300Tdi revs to the max when starting - and won't settle down

Turboman · Dec 26, 2019

Henry_b said:
Try giving the throttle pedal a few good jabs.

Pull the injectors and 'ave a gander.

Rebuild the IP.

ETC ETC

Don't do that, messing around is a waste of time.
Get it going, as little effort as you need.
Vehicles are made to be driven.

turrican · Dec 26, 2019

I had exactly the same problem with max revs after starting my engine after 2 years. All I needed to do was to pull the throttle cable a few times while the engine was running and it settled down to just an idle.

Henry_b · Dec 26, 2019

Turboman said:
Don't do that, messing around is a waste of time.
Get it going, as little effort as you need.
Vehicles are made to be driven.

I agree.

But this one hasn't been driven for a long while

Turboman · Dec 26, 2019

Henry_b said:
I agree.

But this one hasn't been driven for a long while

All the more reason not to mess around and waste time and money.
One thing when you are 19, you might like working on old Land Rovers.
But the majority of owners of these vehicles are in their 40s, 50s, and 60s.
By which time, working on vehicles is usually a pretty painful experience, and you want to be using them, minimum cost and hassle.
When we had old diesels that hadn't run for years, we used to chain them to the back of a tractor, and tow them up the road, after putting new fuel in, and working all the controls a couple of times. They always start after a mile or two, and all the seized up and knackered stuff starts working after a while.

Turboman · Dec 26, 2019

Henry_b said:
I agree.

But this one hasn't been driven for a long while

Turboman said:
all the seized up and knackered stuff starts working after a while.

Just realised that wasn't entirely clear.

I meant the vehicle will start working again. For the owner, there is only a slow decline into the grave!

Deafening-Defender · Dec 26, 2019

Turboman said:
Just realised that wasn't entirely clear.

I meant the vehicle will start working again. For the owner, there is only a slow decline into the grave!

Hahaha.... that's something to look forward to!

Retroanaconda · Dec 26, 2019

The governor inside the injection pump will have stuck in the start position - which is full throttle to aid engine starting. You’ll need to free it off by either springing the throttle lever a few times or a few very careful and gentle taps with a light hammer somewhere substantial on the casing.

Failing that the IP will need stripping to sort it.

Henry_b · Dec 26, 2019

Turboman said:
All the more reason not to mess around and waste time and money.
One thing when you are 19, you might like working on old Land Rovers.
But the majority of owners of these vehicles are in their 40s, 50s, and 60s.
By which time, working on vehicles is usually a pretty painful experience, and you want to be using them, minimum cost and hassle.
When we had old diesels that hadn't run for years, we used to chain them to the back of a tractor, and tow them up the road, after putting new fuel in, and working all the controls a couple of times. They always start after a mile or two, and all the seized up and knackered stuff starts working after a while.

Yep I agree.

I work mostly in drenched Fields on my back under tractors

Any other time its on concrete, I have invested in some knee protectors though

Deafening-Defender · Dec 27, 2019

Retroanaconda said:
The governor inside the injection pump will have stuck in the start position - which is full throttle to aid engine starting. You’ll need to free it off by either springing the throttle lever a few times or a few very careful and gentle taps with a light hammer somewhere substantial on the casing.

Failing that the IP will need stripping to sort it.

Thanks for the info.

Having moved and rapidly released the throttle lever several times... there's still no change in starting habit (ie it goes to full revs).

As I look at the IP... which bit is the Governor (so I can work out where to hit it)?

Would applying some heat help to ungum the governor mechanism (using an electric heat gun - the sort for melting paint for DIY)? Or could that damage seals etc.?

turrican · Dec 27, 2019

Did you try adjusting the throttle leaver while the engine was running?

Deafening-Defender · Dec 27, 2019

turrican said:
Did you try adjusting the throttle leaver while the engine was running?

I tried from inside the cab... ie by pressing the throttle pedal. But I haven't tried while the engine is running (to be honest, I'm a bit scared letting it run for more than a few seconds... as the timing belt is a good 10 to 11 years old - even though it's probably not run for more than about a 1,000 miles since the belt was replaced, I'm guessing the passing years won't have been too kind to the rubber belt)

Disco1BFG · Dec 27, 2019

Henry_b said:
Is the linkage on the IP free?

Still want to know the answer to this ^^^^

Disco1BFG said:
Where is the throttle quadrant ? - might be worth posting a pic up

Specifically ^^^^ - this could really be something as daft as the throttle cable is seized solid ......

Gmacz said:
Hopefully he got a camera for xmas and we can get some pics, not seen any yet.
Post some pics, makes it easier to diagnose.

&

Deafening-Defender said:
I'll get some photos up tomorrow - when there's some light.

We're still waiting on these piccies

........

landowner · Dec 28, 2019

My mate had this problem and it was crap and corrosion in the injector pump even though it was running every day. Maybe modern fuels don't do the pump any good ?
He had to have the pump overhauled

Disco1BFG · Dec 28, 2019

landowner said:
Maybe modern fuels don't do the pump any good ?

IMO, there is not enough lubricity in modern diesel for a mechanical pump - I have heard that there was too much for the modern rail stuff - so diesel was changed .....

1% Mineral TSO is the suggested replacement.

windy81 · Dec 28, 2019

Resurgam said:
I've been wondering about the legalities of the whole chassis number thing. Can I stamp it onto the new chassis? Would someone buy a second hand chassis with the number ground off or does that just look dodgy?

Disco1BFG said:
IMO, there is not enough lubricity in modern diesel for a mechanical pump - I have heard that there was too much for the modern rail stuff - so diesel was changed .....

1% Mineral TSO is the suggested replacement.

There's an article somewhere that quashed this idea completely

Disco1BFG · Dec 28, 2019

windy81 said:
There's an article somewhere that quashed this idea completely

Ok - But, IMO and IME, it's worth it - the pump is noticeably quieter and my smoke test results are unaffected so I'm gonna keep doing it...

landowner · Dec 28, 2019

I had two spare pumps and they were the same inside, corrosion even though they weren't that old and had been stored well. I use a little oil in with the diesel now just in case, I think they changed it because modern vehicles dont need the pump lubricating

freelance · Dec 28, 2019

Is there a return spring on throttle linkage, and his the linkage free moving ?

Disco1BFG · Dec 28, 2019

freelance said:
Is there a return spring on throttle linkage, and his the linkage free moving ?

+1 - IIRC, you're the fourth person to ask same in this thread

- still no reply

Deafening-Defender · Dec 28, 2019

Disco1BFG said:
+1 - IIRC, you're the fourth person to ask same in this thread - still no reply

Sorry chaps... been stuck in work for past days... so haven't had opportunity to take photos in the daylight. SHould be able to get photos up in a couple of days (hoping to have a day off on 31st and/or 1st). (Do I just click on 'Upload a File' to upload a photo - or do I have to set up an external photo library?)

The throttle linkage seems to be OK (to my untrained eye). I've pinged it a few times and it seems to return to position OK.

300Tdi revs to the max when starting - and won't settle down

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