200tdi knocking

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Presume rocker shaft is present and correct? Clearances good? Valves valves and not just aimless flappy-up-and-downy-bits (suspect one or more of these and/or its connect-to-the-rest-of-it-bits has gone "a bit off")?
 
Presume rocker shaft is present and correct? Clearances good? Valves valves and not just aimless flappy-up-and-downy-bits (suspect one or more of these and/or its connect-to-the-rest-of-it-bits has gone "a bit off")?
I could re-check clearances I suppose. I'll see what I can get up to this afternoon. I'm fairly convinced it's a knocky injector somewhere
 
Get the job finished and then take it for a drive to get properly warmed up.200's are rather rattly when cold but smooth off as the motor reaches normal operating temp. Some good injector cleaner like 244 could also help.
 
Get the job finished and then take it for a drive to get properly warmed up.200's are rather rattly when cold but smooth off as the motor reaches normal operating temp. Some good injector cleaner like 244 could also help.
It has reached operating temperature, hence the temporary belt. I just don't have the proper pulley at the mo, and wanted to test stuff out in the mean time. And it makes a knock both cold at hot
 
Getting up to temp just standing is not quite the same as working temperature where a greater heat is spread through the motor .If you have an injector that is misbehaving a good run and some quality cleaner could sort it. Worth a try before spending more dosh.

Listened to second vid again and still say it sounds fine but you do not rev it up.
 
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Getting up to temp just standing is not quite the same as working temperature where a greater heat is spread through the motor .If you have an injector that is misbehaving a good run and some quality cleaner could sort it. Worth a try before spending more dosh.
Well unfortunately I think I have found the problem. Pics to come shortly.
 
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I need to try and find a bloody replacement now then.
 
update:
Replaced the broken stud with an m8 bolt to see whether this was indeed the source of the knock. I reset clearances properly, put the rocker cover back on and what do i get? a knocking noise! louder than ever!
Louder than what it was before....
 
Suspect bent shaft next then.
By the way, you can't just pull a bolt and replace it - there's a tightening sequence and torque values.
You'll also want to see to its seats and seals.
 
Suspect bent shaft next then.
By the way, you can't just pull a bolt and replace it - there's a tightening sequence and torque values.
You'll also want to see to its seats and seals.
Well I'm thinking I have 2 faulty injectors actually. I undid the injector pipes as it was running, cylinders 1 and 2 made virtually no difference to the idle sound. Cylinders 3 and 4 brought the idle right down and nearly stalled it. How can I verify no damage has been done as a result of that broken stud?
 
Did you manage to get the rest of the broken stud out? As stated above swap Injectors 1&2 with 3&4 and repeat test, remember you had rust in your FIP, could be debris it there stopping correct fuel flow to one or more injectors. Doing the swap will tell you if it is injectors or not.
 
Did you manage to get the rest of the broken stud out? As stated above swap Injectors 1&2 with 3&4 and repeat test, remember you had rust in your FIP, could be debris it there stopping correct fuel flow to one or more injectors. Doing the swap will tell you if it is injectors or not.
True that! turns out number 4 is also playing up, so i will have to swap em round and see if it makes a difference, i'll swap 1 with 3, and see if it then starts working.
 
Just had a thought how many holes has the new head gasket got?
Sadly I think you may have to take the motor down.
I assume you have oil pressure etc?
I cant remember which end of the head the engine feeds oil pressure to, but if rocker shaft was adrift that may have some bearing on whats going on.
 
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