200tdi head
- Thread starter doey
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
bustersbus
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 13,755
- Location
- Near Dumfries, Scotland
According tae Haynes...
Hope ye can make some sense of that
Hope ye can make some sense of that
doey
New Member
- Posts
- 31
does anyone know of the torque setting for a 90 tdi head bolts
Cylinder head bolts:
200tdi engine (all bolts):
Stage 1............... 40 Nm or 30 lbf ft
Stage 2............... Angle-tighten through a further 60 degrees
Stage 3............... Angle-tighten through a further 60 degrees Hope ye can make some sense of that
This is GODDAM TIGHT! You may be surprised how big a pull this is going to be. Do you have a two-foot Samson bar? And an angle indicator? It MUST be done in the recommended order.
Be SURE before you put the gasket or head on that all the holes the head bolts are going into are CLEAN, and are NOT filled with oil water or crap. It is possible to crack a block by hydraulic pressure screwing a bolt into a blind hole full of oil.
Worse, if there is water and / or oil in a bolt hole, as the bolt goes in the crap comes out and fouls the gasket at the worst possible moment.
Blow the worst of crap out of the holes with an air line nozzle (goggles please!) holding a nice old towel over the holes to save your face from catching the crap, and then run a thread "bottoming tap" to the bottom of each hole to pick out the rest of the filth. Clean the tap after each hole.
Copper grease the threads of the bolts LIGHTLY, and the job's a good one.
CharlesY
yella
New Member
- Posts
- 15,991
another chapter from the charlesy big book of landrover fettlin
another chapter from the charlesy big book of landrover fettlin
Yes, sure, but did you ever see a lad crack a cast iron block for want of knowing that? I did. I still feel guilty for not mentioning it to the poor boy.
Is there anything in my "chapter" that you think should be deleted or amended?
Just 'cos us oldies know that sort of stuff doesn't mean a few newer ones don't want to read it.
Your Yella Disco is attracting attention here in my yard!
CharlesY
carpmobile
New Member
- Posts
- 278
- Location
- West yorkshire
Top tip....Number all the head bolt tops clearly with a pencil.
JimAttrill
New Member
- Posts
- 429
- Location
- Johannesburg, South Africa
Even better tip ---- Use Tipp-ex or better, a paint marker, to put a radial line on all the head bolts after the 40 Nm step. Then you can SEE which bolts have been turned. If you lose your way with angle-tightening you can end up in a big mess as it is easy to tighten the same bolt twice. You can test torque, but angle-tightening has its pitfalls.
You can then cheat by angle-tightening by eye using a protractor lying on the head. The time saved is amazing. On a 200tdi all the paint lines should point in the same direction when you are finished.
I've done two 300tdi heads in the past week using this method. Works for V8s and TD5 as they all use angle-tightening.
You can then cheat by angle-tightening by eye using a protractor lying on the head. The time saved is amazing. On a 200tdi all the paint lines should point in the same direction when you are finished.
I've done two 300tdi heads in the past week using this method. Works for V8s and TD5 as they all use angle-tightening.
Remember, the TORQUE on the head bolts is not what saves the head gasket from blowing. That is achieved by the TENSION on the head bolts caused by the torque acting on the threaded ends of the bolts. The TENSION clamps the head down to the block. If the threads are all clean and dry, the clamping force will be the LEAST it can be for that tightening process. If some MOLY lube is used on the threads, the clamping force will be more or less DOUBLED, just like that. This may be one explanation for the fact that when some people do head gaskets they don't blow again. Even a smear of copper-grease adds 50% or more to the clamping force.
Doesn't cost a lot.
CharlesY
doey
New Member
- Posts
- 31
