200tdi Range Rover

Well I'm back welding tonight. Battery died so I'm afraid you will have to wait until tomorrow for any pictures.


Quick question for you all though. I have a B&W transfer box with a missing front prop. The old prop was removed because of dead UJ's Is there a way of testing the viscose unit before I bolt on the new prop? Also do you change the oil in them? Cheers all [emoji41]

Big lever on the VCU, should move slowly with constant pressure. Try a search, there are more details somewhere.
No way of changing the silicone compound in the VCU unless you want to try following Gaylander ways and drill a hole and drain it. Getting the right grade of silicone to re-fill it will not be easy.

Cheers Datatek I'll have to brows

Right, the sills are finished all bar seam sealer and shutz. Picture's won't load tonight [emoji35]

I hate technology at times [emoji36]

stutab said:

Well I'm back welding tonight. Battery died so I'm afraid you will have to wait until tomorrow for any pictures.


Quick question for you all though. I have a B&W transfer box with a missing front prop. The old prop was removed because of dead UJ's Is there a way of testing the viscose unit before I bolt on the new prop? Also do you change the oil in them? Cheers all [emoji41]

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As Data has said. There is a given load value that should be used. I tested a second hand one that I fitted to mine. I'll see if I still have the info.

Cheers rustystuff

I also rebuilt the front sill end cap and the rear body mount. And in future I must ware better clothing when welding sills



That's going to sting for a bit [emoji22]

Rustystuff said:

As Data has said. There is a given load value that should be used. I tested a second hand one that I fitted to mine. I'll see if I still have the info.

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Personally, I don't worry too much about the load value, as long as it turns it's OK

Hi all

Had a busy day today. I hope (MOT depending) I have finished the welding on the Rangy [emoji41] [emoji2] [emoji12]

With the help of Killajoules I got the rear cross member changed. All I need to do now is shutz it all and put it back together. Oh and give it a service and fix the electricary issues [emoji36] but I have till the 2nd as that's when it's booked in for its MOT [emoji33]











The old cross member came out with ease, it was the consistency of mature cheddar, I still need to sweep it up off the floor [emoji4]. Once the new one was in place it went easily. The boot floor is okay for now but will probably fit a new one within the next couple of years. I am amazed by the solidity of the inner wings so they are getting a coat of shutz before the outer wings go back on. Should be out of the shed by the end of the week [emoji2]

And I got the front prop on, blimey those viscose transfer boxes are stiff to turn. You could see where the original front prop shat had whacked into the chassis when the nose uj finally failed.

KillaJoules said:

And I got the front prop on, blimey those viscose transfer boxes are stiff to turn. You could see where the original front prop shat had whacked into the chassis when the nose uj finally failed.

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If it crabs on full lock viscous is fooked

stutab said:

Cheers rustystuff

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Sorry it's taken so long but here is the Viscous unit test :
Secure the output shaft in a vice, gripping the shaft on the drive shaft splines.
With the unit still installed in the front housing place the assembly on the rear output shaft spline.
Apply a clockwise torque of 27Nm to the output flange nut.

If no resistance to turn is felt the unit requires replacing.

If resistance is to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to output flange nut for one minute. This should result in a rotation of approximately 25 to 30 degrees.

If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing.

Sound like a ball ache but at least you'll now it's ok.

Cheers for that that. I am going to drive it around the yard and see how it feels. Under sealing tonight then rebuild

Progress has been made. I have under sealed all the new bits. When it's on the road I plan on power washing all the underneath and going over the lot on both Rangy's so think the applicator was worth the £7 with postage [emoji4]



Tetra Schutz on the underneath and behind the rear cross member, back of the sills and body mounts and was hoping to put it on the inner wings but did one and ran out so I stone chipped the other inner wing the outside of the sills and the boot floor.













After that Killajoules turned up and we put the lower tailgate and one wing on but my phone died so Killajoules has them pictures

Gettin late when I took this

stutab said:

Cheers for that that. I am going to drive it around the yard and see how it feels. Under sealing tonight then rebuild

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No problem. What makes you think it's knackered ?
I noticed mine was had it when I reversed off some concrete onto gravel and the wheel span a bit...... viscous unit had seized causing wind up.

Rustystuff said:

No problem. What makes you think it's knackered ?
I noticed mine was had it when I reversed off some concrete onto gravel and the wheel span a bit...... viscous unit had seized causing wind up.

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Someone stirring saying that it could be as they are rubbish, not my words so wanted to check it before I did many miles

stutab said:

Someone stirring saying that it could be as they are rubbish, not my words so wanted to check it before I did many miles

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I see.... I would get it on the road in that case and see what you get. As said you will soon notice if it's had it.
They take no time to change if it is, just take the front prop off and unbolt the hosing. You will need to remove the gear box mount as it stops one of the bolts coming out ! Very Land Rover !!

Got a bit further this evening. The o/s wing replaced and started sorting out the lights.

The indicator fuse was missing.

Just need to sort the headlights, we damaged the switch when trying to find out where a wire went

Well it's done. Sort of [emoji12] thanks to the help from Killajoules all the lights finally work. Took a good few hours to get the headlights working. Checked everything twice changed the switch three times then just as we were about to give up and resort to Google and the forum's the started working. While Jue was messing about with that I removed the sheared towbar bolt from the chassis



Nice bit of heat and it punched out. Good tip for you all. To remove shock and the chance of hitting your hand clamp the punch with mole grips



This worked a treat and the bolt was soon out



Unfortunately this is where my phone decided not to take any more pictures [emoji36]
I had to use a air hammer to get the other side out but the towbar is now off and a tank guard is going on ready for the Nationals.

I need to finish and fit the new upper tailgate, put the tunnel cover back on, put the carpets back in, service it and put some fuel in. All by Saturday afternoon, easy [emoji2] Oh I'm out Wednesday night, Thursday night and Saturday morning [emoji33] easy [emoji23]

A @aaqq%quality