300TDi Swap Over Help

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F

Fishbones78

Member
Posts
28
Location
Oxfordshire, UK
Hello all,
So for the past 2 weeks my 90 has been off of the road. Cruising the M1 before a big bang and a good constant knock. Upon inspection it has eaten the number 1 shell. I have no idea how, but the two nuts securing the big end spun loose. The threads are not stripped. Crankshaft severely scored. New engine as time is against me. Possibly rebuild this in my spare time so I can have myself a mint engine.

I have no idea how this has happened.

Anyway. Picking up a 300TDi Disco Sunday. My 90 is actually a 300Tdi from a 19J conversion. Late F reg. I've tried having a browse around and the seen little advice besides specific parts of the engine in/out process. I am happy to literally tear the engine out of the Disco as it is the common rotten MoT failure type :p 96K on the clock so mileage is fairly low. More importantly though, is not damaging my 90, and doing the job properly.

Is there anything specific I need to watch for? As far as I am concerned:
Disconnect and drain everything.
Undo bellhousing bolts and support gearbox (LT77)
Undo engine mounts and lift. Plan on removing front grille for some clearance.

Never ripped out an engine before. Any pointers appreciated. Would like this done in a few days as I really could do with the car back, insurance alone is costing me £205 a month!

Many Thanks
 
That’s pretty much it! Just remember that the engine sits quite close to the bulkhead so be mindful of that as you lift it clear of the mounts. Other that that, one out, one in. You don’t need to be too precious about the disco (I just cut off everything in the way (including the transmission tunnel) to make the extraction as easy as possible)
I’m sure you will be fine with this but just go steady, concentrate on one thing at a time and enjoy it. A few days for a straight swap should be easily doable! Certainly can’t think of owt that’ll bite you on the arse!!

Let us know how you get on!

Rich
 
Fishbones78 said:
Hello all,
So for the past 2 weeks my 90 has been off of the road. Cruising the M1 before a big bang and a good constant knock. Upon inspection it has eaten the number 1 shell. I have no idea how, but the two nuts securing the big end spun loose. The threads are not stripped. Crankshaft severely scored. New engine as time is against me. Possibly rebuild this in my spare time so I can have myself a mint engine.

I have no idea how this has happened.

Anyway. Picking up a 300TDi Disco Sunday. My 90 is actually a 300Tdi from a 19J conversion. Late F reg. I've tried having a browse around and the seen little advice besides specific parts of the engine in/out process. I am happy to literally tear the engine out of the Disco as it is the common rotten MoT failure type :p 96K on the clock so mileage is fairly low. More importantly though, is not damaging my 90, and doing the job properly.

Is there anything specific I need to watch for? As far as I am concerned:
Disconnect and drain everything.
Undo bellhousing bolts and support gearbox (LT77)
Undo engine mounts and lift. Plan on removing front grille for some clearance.

Never ripped out an engine before. Any pointers appreciated. Would like this done in a few days as I really could do with the car back, insurance alone is costing me £205 a month!

Many Thanks
Click to expand...
Worth chucking a new clutch in while the engine is out, will save you time in the long run.
 
Definitely take the front panel out.
If your transmission tunnel and bulkhead panel will remove easily then do that too, makes bell housing/starter motor Access a doddle.
Mine come out easily because I replaced all the screws and bolts/nuts with stainless steel, I can have those panels and the floor plates out in 20mins or so.
If all the fixings for the above are rusted in then it's a pita to get some of them out and if time is an issue then don't bother.
It just makes the job a pleasure cos the bell housing bolts are in full view, no struggling.
Disconnect battery before doing anything!
 
callisr said:
That’s pretty much it! Just remember that the engine sits quite close to the bulkhead so be mindful of that as you lift it clear of the mounts. Other that that, one out, one in. You don’t need to be too precious about the disco (I just cut off everything in the way (including the transmission tunnel) to make the extraction as easy as possible)
I’m sure you will be fine with this but just go steady, concentrate on one thing at a time and enjoy it. A few days for a straight swap should be easily doable! Certainly can’t think of owt that’ll bite you on the arse!!

Let us know how you get on!

Rich
Click to expand...
Will do. Thanks for the reassurance haha! I do plan on just cutting into the poor disco to get it done as quickly as possible, stealing the transfer box for the 90 too and selling the gearbox. Then I will take it to its death down the local scrappy :(
Kwakerman said:
Worth chucking a new clutch in while the engine is out, will save you time in the long run.
Click to expand...
Good shout. I will do this. I think I heard the forks fail a lot so will replace this too.
Thanks
 
Fishbones78 said:
Will do. Thanks for the reassurance haha! I do plan on just cutting into the poor disco to get it done as quickly as possible, stealing the transfer box for the 90 too and selling the gearbox. Then I will take it to its death down the local scrappy :(

Good shout. I will do this. I think I heard the forks fail a lot so will replace this too.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Yea, if its a keeper just change everything that is inaccessable while you have the opportunity
 
Flossie said:
Definitely take the front panel out.
If your transmission tunnel and bulkhead panel will remove easily then do that too, makes bell housing/starter motor Access a doddle.
Mine come out easily because I replaced all the screws and bolts/nuts with stainless steel, I can have those panels and the floor plates out in 20mins or so.
If all the fixings for the above are rusted in then it's a pita to get some of them out and if time is an issue then don't bother.
It just makes the job a pleasure cos the bell housing bolts are in full view, no struggling.
Disconnect battery before doing anything!
Click to expand...
Okay, will give it a shot. My 90 has been molested a lot by its 14 previous owners (bought it from a friend so wasn't too in on the details when purchasing!) down to the fusebox and everything. I'm trying to revert everything back but it would not surprise me if half of the bolts are missing :')
 
Fishbones78 said:
Will do. Thanks for the reassurance haha! I do plan on just cutting into the poor disco to get it done as quickly as possible, stealing the transfer box for the 90 too and selling the gearbox. Then I will take it to its death down the local scrappy :(

Good shout. I will do this. I think I heard the forks fail a lot so will replace this too.
Thanks
Click to expand...
If you are scrapping it it may be worth pulling the rear half shafts and diff out to keep as spares?.
 
Fishbones78 said:
Are they the same? It has just had rear half shafts, but as you say, may as well keep them. Thanks
Click to expand...
Generally yes, there are 10 spline and 24 spline versions (24 are better) and there are a couple of types of input flange (which are cheap and easy to change) but things can get swapped around over the years so only a physical look can actually prove what you have
 
Kwakerman said:
Generally yes, there are 10 spline and 24 spline versions (24 are better) and there are a couple of types of input flange (which are cheap and easy to change) but things can get swapped around over the years so only a physical look can actually prove what you have
Click to expand...
I have quickly had the rear axle apart to change a leaky seal. I think (from vague memory) they are 10 spline. Already put new Terrafirma flanges on and I think they were the thicker type. Will give the Disco halfshafts etc a look.
Thanks
 
Well. I was let down last weekend. Rang the guy on the viewing day and he said he didn't have the keys, but would get them posted to view Tuesday. Come Tuesday, no keys. Told to view Wednesday, no keys, and so on until Friday. Come Friday I'm told I can 100% view Saturday. I told him 3 weeks ago I'm busy on a Saturday! Enough ranting, bought a different Disco from somebody I know. Reconned 60K miles ago, the quietest Disco I've heard! Like most around the £400 mark, it has failed MOT on rot. Will be pulling engine, t/box and g/box tomorrow. Really hoping for this to be done by Wednesday afternoon! Lucky I have finished college now.

Will let you all know how it goes, thanks for all the help.

Marmaduke said:
@Fishbones78 chop the cat off the discovery exhaust, I usually get sixty quid for them alone and also chop a big hole in the boot floor so you can drain any remaining diesel out :p
Click to expand...
It came with a nice hole already in the boot, torn up by hand because it was so rotten! Will keep the cat seperate then. Thanks.
 
Quick update of anyone is interested.
Got the Disco in the garage today. Gearbox and Transfer box were dropped through the bottom, then hoisted the engine from above. Pulled up the transmission tunnel in the Defender to take a quick look before calling it a day. I must say that the bellhousing bolts are much easier to get to now!
 
So. Got home from work fairly early, and got the engine out of the 90. Lowering the engine back in, the engine has lugs to align the bellhousing and engine. The motor I pulled doesnt have these, and the gearbox doesnt have the holes for them. Am I safe to grind these off, and then it should bolt together nicely?
Thanks
 
Fishbones78 said:
So. Got home from work fairly early, and got the engine out of the 90. Lowering the engine back in, the engine has lugs to align the bellhousing and engine. The motor I pulled doesnt have these, and the gearbox doesnt have the holes for them. Am I safe to grind these off, and then it should bolt together nicely?
Thanks
Click to expand...
From memory it's about four across the bottom that didn't line, I'll be honest I left mine but I know you should drill and tap them to do it properly.
 
Once you're at it, you may consider installing the R380 gearbox. If I am not mistaken you can use your LT77 as a donor to convert it to long stick (and have the levers in the correct positions) and sit the gearbox on the LT77 mounts thus using your existing propshafts and tunnel / floor panels. The engine mounts will have to be relocated though.
 
After a few headaches, the 90 is back on the road. The major problem was temperature, as it kept spiking dangerously high. After a bit of searching about, I put the dark temperature sender into the thermostat housing and now it is fine. The green discovery one over reads on a non disco gauge! The new engine does sound a bit tappy though, even after adjusting tappets.

I would love to fit an R380, especially as I need a new gear box anyway, but money does not permit at the moment!

Thank you once again for everyones help.
 
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