300tdi lift pump change

hi guys i need some advice on changing the fuel lift pump on my disco 1. i treid turning it over and nothing happened. i know sod all about engines so i called the AA. the guy quickly sorced the problem and removed the lift pump and i told him i would fit the new one because it seemed easy enough. untill i noticed all the new ones require gland nuts and olives and there dont appear to be any old ones on it and i dont know what to do with the new ones when i fit the new lift pump. any help would be extremly apreciated
cheers

Just fitted a new lift pump to my M reg 300tdi.
New pump came with two straight pipes.
Evidently this is standard, some pumps come with the two nuts and olives, some don't.

So have a close look at the old one, you should have two nuts , one on each pipe, if you look inside the open end of the nut you should see a copper coloured ring, looks like a fat washer, this is the olive.

If you get back to your pump supplier, he should be able to supply new olives. You can cut the old pipes/olives off the old pump and reuse the nuts.
Hope this helps
TH

Also when you re-fit you should be able to feel resistance on the priming lever. If not it's not located on the cam properly. remove the wire from the fuel cut off solenoid (on the back of the injector pump) this just stops the engine firing,then just flick the starter until you can push the pump into place and feen pressure on the priming lever.It may take a few flicks.

cheers guys all sorted appreciate the feed back

Im fitting my new one, but its proving very hard whereever I seem to put the cam, Im not even sure the bolts will meet the holes. I dont want to force it, or should it be quite hard?

PS this may help others https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/23135-300tdi-lift-pump-change/

(Apologies for using an alternative forum, google found it for me )

Fingle said:

Im fitting my new one, but its proving very hard whereever I seem to put the cam, Im not even sure the bolts will meet the holes. I dont want to force it, or should it be quite hard?

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Firstly you should feel the resistance of the spring that keeps the arm touching the cam, secondly there is obviously more resistance when the arm is depressed because then it is actually working the pump. I would try feeling inside, or if you can, maybe with a torch and a mirror, looking inside the hole where the lever goes, to see the cam. Resistance is lower when the cam is away from the arm, about pointing vertically down would do or to the right looking from the front of the engine. You can turn the engine slowly either with a longish bar and a socket on the end of the crankshaft nut, or by putting it in 5th gear and jacking it up so a wheel is off the ground and and turning the wheel. clockwise in both directions makes most sense. Once the cam is away from the lever arm, it should be easier to use the bolts to pull the pump towards the engine block.
And don't believe anyone who says you cannot get the arm in the wrong place. I did, and it cost me a second pump. It IS possible to hook the arm under the cam. So don't do it, just slip the lever arm into the top of the hole then move it down onto the top of the camshaft.

Thanks for your help Stanley, I managed to turn the starter until it found the spot, and its all plumbed in now. By eck it makes a difference !

Fingle said:

Thanks for your help Stanley, I managed to turn the starter until it found the spot, and its all plumbed in now. By eck it makes a difference !

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Brilliant!