3 Amigo brake light switch replacement Guide

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Hi - I'm new to the forum but I'm having a similar problem. 2005 Freelander, 46,000 miles. Will be driving down the road when the hill descent light, traction control light, and service engine soon light come on and F4 fault flashes and the vehicle slows waaaaay down. I can wait a few minutes, turn it back on and everything is good . . . is this the same problem as you are describing or is it something different? If it is different, does any know what to do to fix it as my mechanic is stuck. Thanks.
 
Hi
I have the centre brake light working but not the other two checked bulbs holders etc all are ok took out the brake switch and cleaned it anyway could it be a joint or something ?and where can I get a schematic diagram.
Thanks
 
jimmmy said:
Hi
I have the centre brake light working but not the other two checked bulbs holders etc all are ok took out the brake switch and cleaned it anyway could it be a joint or something ?and where can I get a schematic diagram.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Search for the rave disk on ere. It's the lr manwell which has all the know how un lectric circuits.
 
Hi All - just bought my first Freelander (other LR ir a RR). I have a problem with the dash board lights coming on when i press brake pedal plus the high level rear brake light is on permanently - does anybody know if this is a similar problem to the one described in this thread?
 
Answered my own question – previous owner had managed to fit a fog lamp bulb into the tail/brake light holder, hence the headlights and dash light operating every time I braked.:)
 
if it is you ABS sensor you will have to know which one it is or it can become costly asume you have the right one more than likely have you had a drive shaft change as this might not be the right distance from the ABS sensor if you get the right one here is what to do to get it out because if it is a older Freelander like mine and the her in doors (we have 2) on the front stub axels take the 2 big bolts out of the top this will allow you to drop it forward after you have taken the shaft nut off there you will see the abs sensor on the left just popping out get a hammer and a drift knock it out avoid hitting the stud axel then put it back together the shaft nut is 295lbs torque and then put a little grease around the sensor but not on the bottom and push it in until it touches the sensor wheel on the shaft and as soon as you move the car this will then go back a little and then you distance is set I have not done the back but asume it is the same on the latter ones you do not have to take the shaft out because these are fastened in with a little bolt . and just to let you know when I got the sensor out it was rusty and i cleaned it too much so I now going to have to get a new stub axel silly me never mind you are always learning hope this is of some help
 
hi all well i had the three amigos on for over a 2 weeks after I replace a abs sensor that had been damaged but it was not that because I replaced it with another thinking that was the problem I had replace the handbrake cables at the same time and on doing so I had lifted the cenre consol and pussed it forward so I could get at them no realising that I had pulled the wires of the gravity switch this is the switch the senses when you put your foot down and also when you brake and it lives under the centre consol in the end I got so uptight about the 3 amigos I took my car (TD4 Auto)to Landrover services in Fenton stoke on Trent and ask them to put there computer on it about £50 and he said strait away that it was this sensor he said they are prone to going so imidiate thinking and yes the wires were off all down to my own fault the switches are about £60 so it saved me that but I hope this is of some use to somebody
 
had a look at my light switch to da managed to get it out had look and didn't think th black plunger bit was too clever ( not returnig very well) anyway going to buy a new one to replace this one , looked fo new switch and found the old style and a newer version , does the newer version and the adapter cable fit just the same ,push in and turn , my freelander is an 03 plate ., another thing came to mind I'm sure i used to could hear the old swich clicking whe i pressed the brake pedal would that be normal . thanks for all your help regards LARMAR :blabla:
 
New switch arrived today, fitted, still had the dreaded 3 , still no brake lights , blown fuse for lights ,changed that, and BINGO ,3 amigos gone brake lights working . What a great post by pecos. this must save people a fortune cost me £21 all in and half hour to fit , Thanks Larmar
 
I bought the switch and loom as shown in the first post, but the original part on my 99 L series is different, so the new part won't fit on the bracket and the wiring is different. Any ideas?
 
had the lights come up on the dash when I braked and slowed down every so often on my 03 FL1. TD4

Fitted the new switch and new connector harness. So far so good and lights havent returned after several weeks now. Maybe it's fixed it.

Trying to fit the switch was a bit of a struggle. Found it hard to turn the thing to secure it in the bracket. Struggled for a while and then all of a sudden it turned really easy as if by magic. Think it had to be aligned to the slot in the pedal bracket absolutely spot on and then turning it while you are standing on your head in the foot well took being flexible to a whole new level.

It would appear that the switch has two blue bits in it that when turned in the bracket, allow the plunger to self calibrate to your foot pedal position. If it isnt turned properly in the bracket, the brake lights dont work.
 
I have just had the stop switch replaced along with the loom part. All ok but I took it back in a couple of days later to get the Hall effect sensor next to it for the pedal position sensor replaced. I was told they should be done as a set and it didn't cost much anyway. Saturday the TC and HDC lights are back on and no brake lights:-( So it was back in this morning and the actuator for the hall effect switch was re-adjusted and all is now ok again. A case of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' I think but e shall see how it goes. Now if I can jusy get the starting problems sorted and the loose exhaust back box and and...
 
I just did this and the HDC warning light is still on.
Could it be that the throttle cable needs tightening ? Where do I do this ?
Is it inside or in the motor ?

All tips needed ! :)
 
Hi Pikey,
All three amigos came on, dont know a thing about cars ( freelander ) took it in to garage specialising in land rovers turned out to be an abs sensor, front offside, this cured the fault for a while then back on, my reasoning is freelanders get a lot of brake dust on the front wheels so cleaning front ones may cure problem, my understanding is the job is easy to do, and a sensor cost is about £14 there are new discs for dust problem about £40 each. hope this helps
 
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