200tdi ladder frame removal

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Any areas were bits have been broken off should be dressed smooth with a file and radius any sharp corners , likewise any cracks in the block should be blended, cut out or stop drilled out if possible. Cracks are stress raisers and the crack may potentially propagate further if you get it running again
 
Blackburn said:
Managed to get No 3 big end cap off today by drilling and tapping for a 5mm bolt in big end cap and rigging a means of shock loading with a hammer.
Had to slacken main bearing caps to get it off last part.

Now need to stand it back up and strip cylinder head and timing case off so I can totally dismantle.
Click to expand...
Makes a smart keyring though, doesn't it?
 
Cut the two conrods today and removed the pistons.
After cleaning all the cuttings refitted crankshaft and checked across the block with straight edge crank would appear to be ok.
Tried to set up dial gauge to check it but could not come up with an accurate way to measure it.
This is the piece cracked of lower skirt of cylinder 4 measures just over 10mm at it's highest point.

Will clean and inspect the cylinder head tomorrow.
The head gasket that was fitted does not have any punch holes in the tab as expected , measured thickness at bore edge and get 1.6mm with vernier caliper , has anyone come across a gasket like that before?
 
T Seal ? refitted crankshaft today had made up a couple of guides to assist fitting luckily I had bought extra seals, Eventually got a set in place but one side seems to have stretched more than the other is this normal.
.
Have tried shining a bright light down the side joint and cannot see any light getting through.
 
Continued with re assembly today got the new rings into the pistons and refitted them ,cleaned the ladder frame ready to refit and started cleaning the Bell housing.
Manual says to fit ladder frame oil pump and sump next, then bell housing but that will mean removing engine from engine stand which way would you recommend.
 
I fitted the sump etc and got the engine ready to go then hung it off an engine crane, fitted the bell housing and clutch etc then slotted it in the car.

I did everything on the engine stand I could, timing belt everything
 
Bloody hell, I didn't realize how cheap engine stands where!
I'm not doing a full rebuild but would definitely have made life much easier, doh! too late now :mad:
 
aaronmorris said:
Bloody hell, I didn't realize how cheap engine stands where!
I'm not doing a full rebuild but would definitely have made life much easier, doh! too late now :mad:
Click to expand...

Lol yeah I was all up for doing it hang off an engine hoist and on pallets etc till a mate 'educated' me on the correct way and pointed out it isn't that much for a generic engine stand
 
flat said:
Lol yeah I was all up for doing it hang off an engine hoist and on pallets etc till a mate 'educated' me on the correct way and pointed out it isn't that much for a generic engine stand
Click to expand...

Yep, hanging on the engine crane is exactly what I'm doing, wish I'd realised sooner :(
 
Quick update have crank refitted along with pistons and new conrods.
Today finished lapping valves in cylinder head ,replaced seals for camshaft ,front crankshaft , put timing casing back on and refitted injector pump.
Hope to get ladder frame back on tomorrow along with timing gears [need to get some meths to clean the gears up].
 
Did a bit digging on the head Gasket issue and found this info in an ebay advert.
Land Rover 200 & 300Tdi Cylinder Head Gasket
1.69mm - No Hole
Reinz replacement cylinder head gasket.
This gasket is the thickest of the available gaskets for 200 & 300 Tdi engines at 1.69mm. This is a no-hole gasket.
This will fit the following vehicles:
Land Rover Defender - 200/300Tdi ('90-'98)
Land Rover Discovery 1 - 200/300Tdi('89-'98)
Range Rover Classic - 200/300Tdi ('92-'94)
These are available in different
thicknesses which we also stock
ERR5261 - 1 Hole, 1.30mm
ERR5262 - 2 Hole, 1.40mm
ERR5263 - 3 Hole, 1.50mm
ERR7154 - No Holes, 1.69mm
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...329326?hash=item5d5f54762e:g:~bMAAOSwcBhWUyLW
My pistons protrude 0.7mm and I have a 1.5mm 3 hole gasket so probably going to fit that one as within tolerance.
 
Fitted timing gears today and refitted old timing belt just so I can understand how to do it .Will fit new one once head bolted down.
Refitted ladder frame and then had a disaster whilst fitting oil pump - socket fell off me extension and fell down into camshaft recess , magnetic pick ups would not get to it kept sticking to metal around it so turned engine on its side and removed lift pump backing plate to recover socket ,sigh of relief when I got it out will probably have to make up another gasket for the lift pump plate but i have some gasket paper.
Day off tomorrow so will get back to it Thursday.
 
As long as the gasket isn't damaged it would be okay - the engine hasnt been run - I took a few bits on and off as I did mine and the gaskets were fine no leaks
 
Have not painted block but has all been cleaned down more interested in seeing it running again rather than appearance. Toying with buying another one once this one running again to overhaul and keep as a spare.Would give it the full works as I would not be rushed .
 
I am 64 next time I have an engine fail might be closer 70 much prefer to be able to lift duff one out and drop spare back in same day.
 
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