200tdi issues - the bad luck has to end soon right?

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Rougharse Racing said:
If the clutch fluid reservoir is still full then it is not the master cylinder or slave cylinder, it will be the clutch fork I am afraid.
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Not good news then :(. I have put some cardboard in the footwell and there are a few small drops from the master? Guessing that will want replacing then aswell
 
Rougharse Racing said:
It may want replacing, or a set of news seals, on saying that a master cylinder is only a tenner.
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Yeah if I was doing the clutch and fork I’d probably do a the master and slave aswell. Me and another lad have changed the clutch and gearbox in a disco 300tdi, r380 box, I’m presuming the 200 and lt77 is pretty much the same job? Or is something drastically different?
 
Fortunately the floor comes out on a Land Rover, so at least you can get to the top bellhousing bolts without having to use 50 extension bars on your socket set. From painful memory it is a tw@ of a job on a Discovery unless you have a proper workshop.
It is worth noting that the post that the arm pivots on also wears and can be worth replacing as well, or your new arm will fail prematurely, don't ask me how I know.
 
Rougharse Racing said:
Fortunately the floor comes out on a Land Rover, so at least you can get to the top bellhousing bolts without having to use 50 extension bars on your socket set. From painful memory it is a tw@ of a job on a Discovery unless you have a proper workshop.
It is worth noting that the post that the arm pivots on also wears and can be worth replacing as well, or your new arm will fail prematurely, don't ask me how I know.
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Yeah I remember them being hard work on the disco. We managed it without the use of a ramp, twice and an engine swap but none of it was particularly easy.

Okay cheers.

If the arm has snapped, how come it still feels as though I have a pedal? I would of expected no resistance as someone has mentioned?

Ash
 
The arm does not snap, the pivot post wears through the arm. I would double check before you pull the gear-box, if you remove the slave cylinder you should get an idea what has happened. If the hydraulic system fails it pees fluid out, usually at the cylinders and you lose pedal pressure when the reservoir becomes empty. The only way you could have pedal pressure through failure of the hydraulic system would be if there was an internal blockage or a pipe had been crushed.
If you remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing you will be able so see if it moves when you press the pedal. Not too much or you will be scrabbling about on the floor looking for the piston.
 
Apologies for the lack of updates I haven’t been on here recently.

So the slave was removed and the fork felt fine, but the clutch on the end of it wasn’t right, so over 3 evenings me and a friend swapped the clutch. About 3 hours a night, everything removed on night 1, clutch swapped and the majority back together on night 2 and the exhaust, floor and some small bits on night 3. Typically it was when we had the really bad snow so I was disappointed not to be out playing in that. Plus the girlfriend works up at a horse rehab/livery yard and she had to walk the last mile of her journey because it was so bad, with the landy she would of managed it!

The clutch itself look like it had just completely failed...

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It all came out in bits and pieces basically.

Been driving it since last Thursday and it’s been spot on until yesterday when the intermittent starting started again. Wouldn’t start in the morning when I really needed it, went home at 5, ready to tinker and it started without issue. I’m hoping it doesn’t start tonight so I can try and find the fault! Need to start looking at the fuel side of things, I have a new filter ready to go on so I’ll change that and see if the fuel is reaching the filter

Cheers Ash
 
zeaphod said:
Sorry to hear your starting issue has returned. IIRC, it's turning over but not firing?
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So am i :confused:

Yeah I put a brand new battery on it which I thought had solved it, it’s been fine for a few weeks. But now it’s turning and not firing (yesterday morning and this morning) but last night it started fine.

There was some grey smoke when it started last night, but I think it always smokes a bit whilst cold, once warm it doesn’t really smoke that much (for a 30year old motor). But it might have been a bit excessive yesterday, so unburnt fuel im presuming?
 
Its a real shame that the clutch fell to bits as there was still a lot of meat left on the clutch plate, how many miles had it covered on that clutch plate.
 
Turning and not firing is almost always fuel. As you have said, it's much easier to fault find when the fault is present. I'd start by cleaning around all the fuel joins with paper towel/clean cloth and go for a run. You're looking for even the slightest leak. Check the tightness of all the joints while you're there. make sure the fuel line connections to the lift pump are all well fitted - worth taking them off and refitting - and look for signs of them being badly seated in the pump body. Make sure the stop solenoid connections are perfect at the FIP and ignition ends.
 
Can i put a stupid suggestion forward.

Mine (200tdi) started on the button for years and the one day just an hour after it was last run, it wouldnt start. Turned but just wouldn’t go. Tried for at least an hour, checking the battery etc. Then it just fired up. Went on like this for a couple of weeks. Started sometime and not othertimes.

Changed the starter and not had an issue for about 2-3 years till I took it off the road for the chassis swap about 3 years ago.

Mind, come to start it for the first time in December since that and started on the second turn.

Anyways could be way off the mark (usually am) but worth a try? I got a Disco 300tdi one from a scrappy for £30
 
Scooby22 said:
Its a real shame that the clutch fell to bits as there was still a lot of meat left on the clutch plate, how many miles had it covered on that clutch plate.
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I know, It didn’t look that old! Unfortunately I have no idea, no mention of a clutch change with the paperwork I got with the car.

zeaphod said:
Turning and not firing is almost always fuel. As you have said, it's much easier to fault find when the fault is present. I'd start by cleaning around all the fuel joins with paper towel/clean cloth and go for a run. You're looking for even the slightest leak. Check the tightness of all the joints while you're there. make sure the fuel line connections to the lift pump are all well fitted - worth taking them off and refitting - and look for signs of them being badly seated in the pump body. Make sure the stop solenoid connections are perfect at the FIP and ignition ends.
Click to expand...

So I came home tonight and it didn’t start (woooooo). The first time ive been happy it hasn’t started. Took the fuel filter off and it was only about half full, so I filled up the new one, fit that and she started after one turn, ran spot on, just been for a run and all is at it was.

So my next question is.... once the engine is running, does the lift pump do any pumping, or does the injection pump do the work once it’s started and keeps it running?

SpenB said:
Can i put a stupid suggestion forward.

Mine (200tdi) started on the button for years and the one day just an hour after it was last run, it wouldnt start. Turned but just wouldn’t go. Tried for at least an hour, checking the battery etc. Then it just fired up. Went on like this for a couple of weeks. Started sometime and not othertimes.

Changed the starter and not had an issue for about 2-3 years till I took it off the road for the chassis swap about 3 years ago.

Mind, come to start it for the first time in December since that and started on the second turn.

Anyways could be way off the mark (usually am) but worth a try? I got a Disco 300tdi one from a scrappy for £30
Click to expand...

It’s not a bad idea actually. Sometimes the starter spins up but doesn’t engage, I just turn it off and on again and it’s fine. I’m led to believe that they can be removed and greased up though to try and resolve that. But after checking for fuel issues the starter motor is my next go to!

Thanks Ash
 
Disconnect the outlet of the lift pump and see if it is pumping, put the pipe into a container and see how much comes out. It should come shooting out on the starter motor.
 
They will run when the lift pump is knackered, but not as well as they should. I would have a good look at your lift pump, could be worth slackening the outlet pipe and seeing if it pumps with the priming lever underneath the lift pump. A new lift pump won't cost much.
 
As already said - the lift pump is a mechanical pump (as opposed to later models electric pumps).
i believe it works off a cam in the engine, (as AL203 said), as the engine is running, the cam is rotating and turning the pump.
I changed mine while the engine was out as it was said on here ages ago that (as Rougharse said) a knackered or worn pump can lead to a loss of performance and my defender was struggling at 50mph.
Obviousley its not out the garage yet so cant compare - but then the Alisport full intercooler and new radiator, new parts, tweeked as per Alisports instructions and soon to be rebuilt injectors - i might actually not know if the new lift pump is any better LOL

17-11-5 Outside Pic4f.jpg
17-10-9 Pic4.jpg
16-2-26 Intercooler 1.jpg
16-2-26 Engine Bay 1.jpg
 
Ash2304 said:
I know, It didn’t look that old! Unfortunately I have no idea, no mention of a clutch change with the paperwork I got with the car.



So I came home tonight and it didn’t start (woooooo). The first time ive been happy it hasn’t started. Took the fuel filter off and it was only about half full, so I filled up the new one, fit that and she started after one turn, ran spot on, just been for a run and all is at it was.

So my next question is.... once the engine is running, does the lift pump do any pumping, or does the injection pump do the work once it’s started and keeps it running?



It’s not a bad idea actually. Sometimes the starter spins up but doesn’t engage, I just turn it off and on again and it’s fine. I’m led to believe that they can be removed and greased up though to try and resolve that. But after checking for fuel issues the starter motor is my next go to!

Thanks Ash
Click to expand...

Looks like you have found your problem. The fuel filter should have been brimming with fuel. The lift pumps runs all the time - powered off the camshaft. They are cheap enough to buy and reasonably easy to replace. Make sure you buy a decent one, the cheap ones have a reputation for not lasting long.
 
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