torque them standard and use the engineering blue- strip after a turn and decide looking at the blue
4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)
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torque them standard and use the engineering blue- strip after a turn and decide looking at the blue
fett
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yeah ok, gotta get some blue.
These be up to spec for the nuts if need be?
1x 7/16" UNF all metal philidas lock nuts (UN75) | eBay
These be up to spec for the nuts if need be?
1x 7/16" UNF all metal philidas lock nuts (UN75) | eBay
jamesmartin
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try nuts at std torque check bearing cap fit ie you tighten both nuts then slacken one nut should be no gap on loose nut side ,fit bearings torque nuts then slacken one ,measure gap , use bore comparitor to check for roundness when caps are torqued
bollocks. std don't fall off at 55. same size bolt thread ffs. just loctite nuts.
if the caps have distorted it will need boring, torque to standard recommended and blue/ bore comp will give idea of distortion.
distorted cap will shorten engine life
fett
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yeah its the bore comparator I need, as they are done up now with the crank out so I can measure vertical ad horizontal when I get one.
if they are out then it needs boring but if they are not out then is the block twisted?
efi, ai not drag stripping it but do want this rare engine to last as its cost loads, if I did the lower torque setting as it is and loctited those nuts on would it last 100k or more?
if they are out then it needs boring but if they are not out then is the block twisted?
efi, ai not drag stripping it but do want this rare engine to last as its cost loads, if I did the lower torque setting as it is and loctited those nuts on would it last 100k or more?
fett
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ahh fanny said my concearn, also will the bearing get an even oil film if its out some?
keep nipping it down gradually. you,ll get more torque on the arp bolts coz they're stronger.
must blue bearings...this to check if caps or bearings have distorted by doing up to 110...
if they have then you will have to get line bored to correct and then torque to 110..or junk it..(not an option)
if they are good..ie similar 360 degree then do up to less than 110..80 was suggested by arp in that artical i thinks?
though i would imagine stanard lr torque would be fine..it is an lr!..it should make no difference if using studs or bolts...
i would use metal locking nuts with threadlock..they will not unwind.
if they have then you will have to get line bored to correct and then torque to 110..or junk it..(not an option)
if they are good..ie similar 360 degree then do up to less than 110..80 was suggested by arp in that artical i thinks?
though i would imagine stanard lr torque would be fine..it is an lr!..it should make no difference if using studs or bolts...
i would use metal locking nuts with threadlock..they will not unwind.
won't be distorted if he backs it off.
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fett
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zen, bring comparator, blue, and suitable metal locking nuts 
fett
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this is all new to me, my tolerance is 1mm none of this thou business so
not a fooking clue mate. how long is a piece of string? though i do think it would be fine.
fett
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thanks mate
Blue and check after turning- my and James advice as one.
What you don't want is knocking after a few thousand miles-better to test now.
and caps are made of:focus:
