200tdi Locked up after rebuild

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Also I wouldn't bother until you've got the flywheel on as it's incredibly easy to be one tooth out using the woodruff key alone. I've got a locking tool and I might have a spare flywheel if you want to borrow owt
 
Marmaduke said:
No, belt off and only turn the crank 360 degrees leaving the camshaft and injection pump lined up
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Well what can I say, spot on, slipped the belt off spun crank 360 degrees belt back on and hey presto it all turns over nicely. just need to wait for the new gaskets to arrive and hopefully that will be the end of that little chapter.

Thank you for all of your help Marmaduke and everyone else who has had input, you are all what makes this place so good.
 
Correct.. but how would that change anything? When the piston/ crank is moving upwards, it doesn't know whether both valves are shut (compression stroke) or the exhaust valve is open (exhaust stroke). Turning the crank 360degrees won't change anything- if the engine is correctly timed up, ie dots aligning, FIP pin in place, arrows pointing to arrows- it's correctly synchronised.
 
I would say something else isn't quite right, eg a sticking valve or the timing originally was a tooth or so out and loosening and refitting the belt 'moved' something. Personally, I wouldn't ever turn the crank with the cam shaft static though..
 
Marmaduke said:
Why did it then?
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it cant off done, as long as key on crank is at 12 oclock before belt fitted nothing else matters, if you remove the belt and turn the crank 360 then refit it its still the same,you only worry about turning engine twice once the belts fitted
 
David_Cooper said:
Personally, I wouldn't ever turn the crank with the cam shaft static though..
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The bottom end has been stripped so there was always going to be the potential for things not going back together as it was originally. It is all turning over as it should now so I am happy at the moment. I dare say next weekend with throw more problems at me though.

The only other thing I can think of is if a push rod hadn't seated correctly?
 
That's possible. Personally, if it's turning over ok now, I'd whip the rocker cover off and very carefully check your gaps and ensure the small caps are correctly seated on the top of the valve stem. If all checks out ok, and you're confident the bottom end is correct, you should be good to go.
 
David_Cooper said:
ensure the small caps are correctly seated on the top of the valve stem. If all checks out ok, and you're confident the bottom end is correct, you should be good to go.
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They are all fitted and still there, I will be checking and triple checking before I fit it and try starting it.
 
ivancrx said:
They are all fitted and still there, I will be checking and triple checking before I fit it and try starting it.
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Just give it a few rotations by hand to check the timing is spot on then put faith in your methodicalness and you'll be fine. I think I've rebuilt three 300's recently and they've always started first time
 
ivancrx said:
Well what can I say, spot on, slipped the belt off spun crank 360 degrees belt back on and hey presto it all turns over nicely. just need to wait for the new gaskets to arrive and hopefully that will be the end of that little chapter.

Thank you for all of your help Marmaduke and everyone else who has had input, you are all what makes this place so good.
Click to expand...

But the head is still off as he has ordered a new H.G. still not convinced
 
I would like to say to all see post number 12:rolleyes: yes its correct 2 turns crank is one turn cam/fip, BUT this only matters when belt is on (as James said above) so one turn of crank cam/fip will be 180 degs out and another turn they all line up again, or to put it another way for the advice given by others to make any sense the op would have had to turn the crank 180 deg then refit the belt.
Turning the crank 360 will logically put it back exactly where it was before Im not sure how anyone can fail to see that?
I think people over think cam/fip/crank alignment.

Back to the op I reckon it might be a good idea to get some plastigauge and see what your piston to valve head clearance is with head torqued up.
 
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