4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

[fett]

dont forget its not at rv8 really though, so the mains have arrows- sure they should face pump end but will check

 

[fett]

well gents, undid the main caps 90ftlbs ARP and RS recommend and did them back up to 55ftlbs for the mains and 70ftlbs for the rear cap which is what it says in the leyland manual and the crank now turns by hand if you push the big end journals round, it takes a little bit to break the suction of the 2 gallons of molly lube I put on it though lol.

What should I do now? write to arp and RS? and is that an easy enough test-ie does it spin easy enough now?

 

[fett]

 

[fett]

Re bored block
skimmed late 10 bolt RV8 heads
Lapped valves
New stem seals
new old stock fedral mogal/AE oversize pistons
New old stock mains, repco ACL duraglide
new old stock vandervell big end shells
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
ARP big end bolts
Clevite cam bearings
camtech cam
Hylift Johnson lifters
JP duplex timing chain and billet gears
High volume oil pump kit
New turners rocker shafts and all steel rocker arms
New old stock water pump
New old stock dizzy drive gear
RS composite headgaskets
Felpro gasket and seal set
RS header gaskets
New old stock 4.4 valley cover.
New old stock 4.4 rear main seal
Rebuilt 2 barrel carb.
Lubes filters permatex and loctite

Not cheap

 

[discomark10]

Glad it turns now... how much was all the rocker kit?

 

[fett]

about £220 I think mate, plus the heads themselves

 

[fett]

that sound about right now for crank turning tightness? how was yours?

 

[discomark10]

Well I had no polish or grind. But It was similar. Ide of liked to replace the rocker assembly but the price and chance of getting trash put me off.

 

[Mr Noisy]

Enjoying that spec list!

 

[fett]

my wallet aint

 

[fett]

Right, finally got 5 mins to take the crank back out and see wtf is going on. heres the pics if the link works lol.

Remember this was with the bearing guard too, so would have shown worse with oil. Also the crank has only been turned by hand a few dozen times.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z425/fett8/bearing rub/21102013956.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z425/fett8/bearing rub/21102013955.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z425/fett8/bearing rub/21102013954.jpg

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z425/fett8/bearing rub/21102013953.jpg

 

[Dr_evil]

link no worky

 

[jamesmartin]

refit caps minus shells, and check for roundness with a bore comparator first

 

[fett]

I always keep a bore comparator in my back pocket james, lol

I dont have one mate, or a clue how to use one if I did- does it look like align boring would fix this or that the cranks bent? or do you think the caps are out of round? I had the crank checked for wear and machine polished when I got it and nothing was mentioned.

 

[discomark10]

do you have a vernier calliper?
did you keep the caps in order?

 

[jamesmartin]

I always keep a bore comparator in my back pocket james, lol

I dont have one mate, or a clue how to use one if I did- does it look like align boring would fix this or that the cranks bent? or do you think the caps are out of round? I had the crank checked for wear and machine polished when I got it and nothing was mentioned.

shells could be poor ,but you need to check before anything else ,comparator is easy enough to use and best method

 

[fett]

caps are in order, te aussies stamp a number and arrow on them which makes it easy lol. Yes I have vernias

 

[fett]

james show me a comparator

 

[jamesmartin]

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...4oDgCg&usg=AFQjCNH0ffrijLQCP4K3yWnDq25RM86VnA

 

[discomark10]

you can measure the holes with a vernier, just make sure its square, and do it a couple times.
measure the thickness of the shells, as jm said they could be bad