L322 2nd opinion on Ball joint costs

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Big Fuz

Big Fuz

Member
Posts
34
Location
N. Ireland
Hi folks, I'm looking a 2nd opinion on my latest bill for mot failure repairs. Failures were:
1. Suspension ball joint, movement excessive; Offside front;foremost outer CHECK OTHER BALL JOINTS AFTER REPAIR

2. Brake pipes corroded ; nearside rear to FLEXI

3. Drive shaft gaiter ; loosing grease ; Offside front outer

(Do a guesstimate in your head before reading on)

I took it too an indie (in Northern Ireland) and he advised it best to replace both ball joints together after having striped it that far. I agreed thinking 2 ball joints wouldn't be that expensive.

Only checking the invoice now ( I was in a hurry when picking up as my daughter had car trouble and needed me right away) I see they have charged me for arm assembly L 169.24 RBJ500820G £49 and front suspension arm L162.87 LR018344M £52 ball joint assemble £9.90 I thought just 2 x ball joints required.

Brake pipes were just cleaned and painted

Gaiter kit was £23 but he has also replaced the bearing L.52.96 at £55

Opinions please on what this would or should cost in an average indie and how many hours labour and rate. I know these machines are probably more costly to maintain, and I accept that as the driving enjoyment makes up for it, but was shocked to say the least at a £600 bill for what seemed a simple mot failure. Basically looking advice on costs - if this is reasonable or do I change garage.. Thanks
2005 L322 Vogue Auto 4.4 V8 petrol (jag engine)
 
I bought aftermarket upper and lower control arms, lower balljoints, inner and outer track rods and antiroll bar drop links for our L322 (2002) (for both sides) and I think all that was about £250.

I then spent a day (about 8 hours) removing and fitting it all - outside - on my own - and battering out the old balljoints using a large hammer and drift.....

Lets say an indy charges £50 an hour - that's £400, and then parts at £250 so that totals £650......

An Indy would have access to a ramp and perhaps a better method of getting the old ball joints out - so maybe that would save and hour or two .....at the most!

So I would say £500-650 would be reasonable I'd guess...depending on how stubborn the bolts are and how much battering the lower ball joints will take to get out!
 
Saint.V8 said:
I bought aftermarket upper and lower control arms, lower balljoints, inner and outer track rods and antiroll bar drop links for our L322 (2002) (for both sides) and I think all that was about £250.

I then spent a day (about 8 hours) removing and fitting it all - outside - on my own - and battering out the old balljoints using a large hammer and drift.....

Lets say an indy charges £50 an hour - that's £400, and then parts at £250 so that totals £650......

An Indy would have access to a ramp and perhaps a better method of getting the old ball joints out - so maybe that would save and hour or two .....at the most!

So I would say £500-650 would be reasonable I'd guess...depending on how stubborn the bolts are and how much battering the lower ball joints will take to get out!
Click to expand...
Thanks for that Saint V8 I was wondering if both arms were necessary as I watch videos were ball joint alone was changed, and would a new bearing be required when changing a gaiter. Cheers
 
It is always best practise to change suspension, steering and brake components in axle sets i.e. do the same on the other side....

It is possible to just change lower ball joint, but the other ball joint is part of the arm.
upload_2019-1-4_20-48-8.png


Are you talking about wheel bearing?

To replace the driveshaft gaiter, you need to pull the hub assembly apart and that takes some time.....
 
Saint.V8 said:
It is always best practise to change suspension, steering and brake components in axle sets i.e. do the same on the other side....

It is possible to just change lower ball joint, but the other ball joint is part of the arm.
View attachment 166454

Are you talking about wheel bearing?

To replace the driveshaft gaiter, you need to pull the hub assembly apart and that takes some time.....
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Saint V8 Yes wheel bearing. I think it was more my preconceived notion that a couple of ball joints would be £10 each not £110 and £20 for a gaiter and not £80. The indie has a good rep and the staff are great, so from what you've said I think I'll put this one down to my naivety. Does concern me though for future repairs if that was, what I would class as, a handy job. Ah well mot in the morning will hopefully cheer me up with a pass. Thanks
 
I was in Kwikfit the yesterday getting tyres for the company van.....

They tested a 55 honda crv , failed...(obviously it failed its kwikfit, everything fails). First they skinned the guy for 1l oil as they said oil level was low so couldn't mot it.

It failed on
3 antiroll bar links
3 suspension bushes
headlight pattern.
emissions.
Exhaust leak ( that you could hear...like a snapped off pipe)

The kwikfitter waffled the biggest load of ****e about diagnostics for the emissions then totted it up.
Hmm around £1000 but cant guarantee that price as you might need a cat and 2 headlights on top of that.

Feck me I almost fell off the seat!!!

Lucky you didn't go to Kwikfit....
 
Big Fuz said:
Thanks for that Saint V8 Yes wheel bearing. I think it was more my preconceived notion that a couple of ball joints would be £10 each not £110 and £20 for a gaiter and not £80. The indie has a good rep and the staff are great, so from what you've said I think I'll put this one down to my naivety. Does concern me though for future repairs if that was, what I would class as, a handy job. Ah well mot in the morning will hopefully cheer me up with a pass. Thanks
Click to expand...

The steepest learning curve in L322 ownership is maintenance costs. Even more so if you can't do the spannering yourself. Although that only helps a little, as parts costs cannot in any way be compared to any used vehicle owned before. Unless you owned second hand Rolls Royce/Bentley or super cars, as I think they might be the only things that would hurt the wallet more.
 
On some cars it is more economical to change the arm/triangle than it is to start pressing out ball joints. Especially the alloy arm sets, that's a no no... I do agree with our guy Saint, I change all ball joints and bushes in pairs as a stronger component can strain an older sibling.. :)
 
Like saint I agree on the axle equality. If one ball joint has failed the other side isn't far behind. getting the tracking set up with two new ball joints will save you on tyre wear and another trip to the garage to get the other side done.

as saint said to get the gaiter on try have to split the joint. It's worth replacing the bearing as you don't know if running it dry or dirt ingress has worn the bearing which will lead it to fail. needing it doing again along with other damage. 400 in labour is pretty fair.

If you want reduce costs get your own nanocom and learn to spanner. I started here as a newbie and am restoring 2 classics, done 1 already and pretty much gone through the P38 front to back including HGs
 
Last edited:
gold rover said:
The steepest learning curve in L322 ownership is maintenance costs. Even more so if you can't do the spannering yourself. Although that only helps a little, as parts costs cannot in any way be compared to any used vehicle owned before. Unless you owned second hand Rolls Royce/Bentley or super cars, as I think they might be the only things that would hurt the wallet more.
Click to expand...


I knew about the learning curve, just didn't expect it to be this steep. Frustrating thing is, my head is confident about tackling any job on a vehicle, unfortunately my arthritis hinders my ability. Still hooked on my RR (25th wedding anniversary pressie to myself) so still worth holding on to. In the 80's and 90's if I had a problem I'd have repaired my cars and then sold them - basically giving someone else the benefits. Not any more. Cheers
 
ukadamwest said:
Like saint I agree on the axle equality. If one ball joint has failed the other side isn't far behind. getting the tracking set up with two new ball joints will save you on tyre wear and another trip to the garage.

On the fairer as saint said to get the fairer on try have to split the joint. It's worth replacing the bearing as you don't know if running it dry or dirt ingress has worn the bearing which will lead it to fail. needing it doing again along with other damage. 400 in labour is pretty fair.
Click to expand...

Thanks = Think I was used to doing most myself in days gone by. Only started using garages for repairs a few years ago with an XC90 I had before the RR. Not used to labour costs yet. The more I realise it's not a handy job, the more I understand the cost. Cheers
 
After all the heartache buddy, you'll have a lovely bus you'll know all about and can rest assured that the vast amount of parts that have been repaired will put back in good order!
Reliability......hmmm:p
 
Big Fuz said:
Thanks = Think I was used to doing most myself in days gone by. Only started using garages for repairs a few years ago with an XC90 I had before the RR. Not used to labour costs yet. The more I realise it's not a handy job, the more I understand the cost. Cheers
Click to expand...
Ooohh Volvo.... Hmmmm. Nah walk on by!!!
 
Mark Piercy said:
After all the heartache buddy, you'll have a lovely bus you'll know all about and can rest assured that the vast amount of parts that have been repaired will put back in good order!
Reliability......hmmm:p
Click to expand...

Cheers Mark. As a new boy racer in the 80's I went through 4 replacement 2nd hand engines in my HC Viva, That record will take my some time to beat I HOPE and as you say I'll have a good big bus to boot. Ta
 
Never a big Xr3 fan.. the early Cortina and Granada were my favourites. He also had a vauxhall Victor estate. Looked like a whale. But his Wolsey 16/60 ?? Was beautiful, jacked rear end, big fog lamps and a boot rack was all the rage on the late 70's and early 80's... Leather and real wood....:D
 
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