4.6 GEMS is it worth me buying a Nanocom now

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cljcars

Active Member
Posts
328
Hi All, I have managed to accumulate a few faults now on the RR that might warrant buying a Nanocom.

ABS Relay went and now I can't find any problems now replaced but the lights flash when applying the brakes for a second?

I believe my Lambdas are not reading? Bigas lpg software doesn't show them reading (might be a LPG ECU problem) But worth checking its not running on default map?

Little book is showing on the HVAC and my blend motor isnt working on drivrs side after I moved it to take Matrix out?

Only have 1 key that is falling apart, (glued together by previous owner). need another key can I use the nanocom to code it?

The ECU's in under the seats have on them, Checked for water "wet" dried tested ok 2008? Scary.

What do you think chaps, buy one? will it save me enough money in garage bills if I sort the above problems out myself (come on need an excuse) For me the brake issue confirms it, but nice to have an little push?

Cheers
 
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Do you know who fitted the BiGas system?

On my BiGas system (full sequential) it doesn't need to be connected up to the Lambdas to work properly because it takes it's gas injector timings from the petrol injector timings.

The Lambda connection is only for monitoring on the software, so it might be that they're not connected at all. If they're not, it's quite correct.

Check it before you do battle with your O2 sensors.
 
No Idea who fitted it, just know it seems to work fine. But after I rebuilt the engine I noticed (after battery had been disconnected for a few months) it didn't run to well on gas. Connected the BIgas software and checked the settings, all seemed OK, but Lambdas where not registering a value (they did at one point when I first serviced the system 6 months ago). Checked the wiring out and couldn't find anything wrong anywhere. Ran a calibration which made things worse (Needed fine tuning I guess). So I loaded an old saved map from when I first bought the RR and it sorted it out. I am just wondering really why they where reading and now nothing. I understand they are not needed to run the LPG just a question mark as to what has changed. Tinjpetrol is high on tickover because of this I think, which would suggest Lambdas not functioning!

I believe the RR Lambdas can sometimes cause problems with LPG ECU's. so thought I best leave alone until I had a way to test them (and lazy multimeter has no batteries)

Would be nice to know Lambdas are working or not though?

I think I will buy one, the HVAC being stuck on hot is enough really
 
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If you order a new key that is bar coded to your Becm ecu etc the hand book tells you how to synchronize the new key via the door lock.
I am sure the nanocom wont unlock the Becm.
 
Ok so the key is a no go.

I will be happy if I can sort the heating/aircon and reset the suspension height.

Getting some blocks made up to set it up to standard, so I have ordered the nanocom anyway.

It tends to sit low at the back drivers side most of the time. I know the chap who had her before me changed all the airbags and refurbed the pump and valve block.

Anyone know if you can stop the mirrors going down when in reverse?
 
cljcars said:
Ok so the key is a no go.

I will be happy if I can sort the heating/aircon and reset the suspension height.

Getting some blocks made up to set it up to standard, so I have ordered the nanocom anyway.

It tends to sit low at the back drivers side most of the time. I know the chap who had her before me changed all the airbags and refurbed the pump and valve block.

Anyone know if you can stop the mirrors going down when in reverse?
Click to expand...

You do not need blocks to set up the heights, you can do it with a tape measure or a stick suitably marked up:)
 
Nanocom arrived. Updated it, brilliant.

Lambdas are reading and its running as it should. Reset adaptive values, working well.

Found a whole host of problems with the hevac which I will post separately if I can't find any info.

The height sensors had registered left rear out of range. Something to sort out here too.
 
Your right, mirrors are fixed to lower when in reverse.

Just a shame they go down to far, bad neck when going backwards.
 
This is from my owners manual.....

To disable the dip function:
Turn the starter switch to position ’I’ or ’II’ (do
not start the engine) and select reverse gear.
Press and hold the seat MEMORY STORE
switch for 2 seconds, the message centre
displays ’MIRROR DIP OFF’ and a tone
sounds.

To restore the dip function:
Turn the starter switch to position ’I’ or ’II’ (do
not start the engine), and select reverse gear.
Press and hold the MEMORY STORE switch
for 2 seconds and the message centre briefly
displays the message ’MIRROR DIP ON’
(returning the mirrors to either the factory or
your own pre-set positions).
NOTE: The mirror dip function can be
individually disabled or restored for each seat
memory position (1 and 2). Select the
appropriate memory before disabling or
restoring the function.

Also, if you think they're going down too far when you go in to reverse, you can change that too.....

Automatic dipping for reverse gear selection
The mirror memory has a pre-stored function
which causes the mirrors to dip automatically
whenever reverse gear is selected. If
necessary the ’dipped’ mirror positions can be
altered as follows:
1. Turn the starter switch to position ’I’ or ’II’
(do not start the engine).
2. Select reverse gear.
3. Adjust either or both mirrors to the
desired positions.
4. Press the seat MEMORY STORE switch
together with either switch 1 or 2
(whichever corresponds with the driver’s
seat memory) for 2 seconds (the message
centre displays ’MIRROR DIP STORE’).
NOTE: The right-hand exterior driving mirror
is convex and objects in this mirror are closer
than they appear.

Is there nothing these cars can't do!
 
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Well MrGorsky, I wish I had a manual (i might have read it).

Thankyou, you have, if it works saved me from twisting my spine everytime I reverse.

Cheers
 
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