300tdi timing hell

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julianf said:
imagine the belt has just snapped and youve done the repairs - you dont know what it was like before, so you just lock the crank, set the cam, and... well, do as i said in my first post

it does not matter what it was like before. just set it from scratch.
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julianf said:
just dont spin the cam or the crank round and round independently. adjust it a tooth or whatever either way, but dont go spinning it 360 degrees.
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right so my fuel injection pin is in my fly wheel pin is in the belt is off so can I now by hand turn the cam without undoing the bolts on its pully wheel one tooth clock wise to line me up the my case mark then put belt on tension turn over twice retention will that work or not
 
note - if the cam line is not spot on, then thats just the way it is - get it to the nearest tooth, and that is as good as you can do without going crazy.

IP to crank timing is, as i understand, the more critical thing anyhow - i mean the cam to the nearest tooth will be fine, but if the line does not exactly line up, well, so be it...
 
Benjaminallen92 said:
right so my fuel injection pin is in my fly wheel pin is in the belt is off so can I now by hand turn the cam without undoing the bolts on its pully wheel one tooth clock wise to line me up the my case mark then put belt on tension turn over twice retention will that work or not
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yes you can turn cam, but why remove belt completely
 
Benjaminallen92 said:
right so my fuel injection pin is in my fly wheel pin is in the belt is off so can I now by hand turn the cam without undoing the bolts on its pully wheel one tooth clock wise to line me up the my case mark then put belt on tension turn over twice retention will that work or not
Click to expand...

do not undo the bolts on the cam
just rotate it the one tooth - again, dont go further - no need to spin it right round, and, indeed, you may well get valve conflict if you do. just move it the toot amount by hand.
 
julianf said:
just dont spin the cam or the crank round and round independently. adjust it a tooth or whatever either way, but dont go spinning it 360 degrees.
Click to expand...
Thank you that was all I wanted to confirm as u can see in pic I’m only tiny bit out on cam I just wanted to make sure that with both pins in it was definitely ok the just move the cam pully by hand that one tooth to get her smack on again with belt off then refit my belt tension it then reassembled thank mate i can do it now that the case thanks mate
 
Ben,

Make sure you set the IP plate to the mid point, ish - or at least check its kind off there.
You want to be able to adjust the IP plate a bit one way or the other as needed, once youve got the whole lot together. It would be a pain to find out someone had somehow had it right at the end of the range, one way or the other, and that you have no adjustment left.... Im not even 100% sure that would ever be the case but just check in case its possible.

Again, dont stress if the marks are not spot on on the cam - just get it to the closest tooth that you can. Dont go undoing the bolts, as that will get you into another complexity, so far as i recall.
 
It might just be your photos, but the timing case looks pretty black - are the seals in evreything more or less ok? I mean theres nothing been dripping out the vent hole in the bottom of the case or anything?
 
julianf said:
It might just be your photos, but the timing case looks pretty black - are the seals in evreything more or less ok? I mean theres nothing been dripping out the vent hole in the bottom of the case or anything?
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Yes mate I no I look a bit dumb about this one tooth out thing but the rest I’m up to speed with I bought the disco 3 weeks ago guy said needs a timing belt on so I pulled it all apart full of oil it was so I’ve done front inner and outer seal new crank pully I’ve put the new idler stud in no issues it’s just been this tooth out stuff that’s past what I knew before your guys help so now I’m gonna try get cam lined up clean all up I’ve cleaned my cover up I recon the crank seal deffo leaked should be good now I hope thing is aswell it did smoke a fair bit and smelt like fuel a fair bit on tick over and when I bought it driving it back it did seem to lack a little bit of power aswell the timing was defo out before I touched it I just want it bang on again
 
So just an update I tried 5 different belt positions at least repeated tensioning process at least 5 times still was out just under a tooth so I finally with it pinned up grabbed the cam and just moved it a fraction to line up belt on pins out turned over retentioned it pins back in bang on now she’s all lined up hope she will start fingers crossed thank you to @julianf and @jamesmartin for your help thank you
 
95AE3EC8-DDFC-48AE-BA42-CC297CBA972D.jpeg
 

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Benjaminallen92 said:
Yes mate I no I look a bit dumb about this one tooth out thing but the rest I’m up to speed with I bought the disco 3 weeks ago guy said needs a timing belt on so I pulled it all apart full of oil it was so I’ve done front inner and outer seal new crank pully I’ve put the new idler stud in no issues it’s just been this tooth out stuff that’s past what I knew before your guys help so now I’m gonna try get cam lined up clean all up I’ve cleaned my cover up I recon the crank seal deffo leaked should be good now I hope thing is aswell it did smoke a fair bit and smelt like fuel a fair bit on tick over and when I bought it driving it back it did seem to lack a little bit of power aswell the timing was defo out before I touched it I just want it bang on again
Click to expand...

Keep the old crank pulley for a while. The crank oil seal has to go in nicely, and a number of people seem to have issues pushing them in square.

I'm not saying you haven't got it sorted, but, just in case, keep the old crank pulley, as it's usefull to use as a drift / spacer to push in the crank seal.

The reason the kits include the crank pulley is because they changed where the lip is on the pulleys from, I think, the idler to the crank, and if you use a new idler design with an old pulley design, the belt wanders off the side. (I mention this for the question of "why change the crank pulley")
 
julianf said:
Keep the old crank pulley for a while. The crank oil seal has to go in nicely, and a number of people seem to have issues pushing them in square.

I'm not saying you haven't got it sorted, but, just in case, keep the old crank pulley, as it's usefull to use as a drift / spacer to push in the crank seal.

The reason the kits include the crank pulley is because they changed where the lip is on the pulleys from, I think, the idler to the crank, and if you use a new idler design with an old pulley design, the belt wanders off the side. (I mention this for the question of "why change the crank pulley")
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Yes I heard of the run off issue I used the old crank gear to gently tap in the new seal until it was home reassembled now next job is PET gasket and pump gasket then I’ll fill coolant and hope she starts fingers crossed thanks
 
just an update reassembled did my housing gallery p gasket been stood 3 weeks turned key first go started burnt off the fuel from my timing trials now doesn’t smoke like it did and pulls like a dream over the moon thanks to everyone for the assistance
 
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