300 TDI sump gasket

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I used the recommended sealant last time and wish i had searched for a gasket first if im honest, keep us informed of how it goes because if it works well i will be ordering one myself.
 
It's got to be worth a try. We removed my dad's sump on his 300tdi, cleaned mating faces perfectly and used RTV silicone, it slowed the leak down but didn't stop it. Maybe because we torqued the bolts up before letting the silicon dry perhaps? I don't know.

Could you use a mixture of both? (Gasket and silicon) It's certainly a dirty messy job that you don't want to do twice. Despite it being easy.
 
gasket isnt needed what is is applying sealant on a clean oil free surface and ensuring the 4 joints 2 for timing case and 2 for rear main cap are completely covered
 
jamesmartin said:
gasket isnt needed what is is applying sealant on a clean oil free surface and ensuring the 4 joints 2 for timing case and 2 for rear main cap are completely covered
Click to expand...
I realise that sealant is the 'book' way of doing it, just wondering if the gasket method is an easier option. I imagine that you would need to use a lower torque on the bolts to prevent distorting the sump flange as there wont be a metal to metal joint.
 
So far on mine wherever I can I have used both sealant and a gasket, with sealant on both faces. All the components I have fitted together like that are oil tight. I haven't had my sump off yet (how can I possibly have had a car for three and a half years and not taken the engine out?) but it's worked on everything else.
 
Kwakerman said:
I realise that sealant is the 'book' way of doing it, just wondering if the gasket method is an easier option. I imagine that you would need to use a lower torque on the bolts to prevent distorting the sump flange as there wont be a metal to metal joint.
Click to expand...
i was thinking of the joints that cross the mating surfaces
 
jamesmartin said:
i was thinking of the joints that cross the mating surfaces
Click to expand...
If I do go the gasket route then I will probably apply some sealant at those points just to stop any capillary leaks along the joint line That said I still have to confirm that the leak is from the sump joint anyway and its a bit nippy at the moment. While I have access to a lift it is away from home and I prefer doing jobs at home as I have all tools etc in easy reach. Prefer that to needing something from home when you have no sump on the engine.
 
For those awaiting an answer 'unfortunately' I have cured my leak. Rather embarrassingly it was just a loose oil filter (genuine LR), been on there 2000+ miles without issue and it then decided it wanted another 1/4 turn and all seems fine. Made sure the original seal from the previous filter wasn't stuck on the thread when I initially fitted it so that wasn't the cause. Wish all fixes were that easy!
 
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