200tdi Brake Vacuum pump repair kit P/N

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Got my easi bleed back today.

Came home from work at 4.30.

By 5pm we had a solid pedal.

My.diagnosis of a dead circuit was right. And it was the front brakes that were not working .

No improvement to my vac situation my vac tester hasn't arrived yet hopefully tonight or tomorrow. Get it nailed down where the issue is and get paddocks speedy delivery on it Sunday.
 
So the at rev increase in servo assistance was. Red herring.

My servo will only hold 5hg. Any more and it bleeds back to 5hg.

My vac pumps producing 25hg at idle and 28hg at rev.

Removed it. Can't see any damage. It's >5 years old but I'm happy enough with vac pump.and hoses performance.

One way valve also works I draw vacume against my thumb and remove the vac hose and vac remains.

Will order a servo up as my test is on Thursday.
 
top drive said:
So the at rev increase in servo assistance was. Red herring.

My servo will only hold 5hg. Any more and it bleeds back to 5hg.

My vac pumps producing 25hg at idle and 28hg at rev.

Removed it. Can't see any damage. It's >5 years old but I'm happy enough with vac pump.and hoses performance.

One way valve also works I draw vacume against my thumb and remove the vac hose and vac remains.

Will order a servo up as my test is on Thursday.
Click to expand...

I had to replace a servo on wifes old audi severla years ago, as it was leaking form the pushrod side, not all the time, but every now and then it would emit a long drawn out squeal!
 
Well that's irritating.

I've bled all my brake fluid through the system and still it feels like crap.

I bled the master cylinder at the top.

I bled all the brakes for ages.

The. Car stops quick sharp but the pedals low and feels pish.

Its got a new servo and master cylinder seals fitted (not the first time I've done it-and the pedal doesn't sink)

It just feels very low and a bit spongey.

More bleed will likely sort the spongeyness but why is the pedal so low.

Servo push rod likely set up horse **** ?
 
Also the vac doesn't feel much different.

I know I have vac from the pump now with only a 3hg difference between idle and rev. Does anyone know what it should be reading. ?

The hose holds vac the one way valve holds and the new servo holds vac.
 
top drive said:
Also the vac doesn't feel much different.

I know I have vac from the pump now with only a 3hg difference between idle and rev. Does anyone know what it should be reading. ?

The hose holds vac the one way valve holds and the new servo holds vac.
Click to expand...

Have you checked the calliper pistons are returning?
I have had them where they are dry and sort of roll the square section seal when you press the peda,l and then when pedal released the seal pulls the piston back in so you then have to long a pedal stroke, also same with slack wheel bearings hammering the pads/pisons back into the callipers.

Has you car got the front/rear brake bias valve? I have no experience of these, but have heard stories of them causing issues, some early ones had a switch in, so in the event of a pipe failure, the internal piston would travel to far and activate the switch putting the brake waring on, then you had to repair whatever had gone wrong then strip the bias valve down and reset it, otherwise you could not bleed it.

Not something silly like callipers on the wrong side, so nipple at the bottom? I did this once with the clutch slave!
 
brakes were **** hot. Prior to low vacuum being noted on my last mot - same tester for years.

Then over this year i got pedal creep - the M/C seals had gone - but the bite point was still a good height.

Only things that have changed are the Servo , the vac vanes/gaskets and the M/C seals. the pedal feels solid now just very far down - even when cars not moving - it doesnt get any higher if you keep pumping it.

Bias switch is a ball bearing in a tube in this case

Car stops quick and in a straight line.

Going to investigate the push rod adjustment tonight - have vague memories of doing this the last time i replced the servo.
 
top drive said:
brakes were **** hot. Prior to low vacuum being noted on my last mot - same tester for years.

Then over this year i got pedal creep - the M/C seals had gone - but the bite point was still a good height.

Only things that have changed are the Servo , the vac vanes/gaskets and the M/C seals. the pedal feels solid now just very far down - even when cars not moving - it doesnt get any higher if you keep pumping it.

Bias switch is a ball bearing in a tube in this case

Car stops quick and in a straight line.

Going to investigate the push rod adjustment tonight - have vague memories of doing this the last time i replced the servo.
Click to expand...
push rod adjustment is a common factor now when changing a m/c or servo
 
Push rod adjustment sorted out the pedal feel.

Brakes sharp as took.

Vac still ****.
Even changed hose for some snazzy green vac hose I had in the garage. Engine bay is horrid now.

Bit bullet bought a vac pump.

See what else it fails on mot tomorrow haha
 
I got an MOT.

Tester said brakes are far better than last year.

He's talking pish they are ****ing horrendous.

He also used the words "she's solid under neeth and everything works"

New vac pump getting fitted tomorrow when it gets here.
 
revisitng this.

brakes still great

eventual Oil leak underneath not so good..... nearly lost all the oil on the way home on tuesday- it hadnt leaked prior to that - the patch underneath when i parked up looked like the oil filter had come off. it was running off the prop shaft.

the Bolts for the Vac pump were torqued up to the setting from the book of lies with the spring washers in place

when i stuck the long end of my T handle in the bolts moved very easy.

I retorqued them to ugga dugga dugga tight ...... lets see if they stay tight.... maybe will loctite them if it happens again.
 
The allen key ones?
I took mine off after this thread the other day to replace the o-ring, and the three mounting bolts were not very tight at all
 
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