4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

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ide defo check with a ruler first, if the crank was bent it would show wear all around i would have thought.
if you do it like this, it should hopefully show a gap or 1/more raised ones
 

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I'm coming to this a little late, but this doesn't look like a cross-bolted block?

Only asking as it would possibly affect wear marks on the bearings if the carriers were in any way out of true.

Lead-Indium is the quoted material for bearings on the D1 engines, but some of the pictures look like copper-lead material showing through the tin-lead running in layer on the old bearings. I didn't go right back 50 pages to get all of the history, so apologies if I am getting out of line with what has been said already.

The new bearings do look a little strange in terms of their wear patterns, and if that is only turning by hand, then there is definitely a problem, you shouldn't get anything like that on new stuff, bearing in mind that if the crank hasn't been reground it will be slightly undersize anyway.

I've seen Scania truck engines with 100k+ miles on that have just about gone through the running in layer and starting to run on the copper-lead, so wear rates are quite low on decent sized bearings with good oil filtration. Our son's V8 D2 engine is looking slightly worn, but not showing anything like those pressure marks.

Peter
 
Mark thats just way I was planning and then get the feeler guages out.

Hi lister, yes its an aussie 4.4 motor based on the early 3.5 rv8 so not sure on bearing materials and I agree the wear pattern is odd, the bearings that came out from the previous owner were .10 so the crank muct be .10 ground too.

Blocks not crossbolted,too early (1973) and at first the caps were hard to get on and off after I put the back the first time, but when I took them off again to check the binding the loctite from the studs had gone up the sides and dried on the stud walls, with a bit of a scrape off the go on down the studs easily now
 
OK, I'd be looking at getting those bearing seats scrupulously clean before trying anything else, if you have Loctite on the bearing seat faces and it has gone hard, that will straightaway cause you grief.

Pity you're so far away, could have popped round and had a look ;)

Peter
 
thanks mate, it was on the studs not the seats but I did find one lump of crap, they will deffo get another going over before I try the 2nd set although it wouldnt explain the wear on the orginal running bearings?

If you fancy a day at the seaside gimmi a shout :D
 
I've got a breakdown call this morning, Hanningfield WTW, got problems with some of our DC standby units after a power outage, so that's today gone for a burton.

Peter
 
It serves Chelmsford and surrounding districts.

Our kit looks OK, they are looking for a supply problem now.

Had tranny box 'strange noise' coming off M25 to A12 slip, very high-pitched squealing noise, backed off and it stopped and then nothing afterwards.

Going to drop some oil out and see if there are any metal particles in there, we have a spare LT230 all ready to go with new seals and output shaft bearings if needed.

Peter
 
sounds like you are a well prepared landrover man :D

I have a spare box, jamesmartin has it at the moment and it will be going in with the new engine :)
 
We have two D2 V8's in the family, plus a decent raft of new and used spares to keep us running.

If you keep an eye out, there's loads of relatively expensive parts that you can get for a song, cheap enough to put on the shelf.

We can't afford Genuine LR stuff, but we do buy genuine for critical parts like oil seals etc.

Picked up a brand new D2 fuel pump the other day, £2.20! I felt sorry for the seller, the only other bidder only bid £2, so I paid her £15 for it, still well worth it and my good deed for the day ;) It was genuine LR too, not Britpart.

Peter
 
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