3.5 v8 dies after 10 mins

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
wireman said:
Check your rotor arm, does the brass strip on top move at all? If so replace it. Check your dizzy cap for cracks as well, just because they are new doesn't mean they are serviceable.
Click to expand...
Don't use the type that have the strip riveted to the plastic, use the type that have the strip bonded in.

Cheapie pattern dizzy caps aren't a good idea either - I had to use one a few years ago & had an intermittent misfire which appeared at higher revs & was worse in damp conditions. Cured by replacing it with a decent one.
 
Ratae said:
Don't use the type that have the strip riveted to the plastic, use the type that have the strip bonded in.

Cheapie pattern dizzy caps aren't a good idea either - I had to use one a few years ago & had an intermittent misfire which appeared at higher revs & was worse in damp conditions. Cured by replacing it with a decent one.
Click to expand...
Hi
Yes I will check not sure how it’s causing the problem but I have about three spare new arms and caps from all the changes I’ve kept making to the ignition system hence buying a new complete kit.
 
Hi All
Well today is different altogether. I’ve not swapped over cap or arm yet as I wanted to see how she ran cold and any difference.
Not happy to run when cold so I left her for 5 mins just to get the meddle to move. Off I went and a little ruff if you put your foot down at 2000rpm it climbed a little but struggled and died so switched off and then switched straight back on to see it if would start straight away and she did. Then something strange she kept running and the longer the journey and still running, however not very well .
At low throttle everything seemed ok but any more than 2000rpm and climbing not much power and a little ruff.
When I got game to check temps everything was fairly normal 60-80’s under the hood and everything else at 80-90’s the hot stuff, water temp gauge sat in the middle and pipe temp confirmed that. Oil temp gauge was touching the red although checked engine block and sump no great temps over 90.
Sat there whilst checking temps she did then stall and was hard to start but did if you feathered the throttle?
So ran for longer but not very well on the power front.
If I was a teenager I think I would be cutting myself
 
Shippers said:
Have you double checked timing?...when it stalls I would pull plugs and see if they're wet or dry...
Click to expand...
Yes I had the timing done two nights ago by my mate as when I fitted the new dizzy I did it by ear and just wanted it to be perfect although when he checked it I wasn’t far off. I will check the plugs also I want to check the plugs leads with an inline light indicator just to see that it is firing correctly and not losing a spark and of course I brought the gadget so I want to use it lol
 
I think you maybe need to started checking everything again.
As above start with a look at the plugs color, are they correct/good?
Ruff running when cold and hot, fueling/timing/vacuum hoses?
Not being able to stamp on the loud pedal, again fueling/timing.
Vacuum advance? New dizzy and hose looks good in your pics, and same problem with old dizzy.
Coil? Believe you said new so unlikely.

You need to check all the electrical connections are good/clean.

Most off that is really thinking out loud let’s see the plugs:)

J
 
marjon said:
I think you maybe need to started checking everything again.
As above start with a look at the plugs color, are they correct/good?
Ruff running when cold and hot, fueling/timing/vacuum hoses?
Not being able to stamp on the loud pedal, again fueling/timing.
Vacuum advance? New dizzy and hose looks good in your pics, and same problem with old dizzy.
Coil? Believe you said new so unlikely.

You need to check all the electrical connections are good/clean.

Most off that is really thinking out loud let’s see the plugs:)

J
Click to expand...
Thank you mate I will check today the plugs. However working away from sat for a couple of weeks and then revisit the Landy so I will keep you update
Thanks to everyone thus far it’s been a great support
 
Muddy goose said:
Hi Yes I’m using NGK always have done with rover v8’s.
I cleaned them to do the test regarding the plugs being wet or dry after running however it won’t run at all at the moment it keeps cutting out ☹️
Click to expand...
The P6B engine plugs in my Landy are a shorter reach than in the TVR's I have. I used BP5HS in the Landy (P6B auto engine with SU's similar to yours) and BPR6ES in the TVR's. Not sure if it would make a difference but they are about £15 for 8. As I understand you'd need SD1 heads to use the longer plugs.
 
FFG said:
The P6B engine plugs in my Landy are a shorter reach than in the TVR's I have. I used BP5HS in the Landy (P6B auto engine with SU's similar to yours) and BPR6ES in the TVR's. Not sure if it would make a difference but they are about £15 for 8. As I understand you'd need SD1 heads to use the longer plugs.
Click to expand...

My 101 had long reach plugs fitted by PO and ran ok...when I changed them found they were the wrong ones and sods law the last one snapped in the head as it had been tightens down and had locked against the inside locking the threads...
 
Hi Guys
Sorry for the long delay. Working and I wanted to test another thing engine bay temps.
So for the last few weekends I’ve been wrapping the manifolds ffs that was a mission in itself left hand wing completely off and drivers side inner, starter motor and prop shaft and then learning the art of fibreglass wrapping. Well after all that started her up warning up nicely all going well, temps well down so very pleased and no it stopped restarted run lovely then stopped just like you’ve turned the key off ‍♂️
Right checked plugs and just soot not surprised as not gone for a run.
So just to recap runs very well especially after fitting electronic dizzy runs for a short period shorter if you bring the revs up and then just dies.
My next move is a new set of carbs as it’s the only bit that’s not new I refurbished them myself
If anyone has any more ideas and yes I’ve made lots of upgrades and changes for the better with all the help on here I just haven’t got to the finish line yet
 
81F7C0D9-0D35-4AD0-9A9C-9C5A143D81AD.jpeg

Shippers said:
Have you double checked timing?...when it stalls I would pull plugs and see if they're wet or dry...
Click to expand...
Shippers
Sorry for delay they are dry mate just a bit black from only running a short period
 
That is some nice wrapping:)

Sounds now like an electrical breakdown.
I think your carbs are good, we’ll enough to run and shouldn’t just cut out and restart if they were the problem.(as we have been over the fuel issue:)) SUs are pretty bulletproof if clean and setup even close.

Still can’t get away from “new coil and dis it’s got to be ok” needs a test sorry:eek: and wiring to.
Got anything to swap it with?

J
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

H
V8 down on power
Replies
3
Views
259
discool
discool
T
TD5 crank no start after overheating
Replies
1
Views
568
tom1979
tom1979
cappers
3.5 hotwire efi won't start - solved, poor connection to coil -ve!
Replies
14
Views
2K
AllanWorms
AllanWorms
C
Starting problem
2
Replies
22
Views
735
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
R
2000 Thor 4.6 fuel/starting problems
Replies
5
Views
526
richardtamps
R
Back
Top