Many thanks for the kind offer, I will see how I get on with the studding I already have. If that does not work out I may take up on the offer.
200tdi cut out and will not restart
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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Personally I wouldn’t use an M12 stud or bolt drilled and tapped to M10. It doesn’t leave an awful lot of material for strength.
When we used to have stripped holes that needed to be retapped, we would drill the old threads out. The size is irrelevant at this point really. Measure the hole diameter accurately, then make a plug to around 0.002-0.003” larger diameter. Shrink the plug (freezer is best for us to do it at home), then apply bearing retainer, and fit it in the hole. It may be tight still, but that’s a good thing. When it warms and expands, it will be solid. Drill and tap to whatever size you need and it will be as strong, or stronger, than before. We would sometimes put a bead of TIG around water jacket plugs to ensure they were water tight after allowing to expand overnight.
I am not looking to drill and tap the studding, I am going to make an m12 to m10 step down stud, so the stripped hole in the casing will be drilled and tapped to m12 to fit the m12 end of the stud, the other end of the stud will be m10 to fit the idler to.
I do not have the tools to work to the accuracy you have stated for a plug repair to work unfortunately.
made and fitted a step down stud which has allowed me to mount the idler pulley
Then fitted the belt with no problem but on tensioning when tightening the bolt it appears to pull the tensioner out of line so that it then runs at an angle. I do not have a photo of it and have not measured it yet but just looking by eye it appears to be straight pre tension then once tensioned and tightened it appears to no longer be sitting flat. I will measure it this evening to check but has anyone else experienced this and have any suggestions?
Then fitted the belt with no problem but on tensioning when tightening the bolt it appears to pull the tensioner out of line so that it then runs at an angle. I do not have a photo of it and have not measured it yet but just looking by eye it appears to be straight pre tension then once tensioned and tightened it appears to no longer be sitting flat. I will measure it this evening to check but has anyone else experienced this and have any suggestions?
jamesmartin
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it must sit flat once you tighten the tensioner securing bolt ,if it doesnt you need a new tensioner id think
It is a new tensioner I am using. It appears to sit flat until the securing bolt is tightened. This the seems to pull it to one side as with the correct tension the securing bolt is right at the beginning of the slot.
jamesmartin
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? tensioner has a flat plate ii cant see it do anything other than sit flat providing its located properly and is not a poor part
I will measure it this evening and check the plate is actually flat and report back.
It might just be the angle I am looking at and the fact that I am looking for something to be out of line after the old belt had the edge chewed down.
Flossie
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I've mentioned somewhere, might be this thread even, that I had a new tensioner that did that and the plate was warped. I didn't spot it when I got it out the blue box .
jamesmartin
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i havent seen that yet but doesnt surprise me ,poor parts are bane
This is now starting to annoy me as it is still not working, and I only have limited time to work on between other commitments.
I set the tappets this evening and tried to start it briefly to check the belt is running true before refitting the cover etc. It will not start (not even close) and appears to be chuffing "exhaust" out of the intake manifold rather than drawing air in.
I assume from this that I have got the timing wrong. However I cannot work out what is wrong and how to correct it. I have the pump timing pin fitted, the timing mark on the cam cog lined up, and the woodruff key of the crank lined up and the timing mark on the fly wheel in the correct position. please see pics:
Can any one suggest what I have done wrong and how to rectify it, I am sure it will be something fairly simple.
I set the tappets this evening and tried to start it briefly to check the belt is running true before refitting the cover etc. It will not start (not even close) and appears to be chuffing "exhaust" out of the intake manifold rather than drawing air in.
I assume from this that I have got the timing wrong. However I cannot work out what is wrong and how to correct it. I have the pump timing pin fitted, the timing mark on the cam cog lined up, and the woodruff key of the crank lined up and the timing mark on the fly wheel in the correct position. please see pics:
Can any one suggest what I have done wrong and how to rectify it, I am sure it will be something fairly simple.
Timing look ok, did you check for bent valves after the belt snapped as compression could be leaking past the valve seats
I did not check for bent valves. The consensus seemed to be tdi valves do not bend and should not be a problem.
How do I check for bent valves?
jamesmartin
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see post 21, what consensus?its not usual but can happen which is why i put it in the post
Easiest way would be compression check but for that you need to know that timing is correct (it does look ok) but as you can can feel air coming out the intake manifold then that is a sign that something is awry. Other option could be to remove the valvegear and put a straight edge across the cylinder head to see if all the valve caps are at the same height, if one is slightly lower then it may be bent. Last resort is head off and look.
How do you see post numbers?
next to the like button
Can you be more specific. When you say remove the valve gear? What am I removing?
I just have quote, reply, report, andthe time posted.
