OK, latest update (and my very grateful thanks to all for your continued interest, it's becoming a bit like a book!
). The battery arrived yesterday after a problem with the courier which was resolved courteously and immediately when I emailed the CEO ... I can appreciate a parcel being late but what I cannot accept is when the courier blames the customer for "being out" when I was in all day and the door to the house was wide open to allow air to flow! Anyway that's now on charge to make sure it's fully topped up ... man that battery weighs a ton but then more electricity requires more lead.
The spark plugs ... all spark plugs are out and I'm beginning to wonder if I was sold a pup by a pig who misdescribed the car wantonly. It was described as a rough runner but it's a non-runner chucked together in 5 mins! Let me explain but first an easy question if I may ...
Would I be right to assume there should be a cover over the coils/plugs ... I have a couple of locating pins, positioning lip at the top and a hole possibly for a fixing bolt but that's it, the coils are fully exposed!
I can't find a cover on parts websites so I assume it's a dealer and mortgage job? You will also notice a lack of oil around the plug recesses, I will come on to that later.
All plug recesses had oil, some were bathed in the stuff. I've laid them out in the next pic with their coils (the feeler gauges mark No. 1 cylinder, the front right cylinder sitting as the driver).
So who noticed the coil for No.3?
Yeah, not the same. If you are going to use a different (wrong?) coil wouldn't you at least cut the excess of the rubber shield off the bottom! Also the plug in No. 3 was an NGK, all others were Champion. Makes me wonder what the history of No. 3 might hold. Anyway, that's at least one new coil needed but what about the rest? Would being bathed in oil damage a coil. I think in the 'old days' when cars were cars and not computers on wheels some high performance coils were oil filled to aid cooling but probably not to the temperature this oil would have reached in the plug recess and I have no idea of the internal design of such coils. Research on this is confused ... some say oil does not conduct electricity but 'dirty oil' can and others say it can cause plugs to short out. I'm going to replace the plugs anyway (best plugs?) but not sure about the coils, need to find a test for them.
From the point of trying to uncover why it's not starting I looked at the plugs in detail. All plugs bar one had a gap of 40-45 thou which is good but that's the only thing that was! Cylinders 4 and 5 were moderately tight i.e. I had to give my socket drive a slight tug! The rest were either only finger tight or I could undo them by hand with just the leverage of the UJ folded over. Smacks of someone who was working on the car, giving up and then just chucking it back together and makes you wonder what else was "put back" carelessly! One plug was gapped at 32 thou and yes you guessed it, it was the 'rogue' No. 3 cylinder again! All plugs read around 1.5MOhms across the terminal and earth so no obvious fault there but HT can jump where LT can't. Other clues given up by the plugs were ...
No.1 ... Black/Rich and dry (no oil), 'UJ' tightness (see above)
No.2 ... Black/Rich and wet from oil in recess, finger tight
No.3 ... Maybe no colour (difficult to tell because oil from recess has discoloured), finger tight
No.4 ... Dark with no soot and oil from recess, moderately tight
No.5 ... Black/Rich and dry (no oil), moderately tight
No.6 ... Maybe no colour (difficult to tell because oil from recess has discoloured), finger tight
No.7 ... Maybe no colour (difficult to tell because oil from recess has discoloured), finger tight
No.8 ... Black/Rich and wet, 'UJ' tightness (see above)
You can see the amount of oil in some recesses if you notice the dark band on the white porcelain stem. Any ideas where it's come from ... if you look at the left (5-8) bank it's bone dry and while the right (1-4) bank is wet that's mainly from the spillage from the removal of coils and plugs ... above the plug recesses there is very little oil wetness.
I've performed a simplistic test on the coils based on not all 8 will have 'blown' identically. There are 4 terminals to each coil so I thought if I measure the resistance between each terminal (1-2,1-3,1-4, 2-3, 2-4 and 3-4) and see if any vary from the majority. Well they are all the same except ... No.3! 1-2 gave me a reading of around 1.1Kohms for all, 1-4 was around 55Kohms (except No.3 which was 44Kohms) . 2-4 was the same readings and 3-4 was around 13Mohms for all (except, again, No.3 was 15Mohms). The other terminal connects did not produce a reading. I don't know what this proves other than perhaps they are all good or they all have a fault (excluding No.3 from that conclusion!). I will obviously replace No.3 and can then use that as a proven sample to compare against the others. I'm toying with the idea of rigging up an HT test but can't find which of the terminals provide the spark and which provide the signal. My understanding is that the signals use 5 volts whereas I would expect the spark feed to be 12 volts and don't want to feed 12 volts to something that is expecting 5!
The battery benefited from the overnight charge, it is now reading 14.2 volts. I've ordered a compression tester ... can't find my old one and thought I may as well do a test as a car I have no experience of. So when that arrives I will test the cylinders, replace the plugs and coils and try to start her.