300tdi wont turn over

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simonlap

simonlap

Member
Posts
71
Location
West Midlands
I put a 300tdi in my 1958 series 2 in 1992, ran it for two years and then some major works were needed on transmission, gearbox, clutch, etc. Now I have found the time to get all the jobs done but i went to start her yesterday after 8 years and the engine won't turn. I tried a bar and socket on the crank pulley, not even any backlash. I did drive it onto my drive and assumed that diesel fuel being an oil would lubricate the inside of the engine and it would be fine. Not as i thought. Any ideas before I start ripping the engine apart? It was running really sweet before the long rest.
Cheers, Si.
 
i had this on my grandads disco was absolutly fine one morning next would not turn over driving back from shopping the alternator seizes solid and i could not turn the engine at all no matter how hard i tried cut the drive belt off in desperation and it turned freely so first take the rocker cover off and have a look inside
 
this is something that happens , it could be that the head gasket has failed and water has got into the bores ,when you turn it over it cant compress the water and it bends a conrod, locking the engine solid, this has happened to me a couple of times in the workshop, head off ,sump off job, remove bent rod job
 
go nuts, remove glow plugs, stick in fresh derv, check oil and then tow it down the road. Replace glows and see what happens :p

btw, not my fault if you knacker your engine
 
What caused the seizure then ? or :mil21: some feedback rather than asking a question & then leaving no updates to how you have solved the problem.
 
A change of job so the beast is still on the drive, dead as a dead thing. Somehow this year it will get done and I will post back, pics and all.
 
Last year came and went. Yesterday i dragged the dead lump into my garage. Took the front off and just kept going till I reached the crank pulley, the bolt came out but I had top beat the pulley to death to remove it, in doing so i hit the water pump housing so need a new one of those too. Got the cam belt cover off and everything is OK and in place in there. Belt is good and tight, no rust or floating bits. Put crank bolt back in but still cant turn crank even a millimeter. Next thing was I dropped the oil from sump, 5 litres of crystal clear cold water came out first followed by 5 litres of the blackest slimiest sludge you ever saw, looked a bit like a thousand slugs trying to escape through a small hole. The sump filter is covered in the same slime. I can see some surface rust on the bottom of the crank but nothing too bad. It's just locked up solid. Tomorrow I'm going to take out the glow plugs and squirt some spray lube into the cylinders, give it a few hours and try turn the crank again. All of the seals in diffs and transfer will need replacing as will all fluids too.




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Now when I say the injectors are stuck,. they are STUCK. So I got me a slide hammer but the adaptor is M10 to M12, not fitting the injector thread so I have ordered an M14 tap set, going to make me an M10 to M14 adaptor for pulliing the injectors out. I did try towing it down my road in 5th but the wheels were just locking up. It realy is stuck fast. Im sure some spray lube will free it up and then I can put it back together. I cant wait to get it on the road again.
 
Not tried it and just a thought but if you can get the big end caps off the conrods the crank should then turn. you might be able to push/pull on each rod to see which cylinders are seized.
 
I got me a borehole camera from a famous auction website, now as soon as i can get the injectors out it will be a quick look down the bores, if I can get some spray lube in it may well unseize itself. Here's hoping.
 
Coca cola is good for freeing up seized pistons, just pour some down the bores and leave for a few days, it should eat away at any rust ect.

But the bores them self may be pitted if they're that rust.
 
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