300tdi need help hopefully posted in right area now

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Turboman said:
Well, I would say it could be OK, if you approach with care.
If it was me, in your situation, I would be taking someone that is experienced with such vehicles along to give it a once over.
And listen to what they have said^^^^^^. Disco 1s are one of the rustiest vehicles ever made.
And it is highly likely that you will spend more on repairs and maintenance in the first year as you spend on the vehicle.
The cambelt is important, if it breaks, it can cause expensive damage. So you need to know when it was changed, or get it changed straight away.
Also, as a novice, why do you think a lift kit and mods are needed? A standard Disco is an excellent off roader, cheaper to insure, and easier to maintain and order parts for.
If it was me, I would be looking for a clean standard vehicle, that had been owned by an old couple, and used for towing their caravan once a year.
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Couldn't agree more!
 
kevstar said:
How do pal...
Get the cam belt done yourself & get the modified pully kit with the lip on the pully, dont take anyones
word saying it will be fine for another 20k unless its got a garage receipt. Fitting a lift kit changes the way they drive I have castor corrected arms & angled poly bushes to bring everything back into line.
lifting it & then going off road so youl need to consider wide angle propshafts & a fuel tank guard
as the disco's ar$e always takes a smacking.

What mx bike ye got Ive got a kx500. ;)
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Okay because he’s given me a cam belt if and when I get it I will get it replaced. So are you saying don’t buy it with a lift kit on ?
Nice I want a 2 stroke use to have a 125 and 85. I own a 2020 yzf250 now and do races but nothing beats the two stroke so looking for a nice one don’t think I could hack the 500 but would love to try one absolute beast
 
Stanleysteamer said:
From what you say i get the feeling you think a cam belt is like an auxiliary belt and you can carry one as a spare to change when the other one goes!:oops::oops::oops::oops:
Nope, you must change it before it goes else it'll feck your engine. valves hitting pistons, con rods bent etc etc.
OUCH!
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Nah I know that it’s not just like a quick fix when it goes. How do you know when it’s time for a change as I don’t wanna change it straight away if it doesn’t need it. Cheers though
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Halfords professional is a good start, but others will pop on with their favourites. I still have some 1/2" drive Kamasa stuff I bought in 1980 and it is still going strong, but I have been buying tools for so long i really daren't bang on about them!
but a good long breaker bar and a decent torque wrench will be necessary.
also strong jack and good highish axle-stands.
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Perfect sounds good. I mean I’m hoping to learn a few things as at the moment I’m sure you can all tell I don’t know too much but hey got to start somewhere
 
Harry121 said:
Nah I know that it’s not just like a quick fix when it goes. How do you know when it’s time for a change as I don’t wanna change it straight away if it doesn’t need it. Cheers though
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Look at the mileage the manufacturer says, then halve it!
(It says that in the Haynes manual, I think!) My manual is in another room but I have a feeling it is every 80k but my memory may be wrong. TBH, just change it and note the mileage at which it was done.
Quick tip for servicing, photocopy the page in Haynes that gives what to do at each service, a few times, then tick the boxes on a sheet as you do stuff and write the mileage at the top of the sheet. Keep them all together and you have a service history. you can even write tips on it like which size spanner to use etc.
 
Stanleysteamer said:
Look at the mileage the manufacturer says, then halve it!
(It says that in the Haynes manual, I think!) My manual is in another room but I have a feeling it is every 80k but my memory may be wrong. TBH, just change it and note the mileage at which it was done.
Quick tip for servicing, photocopy the page in Haynes that gives what to do at each service, a few times, then tick the boxes on a sheet as you do stuff and write the mileage at the top of the sheet. Keep them all together and you have a service history. you can even write tips on it like which size spanner to use etc.
Click to expand...

okay that makes sense. Yea I do that with my bike to be honest make notes on what I have done at what times it’s handy to refer to. Sorry for boring you
 
Harry121 said:
Perfect sounds good. I mean I’m hoping to learn a few things as at the moment I’m sure you can all tell I don’t know too much but hey got to start somewhere
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I started on bikes too so you soon get an idea of how to strip down and rebuild an engine, but diesel is quite a lot different from petrol and bits on a Landy are a feck sight heavier than on a bike!
and so are all the transmission bits. Get a Haynes and read it cover to cover! Without running screaming out of the room!
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I started on bikes too so you soon get an idea of how to strip down and rebuild an engine, but diesel is quite a lot different from petrol and bits on a Landy are a feck sight heavier than on a bike!
and so are all the transmission bits. Get a Haynes and read it cover to cover! Without running screaming out of the room!
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Yea exactly that bikes are light and easy and I’m not too fussed if I make mistakes. But hopefully will learn
 
Harry121 said:
Okay because he’s given me a cam belt if and when I get it I will get it replaced. So are you saying don’t buy it with a lift kit on ?
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I think what he is saying is that a standard vehicle is a steep learning curve if you have never had one before.
So it follows that it might be best to get used to that first, and then get used to the other steep learning curve of modifications.
Although in fact, after a few years you will probably realise that you don't need the modifications anyway.
I have been driving Land Rovers for 35 years, a lot of it off road, or towing, with my work.
And I have never lifted one. What is more useful is locking axle diffs.
 
Turboman said:
I think what he is saying is that a standard vehicle is a steep learning curve if you have never had one before.
So it follows that it might be best to get used to that first, and then get used to the other steep learning curve of modifications.
Although in fact, after a few years you will probably realise that you don't need the modifications anyway.
I have been driving Land Rovers for 35 years, a lot of it off road, or towing, with my work.
And I have never lifted one. What is more useful is locking axle diffs.
Click to expand...

yea that makes sense I get that. I will bare that in mind
 
Harry121 said:
Okay because he’s given me a cam belt if and when I get it I will get it replaced. So are you saying don’t buy it with a lift kit on ?
Nice I want a 2 stroke use to have a 125 and 85. I own a 2020 yzf250 now and do races but nothing beats the two stroke so looking for a nice one don’t think I could hack the 500 but would love to try one absolute beast
Click to expand...

No just saying they drive a bit different when they are lifted. What make is the belt I only use
Gates timing belts. Nice bike you have btw, im not into racing my mates raced all got some lovely
injurys too. fk that. The 500 is a weapon lol always makes me smile. Not long sold my Ktm sxf350
my my still has his but think he's selling it got a rekluse clutch which I like v-much. :cool:
 
kevstar said:
No just saying they drive a bit different when they are lifted. What make is the belt I only use
Gates timing belts. Nice bike you have btw, im not into racing my mates raced all got some lovely
injurys too. fk that. The 500 is a weapon lol always makes me smile. Not long sold my Ktm sxf350
my my still has his but think he's selling it got a rekluse clutch which I like v-much. :cool:
Click to expand...
Don't really matter if it is reklusive, does it? It isn't supposed to be going out at the moment.
 
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