300tdi engine rebuild crank locking SOLID

wammers · Feb 17, 2017

martys0uth said:
I'm not saying I'm an expert in engine re builds by far, dad's a lot more knowledgeable than me... But to clarify the head is not on

Going to redouble check the caps when I'm in there tonight but I'm pretty confident they are correct cause they are stamped with numbers

Did the engine turn at all. If it did not turn at all odds on the caps are on wrong and nipping the crank.. Either the wrong way round or on the wrong con rods. The retaining cutouts for the shells should both be at the same side. Not opposite each other.

Saint.V8 · Feb 17, 2017

wammers said:
Come on Ant. Why would you fit head before fitting con rods to crank and ensuring things are free. There are certain ways of doing things you know that.

Come on Tony, you know as well as I do that things that *can* be done will be done....

To the OP - Wammers and me - We is just playin' wiv eachuver - and not in a 'Saville' way mind you

wammers · Feb 17, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
Come on Tony, you know as well as I do that things that *can* be done will be done....

To the OP - Wammers and me - We is just playin' wiv eachuver - and not in a 'Saville' way mind you

Think you need some new nipple clamps Ant. And don't forget to soak the butt plug in Dettol now and again. You don't want a sore ring piece again.

martys0uth · Feb 17, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
Come on Tony, you know as well as I do that things that *can* be done will be done....

To the OP - Wammers and me - We is just playin' wiv eachuver - and not in a 'Saville' way mind you

How you play is no business of mine

I'll check the conrods for the right and look at the cutouts, potentially something that could be causing it

Kwakerman · Feb 17, 2017

I would have thought that a bit of mechanical sympathy would tell you to stop trying to turn it before managing to break a breaker bar! If you are 100 % sure you have got the caps on the correct rod and the right way around then have a look at the shells or measure the crank to make sure no one has done a half arsed crank regrind job and not done all the big end journals. If they have then you may have an oversize pair of shells on a standard size journal? And as said above flood it with oil or assembly lube.

freelance · Feb 17, 2017

Have a good look at new shells versus old, sounds like they are too thick, possibly wrongly supplied !

martys0uth · Feb 17, 2017

freelance said:
Have a good look at new shells versus old, sounds like they are too thick, possibly wrongly supplied !

Used the Existing shells sine there was no wear on them!

freelance · Feb 17, 2017

So have you mixed shells in different rods?

Gmacz · Feb 17, 2017

Loosen the bolts a little and see if it turns.
Did you gap the new rings before fitting.

boguing · Feb 17, 2017

martys0uth said:
Going to redouble check the caps when I'm in there tonight but I'm pretty confident they are correct cause they are stamped with numbers

You may be able to tell which way round the cap is by looking at the numbers - but you may not know which way round the rod is because you've had them out. Normally we make a mark on the rod and cap to get the orientation correct later.

martys0uth · Feb 18, 2017

boguing said:
You may be able to tell which way round the cap is by looking at the numbers - but you may not know which way round the rod is because you've had them out. Normally we make a mark on the rod and cap to get the orientation correct later.

Yeah the Haynes manual said that also, the con rods are marked and manual said to ensure the mark was pointing back towards the gearbox side of the engine IIRC.

Saint.V8 · Feb 18, 2017

I know on the V8 engine the caps have a small mark on them and the rods also have an orientation 'nipple' - does the diesel engine not have similar?

martys0uth · Feb 21, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
I know on the V8 engine the caps have a small mark on them and the rods also have an orientation 'nipple' - does the diesel engine not have similar?

Caps, Shells and rods all have markings to ensure they go on the right way yeah the only thing I can think of is that some shells have been swapped by mistake with a wrong piston as the shells are not numbered like the caps and rods.

the Nipple was pointing in the direction the Haynes had said to put it on this engine

wammers · Feb 21, 2017

martys0uth said:
Caps, Shells and rods all have markings to ensure they go on the right way yeah the only thing I can think of is that some shells have been swapped by mistake with a wrong piston as the shells are not numbered like the caps and rods.

the Nipple was pointing in the direction the Haynes had said to put it on this engine

When you strip anything, you mark each piston with cylinder number and orientation as you remove it. As you remove piston and con rod you replace cap in correct orientation as you go along. If you remove shells to clean you remove them from each con rod or cap one at a time in turn and replace them in same place they came from as you go along. You do NOT remove them all and throw them in a bucket of Paraffin then assemble them willy nilly. They need to go back on the crankpin they have been bearing on. I find it hard to believe the crank pins will be ground to differing sizes. I would think you have assembled the caps the wrong way round on the con rods or mixed caps on con rods. Con rods and caps are machined as a unit the caps only fit one way round and only fit their own con rod. Hope you have learned something from this. Haynes manual is as useful as tits on a Mars bar. Try this http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf

Turboman · Feb 21, 2017

wammers said:
When you strip anything, you mark each piston with cylinder number and orientation as you remove it. As you remove piston and con rod you replace cap in correct orientation as you go along. If you remove shells to clean you remove them from each con rod or cap one at a time in turn and replace them in same place they came from as you go along. You do NOT remove them all and throw them in a bucket of Paraffin then assemble them willy nilly. They need to go back on the crankpin they have been bearing on. I find it hard to believe the crank pins will be ground to differing sizes. I would think you have assembled the caps the wrong way round on the con rods or mixed caps on con rods. Con rods and caps are machined as a unit the caps only fit one way round and only fit their own con rod. Hope you have learned something from this. Haynes manual is as useful as tits on a Mars bar. Try this http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/300Tdi_Overhaul_Manual-Land-Rover.pdf

Yes, been working on landrovers 30 years, I get totally confused about what to do if I look at a Haynes lr manual!

Gmacz · Feb 21, 2017

"Hope you have learned something from this."
I agree with this, if you are buying a 20" breaker bar, get a good quality one.
Cheap breaker bars are not even strong enough to turn over an engine without breaking.

martys0uth · Mar 15, 2017

Long due update sorry for silence, took it all apart again and recleaned, put it back together and it turns over perfectly now, bizzare!!

Thanks for input guys

tottot · Mar 15, 2017

That's weird,and you found nothing out of place?

martys0uth · Mar 16, 2017

tottot said:
That's weird,and you found nothing out of place?

The only thing I found was a little bit of carbon build up I had missed out but that's how it was when it was running maybe rings causing an issue and didn't see it when it was in, other than that I'm completely baffled

tottot · Mar 16, 2017

Well at least it moves now, cheers.

300tdi engine rebuild crank locking SOLID

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