3.5 v8 dies after 10 mins

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marjon said:
Ok some thoughts.
You had a decent run with no issues, possibly because you have that extra filter, more volume at the carb which may help.

“Coughing and spluttering more throttle seems to keep it going ruff but still dies” could point to fuel or elec. component breaking down.
Because it drove ok but last stopped on idle (in garage) no load or much fuel use at this point.

Under bonnet heat.


Good idea ^^^ take a passenger who can see the fuel filter.
I have seen a few cars with the back end of the bonnet raised to leave a gap to get hot air out. Not sure if that’s possible.

Also maybe block 1 of the return fuel lines, with 2 you have halved the return restriction at the carbs, although if I remember they do both go to the same line further on. Original set up was 1in 1 out although 2 in seems fine maybe 2 out is not.

Is the coil on the bulkhead? Move it somewhere cooler?

Just some thought while having a cuppa out of the sun:)

J
Click to expand...
Yes my thoughts as well when I set up the viewing filter so when I can I will get a mate to watch as we can slide the bonnet off it’s hinges, a reason why I couldn’t raise it at the back however I could do the side vents on side or just vent the rear like a modem day car.
Or indeed as before use the tread plate on the middle and instead of the front raise bringing air in raise it at the back cut out the square panel that way you couldn’t see any body work changes and it would suck hot air out when on the move. The coil was on the inner wing over the manifold, yes I’ve put shields on but when I did the electronic dizzy etc I put the coil further forward in front of the steering pump reservoir still got hot air from the rad though
 
Ok. Try with the fans permanently on this may cool the engine bay down.
I know it’s all wrapped but under the bonnet may not have good air flow.
 
Hicap phill said:
Ok. Try with the fans permanently on this may cool the engine bay down.
I know it’s all wrapped but under the bonnet may not have good air flow.
Click to expand...

As I said before take bonnet off and take it for a Good Blast not a trundle around really give it some welly...it's a V8 get it motoring that's what they like...
 
Hicap phill said:
Ok. Try with the fans permanently on this may cool the engine bay down.
I know it’s all wrapped but under the bonnet may not have good air flow.
Click to expand...
Hi Yes I agree it’s not good under the bonnet the whole front is filled with an aly rad with twin fans continuing blowing at 70-85 degrees hot air when up to running temp, the whole engine running at the same temp couple that with the headers. Yes I have now wrapped them and made proper heat shields which if I now point my temp gun in that area it’s 60 degrees so a massive improvement, yet again prompted by you guys and looking to overcome this weird problem. However when sitting on drive and dying when the bay is not that warm and if it is upto temp and I’m driving I would hope this is the best time for air to be moving and taking away the build up of heat? The only escape I assume is under the car and down the Gearbox tunnel?(makes for a warm cabin) I’ve now also put heat mat on the bulkhead to protect the fuse box on the other side and wiring just Incase the heat is changing resistance to anything. Not got hold of a sparks yet to check system, I did check one thing though my alternator does run hot I’ve seen it at 100 degrees in the centre I think I mentioned before. I checked the wife’s 200 Tdi and it was more than half the temp or is this just because it’s a diesel?
Well I’m still forever in hope
D54D6DCF-3357-44E6-8B53-16656525EBAE.jpeg
 
Muddy goose said:
Hi Yes I agree it’s not good under the bonnet the whole front is filled with an aly rad with twin fans continuing blowing at 70-85 degrees hot air when up to running temp
Click to expand...

Question: Why do u have the fans cutting-in at running temperature, it’s when the temperature is in excess of normal running temperature by a degree or two that the fan or fans cut-in.

I have a car with a single Kenlow fan fitted and the only time that fan cuts-in is in a stationary traffic as the engine then is few degrees hotter than normal, much the same as modern vehicles with a factory fitted electric fan.
The Kenlow fan installation guide has information on temperature setting how to.
 
discool said:
Question: Why do u have the fans cutting-in at running temperature, it’s when the temperature is in excess of normal running temperature by a degree or two that the fan or fans cut-in.

I have a car with a single Kenlow fan fitted and the only time that fan cuts-in is in a stationary traffic as the engine then is few degrees hotter than normal, much the same as modern vehicles with a factory fitted electric fan.
The Kenlow fan installation guide has information on temperature setting how to.
Click to expand...

My 101 is the same fan cuts in when idleing for seconda then on switch off runs for maybe 20 seconds...think it's around 90 degrees when it cuts in...it's a kenlow with sensor in pipe work at raw has an adjustable temp control and a lit overide switch in cab...as I haven't been able to legal road run it yet only on my land doubt it will come on at all...at idle for 30mins or so at our air temp of 30-40 degrees it's hardly on but of course the 101 engine bay is very open...
 
discool said:
Question: Why do u have the fans cutting-in at running temperature, it’s when the temperature is in excess of normal running temperature by a degree or two that the fan or fans cut-in.

I have a car with a single Kenlow fan fitted and the only time that fan cuts-in is in a stationary traffic as the engine then is few degrees hotter than normal, much the same as modern vehicles with a factory fitted electric fan.
The Kenlow fan installation guide has information on temperature setting how to.
Click to expand...
Hi
As I said before I find if the fans cut in just before they stay on top of the temp keeping it under control. I found if they come on at the running temp the system is always behind itself and runs a little hot that was the only reason
 
Shippers said:
My 101 is the same fan cuts in when idleing for seconda then on switch off runs for maybe 20 seconds...think it's around 90 degrees when it cuts in...it's a kenlow with sensor in pipe work at raw has an adjustable temp control and a lit overide switch in cab...as I haven't been able to legal road run it yet only on my land doubt it will come on at all...at idle for 30mins or so at our air temp of 30-40 degrees it's hardly on but of course the 101 engine bay is very open...
Click to expand...
Hi
Yes it’s all rather tight in this engine bay. Also I’m using a P6 10.5 high compression v8 and I believe they run a little hotter than the 9.35cr so that wouldn’t help add to that headman headers hence wrapping them and making the heat shields now and just to say this is an old photo all the changes we’ve been deciding on have been done
A1D36270-FCF8-4CF2-A6B4-49237AEAFF9C.jpeg
 
marjon said:
How can you forget your birthday (unless the number is getting to high:))

Nothing wrong with having a relax/party now and again hope it was a good one:)

Oh and happy birthday I guess:)

J
Click to expand...
Cheers dude yes 50th no need to remember from 45 lol. Well still all as was, however I do have an auto sparks coming now on Monday so not long to wait now I hope
 
Right Guys I have some news!
Had the auto sparks out (yes it didn’t stop working, took for a trip and no issues go figure) then after 10 mins running on the drive she stopped so he checked my wiring no worries there and hot wired but still having issues so not electrics. If you remember I put a clear plastic filter on at top to confirm fuel and when scratching our heads he spotted very fine bubbles in the filter so I removed everything and refitted regulator straight onto copper fuel line and clamped with correct fuel pipe clamp not jubilee clip Solved! went for test drive no issues so after all that it appears that it was simply an air leak on fuel side but strangely not enough for us to notice. I can now almost put that down to when I changed from a leaking glass filter to an enclosed one last year. So glad I put the clear filter up top for viewing reasons.
So in conclusion this was clearly my landrover wanting me to complete all those little jobs that get put off when a rebuild nears the end but drives lol. Also if you need to sort out a fuel problem it’s the sparks not the carb man silly me.
Thanks again to all you guys it’s kept me sane and persistent to finding the problem which without you all I probably would of got rid and never spoke of it again
Cheers
Nick
 
Well I hope that’s it for your woes:)

I am still a bit confused about that as the reason:cool: but hey everyday a school day.

But get out and enjoy it before it throws its next hissyfit:)

Glad your sorted and you stuck with it.

J
 
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