200tdi timing query.... no adjustment on the pump plate

saxmanuk · Apr 23, 2016

Hi all, been a while since I posted as been really busy with work etc... but now have some time to play with Leaky (as the kids call him )
I have searched this exact query but nothing matches exactly
I changed by timing belt 6 months ago and all has seemed ok..........
Recently decided to change my head casket (due to many small pointers that was leaking a small amount of coolant and after I may have cooked it when a belt broke and I needed to park it up safe!)
Anyway, thought I would double check my timing and I have an issue... I have now bought the right timing tools i.e. flywheel pin and pump pin and have used these to check...
What I have found is this as per piccies:

Pin in place in fly wheel
Crank lined up with arrow
Cam lined up fine (picture at a slight angle but it is)

Pump at maximum adjustment clockwise before I can get the pin in... i.e. The slotted front plate with the 3 10mm bolts loose are at maximum adjustment and I can only just, with a bit of pressure on my 22mm socket on the pump get the pin in, but I can retard the pump all the way to the other side of the plate with loads of adjustment
I would have thought that the ideal plate positon would be in the middle... so I can fine tune, and retard OR advance (which is what I believe is best to fine tune).
Looking at the size of the teeth of the pump, If I remove the belt and move the pump one tooth, it looks like I may go to far retarded?
What advise would you suggest?
Is there another pump position adjustment I don't know about?

Flossie · Apr 23, 2016

Are the three stud holes on the FIP itself not slotted?

saxmanuk · Apr 23, 2016

Flossie said:
Are the three stud holes on the FIP itself not slotted?

Hi. If I understand you correctly the the answer is yes. With the 10mm bolts
lose I can move the FIP anti-clockwise but not clockwise. It's as though I might be one tooth out on the FIP

Flossie · Apr 23, 2016

No, the 3 nuts( 13mm spanner) holding the pump to the rear of the timing case.
If they are loosened, the whole pump itself will turn .

saxmanuk · Apr 23, 2016

saxmanuk said:
Hi. If I understand you correctly the the answer is yes. With the 10mm bolts
lose I can move the FIP anti-clockwise but not clockwise. It's as though I might be one tooth out on the FIP

Ok. That's sounds like a plan. I will check tomoz. Thanks for the advise and reply

jamesmartin · Apr 23, 2016

saxmanuk said:
Hi all, been a while since I posted as been really busy with work etc... but now have some time to play with Leaky (as the kids call him )
I have searched this exact query but nothing matches exactly
I changed by timing belt 6 months ago and all has seemed ok..........
Recently decided to change my head casket (due to many small pointers that was leaking a small amount of coolant and after I may have cooked it when a belt broke and I needed to park it up safe!)
Anyway, thought I would double check my timing and I have an issue... I have now bought the right timing tools i.e. flywheel pin and pump pin and have used these to check...
What I have found is this as per piccies:

Pin in place in fly wheel

Crank lined up with arrow

Cam lined up fine (picture at a slight angle but it is)

Pump at maximum adjustment clockwise before I can get the pin in... i.e. The slotted front plate with the 3 10mm bolts loose are at maximum adjustment and I can only just, with a bit of pressure on my 22mm socket on the pump get the pin in, but I can retard the pump all the way to the other side of the plate with loads of adjustment
I would have thought that the ideal plate positon would be in the middle... so I can fine tune, and retard OR advance (which is what I believe is best to fine tune).
Looking at the size of the teeth of the pump, If I remove the belt and move the pump one tooth, it looks like I may go to far retarded?
What advise would you suggest?
Is there another pump position adjustment I don't know about?

lock belt on cam and crank sprocket loosen belt and move pump pulley round a tooth on the belt so you have more adjustment

saxmanuk · Apr 23, 2016

jamesmartin said:
lock belt on cam and crank sprocket loosen belt and move pump pulley round a tooth on the belt so you have more adjustment

Will that not move it to far the other way James? Previous reply advised that the pump itself can be turned as has slots also?

jamesmartin · Apr 23, 2016

saxmanuk said:
Will that not move it to far the other way James? Previous reply advised that the pump itself can be turned as has slots also?

pump cant be moved, pulley needs moving in relation to the belt so you then have adjustment, pegs are good for trapping belt on the other 2 pulleys whilst you slacken belt

saxmanuk · Apr 23, 2016

jamesmartin said:
pump cant be moved, pulley needs moving in relation to the belt so you then have adjustment, pegs are good for trapping belt on the other 2 pulleys whilst you slacken belt

Ok James. Thanks. Will look at doing that. Cheers

lynall · Apr 23, 2016

I had to do axactly as James says above, my fault as I didnt leave any slack in the set up when I replaced the belt.

saxmanuk · May 10, 2016

Ok. So eventually found time to do this. Did exactly like James suggested and moved the pump gear one tooth clockwise. Can't believe the difference it has made when I advanced the timing a few degrees. Thanks again James

200tdi timing query.... no adjustment on the pump plate

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