I haven't but a friend does so am going to collect that this evening.And have you got a valve spring compressor?
I haven't but a friend does so am going to collect that this evening.And have you got a valve spring compressor?
Good advice.is it possible to get pics of the brass followers
He is.Are you referring to the cam followers in the block itself? I will try and get some pics this evening.
A magnetised screw driver is useful for picking the collets out and a blob of grease on the screw driver/collet to get them back in.I haven't but a friend does so am going to collect that this evening.
They can get damaged when valves contact the pistons.
A magnetised screw driver is useful for picking the collets out and a blob of grease on the screw driver/collet to get them back in.
A magnetised screw driver is useful for picking the collets out and a blob of grease on the screw driver/collet to get them back in.
Tbh the ‘clean’ rebuild is best done on a clean sheet at the dining room table with all the bits laid out in order lol.
do to meStarts with cylinder 1 working front to rear:
View attachment 164092 View attachment 164093 View attachment 164094 View attachment 164095 View attachment 164096 View attachment 164097 View attachment 164098 View attachment 164099
again apologies for the poor photos, it is difficult to get phone to focus in the dark, but they all seem to look ok to me.
That sounds like a guaranteed way to end up in the spar room! Same as everyone who suggests the best way to clean it is to put it in the dishwasher!
Good. That is one less thing to replace and one less job to do.do to me
If that is the case how will I tell if the valves are not sealing correctly due to damage? Would it just be a careful inspection of the valve and the valve seat for impact marks?Replace.
I can't really see how you will see any soot bypass as the engine stopped when the belt broke.
Happy to be corrected on that though!
A valve is perfectly straight, spotting a damaged one should be easy but slight damage may be a little harder to spot. Mount it in a Chuck and spin it, any wobble from true should be visible.A more precise way would be using a dti.If that is the case how will I tell if the valves are not sealing correctly due to damage? Would it just be a careful inspection of the valve and the valve seat for impact marks?
I know that no1 intake valve is not sealing so that will be the first one I will remove and inspect. Hopefully there will be something obvious.
Cheers for that, confirms it is a basic as that to check. I was going to pillar drill mount them to clean them so should be easy to tell if they are not true in that case.A valve is perfectly straight, spotting a damaged one should be easy but slight damage may be a little harder to spot. Mount it in a Chuck and spin it, any wobble from true should be visible.A more precise way would be using a dti.
Try rotating the valve in the head by hand on the stem whilst watching the valve head for movement other than perfectly smooth and flat.
A valve is perfectly straight, spotting a damaged one should be easy but slight damage may be a little harder to spot. Mount it in a Chuck and spin it, any wobble from true should be visible.A more precise way would be using a dti.
Try rotating the valve in the head by hand on the stem whilst watching the valve head for movement other than perfectly smooth and flat.
Try rolling the valve stem on a flat surface with the head overlapping the edge, you should see any wobble on the valve headValves are now out.
View attachment 164155
Annoyingly neither the pillar drill or my hand drill are accurate enough and anything put into them has a slight wobble. Having gone through every valve none seem any worse than the others.
Spinning them in the valve seat does not appear to show any signs or being bent either. Any other suggestions?
Doing that shows nothing obvious either.Try rolling the valve stem on a flat surface with the head overlapping the edge, you should see any wobble on the valve head
buy new and lap in you cant repair a damaged oneGood. That is one less thing to replace and one less job to do.
I picked up valve spring compressor this evening. So tomorrow will remove the valves and inspect them. If there is a tell tale of bypass on the valve seat as you mentioned before what is the next course of action. Is it regrinding the valve? Or is it replacing the valve and lapping a new one in?
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