Mostly because the V8 is slow enough. I cannot imagine how frustrating it must be in the tdi with such a small amount of power. Even the L322 diesels I drove were pitiful in this respect.

quavey · May 25, 2015

Bear in mind that the P38 diesel is NOT a landrover engine, its a BMW M51 2.5 Straight 6 diesel so nothing like your 200/300tdi engines.

I would always go for a V8, a range rover isnt a range rover without a petrol v8 IMHO

martynv8 · May 25, 2015

The 2.5 is vastly underpowered & you have to work it hard, not the refined drive you expect of a RR. The 4.6 is worlds apart. Whilst the rover V8 is a pretty simple engine to work on they do come with their own issues (liner problems)

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2015

But the bmw 2.5 will keep up with a 4.0 ltr , you don't get the V8 rumble but when you are giving it a bit of stick the spooling up of the turbo is something to be appreciated. IMO.

xs2man · May 25, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
But the bmw 2.5 will keep up with a 4.0 ltr , you don't get the V8 rumble but when you are giving it a bit of stick the spooling up of the turbo is something to be appreciated. IMO.

There is still 40 BHP between them. Not a huge amount, on a near 3 ton truck, granted, but still a good 30-40% increase in power. I doubt the 2.5 will keep up with the 4.0 to be honest.

Mazzamark · May 25, 2015

Ahhhh thanks, I wondered which engine it was, I assumed it was the 300 tdi as they used the 200tdi on earlier models. 4.6 it is then, I just need a reply, buying and selling is horrible in Portugal, buyers cant buy and sellers don't seem to want to sell even if the 4.6 is 5k euros, it looks very clean though and you don't even need to look underneath here as there is no road salt, I always do though,just out of habit!

Mazzamark · May 25, 2015

How does the 4wd work on a RR, is it permanent as I dont see a lever like the defender, sorry its probably been mentioned loads, i'll have a search now!

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2015

xs2man said:
There is still 40 BHP between them. Not a huge amount, on a near 3 ton truck, granted, but still a good 30-40% increase in power. I doubt the 2.5 will keep up with the 4.0 to be honest.

Get it chipped and it increases the power by 25% and improves MPG. My friend had a 4.0 and tried to leave me behind on a run. I was on his bumper all the way. I am being honest.

martynv8 · May 25, 2015

xs2man said:
There is still 40 BHP between them. Not a huge amount, on a near 3 ton truck, granted, but still a good 30-40% increase in power. I doubt the 2.5 will keep up with the 4.0 to be honest.

A chipped 2.5 may have a chance with a 4.0 gems, but I doubt a Thor.
It would no doubt trash the gearbox before it got too far anyway.

tomcat59alan · May 25, 2015

martynv8 said:
A chipped 2.5 may have a chance with a 4.0 gems, but I doubt a Thor.
It would no doubt trash the gearbox before it got too far anyway.

Unless it's manual like mine and yes it is chipped.

quavey · May 25, 2015

Mazzamark said:
How does the 4wd work on a RR, is it permanent as I dont see a lever like the defender, sorry its probably been mentioned loads, i'll have a search now!

When you say 4wd, on a P38 it is permanent through LSD's (there is no locking diff on them as standard). There is traction control which works quite well, on the rear wheels only up to a certain date ( I think MY99, when it became 4 wheel TC)

As for low range and as you are looking at a 4.6 it will be automatic, they have a H pattern gate, with the pass through in the neutral position. At walking pace or below you can move the gearstick to the left into the low range side a small motor changes into low range for you and away you go.

If you do go for a diesel, and its a manual there is a button on the dash to change from high range to low range. Same applies, neutral at walking pace or below and hit the button. If you are travelling to fast in either it will bleat at you through the onboard message system.

Mazzamark · May 25, 2015

Thanks quavey, exactly the info I was searching for.

This is the one i'm looking at viewing

http://saomartinhodesardoura.olx.pt/range-rover-4-6-v8-iid-460423453

Mazzamark · May 25, 2015

Bloody hell!!! I might have changed my mind, this beast is no defender!!

newrremedies

SpiggyTopes · May 26, 2015

What year is it?

Front indicators have been changed - probably should be orange as it has the older fog lights. Make sure it is not because of an accident.

GEMS engine.

SpiggyTopes · May 26, 2015

Oh, and 2,300 Euros to convert it to lpg .....

SpiggyTopes · May 26, 2015

Nice wheels (most in Portugal are 16 inch).

Check that the air suspension is working ... looks a bit high at the front?

quavey · May 26, 2015

Mazzamark said:
Bloody hell!!! I might have changed my mind, this beast is no defender!!

newrremedies

They are 1000 times better than a defender!

Datatek · May 26, 2015

Diesel every time, no dropped liners, power is more than adequate and can run on SVO in an emergency. Centre diff is locked by a viscous coupling, check it's not seized or it will blow diffs.

wammers · May 26, 2015

xs2man said:
I personally would always go for the V8 in the Range Rover. Mostly because the V8 is slow enough. I cannot imagine how frustrating it must be in the tdi with such a small amount of power. Even the L322 diesels I drove were pitiful in this respect.

They must have been totally knackered then. How fast do you want to drive on todays crowded roads?

4.6 vs 2.5 tdi

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