2015 Range Rover SportTDV6 3.0L Diesel Auto Reliability

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jackdev112

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Hi guys,

It's my first post here but I thought this would be the best place to ask.

I am currently looking about buying a range rover, specifically the one in the title.
As many of you will probably had experience with, when you tell someone you're thinking of buying a range rover you always get the same response about how it's going to break and cost a fortune to fix. I was wondering how reliable or unreliable the 2015 range rover sport TDV6 is?

Is it down to people not doing preventative maintenance or are they just generally going to break. I'm looking at ones that have around 50,000-70,000 miles, which for a regular diesel is quite low mileage. I'm just looking to know what I'm getting myself in for.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Hi guys,

It's my first post here but I thought this would be the best place to ask.

I am currently looking about buying a range rover, specifically the one in the title.
As many of you will probably had experience with, when you tell someone you're thinking of buying a range rover you always get the same response about how it's going to break and cost a fortune to fix. I was wondering how reliable or unreliable the 2015 range rover sport TDV6 is?

Is it down to people not doing preventative maintenance or are they just generally going to break. I'm looking at ones that have around 50,000-70,000 miles, which for a regular diesel is quite low mileage. I'm just looking to know what I'm getting myself in for.
Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Look at the J D Power and other surveys, Range Rovers are always near the bottom for reliability and that's in the first 3 years. Always best to have a second car available for when the RR is off the road. If you can't DIY it could turn out to be a money pit.
Having said that, you could be lucky and have no problems.
 
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Look at the J D Power and other surveys, Range Rovers are always near the bottom for reliability and that's in the3 first 3 years. Always best to have a second car available for when the RR is off the road. If you can't DIY it could turn out to be a money pit.
Having said that, you could be lucky and have no problems.
i think a good, well maintained older (5-7 years+) example could be more reliable than a newer one, on the basis the failures have been addressed, parts replaced or upgraded etc. an abused/unmaintained example needs to be left well alone
 
The trick is as above. find a well maintained 1 first and if you then keep up the maintanace it could end up being a reliable car. Start skipping over small problems will only lead to bigger issue down the line. Because of the complexitiy of them a small thing can take a while to find and cost a fair bit if you have to have a garage do it for you.

But I would also add search TDV6/SDV6 crank breakage. Then decide if a different engine option would be better to remove that "if it happens its scrap" thought.

They are a high cost/maintainace car so be prepared. If you are, then they can be reliable IMO.

J
 
Crank issues would stop most people from buying one in the first place.
You would think, wouldnt you. But JLR are still using it all these years later. I guess they have worked out that it will probably get out of the warranty period, then its not thier problem 🤔.

We added a bit to our budget when we brought our L322 to get the 8speed 4.4 TDV8, after alot of research, so far we think it was a dam good choice. (jinxed it now havent I:oops:).

J
 
Is there a more reliable version without these issues such as 2.0 evoque or velar?
For me the car is too big for a 2.0, which also have issues, but then many modern (big cars do) mainly because the owners dont really need such a car.

What do you intend to use it for? Driving to school and the shops will give problems.

J
 
What do you class as modern?

or is it the modern drivers "looking good👍"

J
Euro 6 onwards, so basiclaly 2015 ish onwards, but anything with a dpf would steer me clear, though my main experience is with hgvs.
Even the farmers are trying to avoid the new gear as it is so much bother, I dont think is is the cost though that is certainly an issues, it is the unreliablity that they hate.
 
Avoid anything with "wet cambelt" engines !! My son tells me the number of replacements for those was unbelievable over last few years. Essentially the oil contaminates the belt resulting in de-lamination, tooth sheeding etc. Much more frequent belt changes required, or the engine goes for a very long lunch.
 
Euro 6 onwards, so basiclaly 2015 ish onwards, but anything with a dpf would steer me clear, though my main experience is with hgvs.
Even the farmers are trying to avoid the new gear as it is so much bother, I dont think is is the cost though that is certainly an issues, it is the unreliablity that they hate.

Talking of the newer cars I watched this today , wonder how effective the new JLR update is

Plus the way there stolen is changing so hiding the obd2 port doesn’t seem to work anymore

Really does make owning an older car more attractive, particularly to reduce u getting pulled out the vehicle


 
Avoid anything with "wet cambelt" engines !! My son tells me the number of replacements for those was unbelievable over last few years. Essentially the oil contaminates the belt resulting in de-lamination, tooth sheeding etc. Much more frequent belt changes required, or the engine goes for a very long lunch.
Whilst wet belts in my view are a crap idea, I reckon as most are commercial vehicles they will not get any tlc between services, no one will check the levels, and if they do they will get topped it will be with whatever oil is to hand, the services will be overdue and done on a budget possibly with the incorrect engine oil.

But still it is a crap idea, mind you they cannot even make camchains last these days!
 
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