Recently my turbo sounded like it was screaming when accelerating and changing between gears. I was advised that it needed replacing. I bought a reconditioned unit and fitted it three week as ago. I primed it with an oil filled syringe and gently spun the internal wheel. I checked there was a good oil supply before starting. It worked ok but seemed noisier than the previous unit (both Garrett). It has lasted three weeks or so and is now making the same screeching noise as it’s predecessor. It started when I was towing a caravan up a Hill on a recent weekend away. It made a few weird noises before making the same sound as the old unit. Is there anything that could be causing the turbo to fail that I haven’t mentioned here and what can I do about it? Appreciate any pearls of wisdom as I have shelled out a small fortune (also had to replace 4 manifold studs and helicoil one). Thanks.
2006 Td5 90 Turbo Issues.
- Thread starter WSAG
- Start date
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99.9 percent you have a warped manifold either on cylinder 1 or 5 and the screech when pulling hard is a classic sign of this.
Mine always went on number 5.
I could control the screech with the throttle initially nipping the nuts up would last a few days then it was off again.
Its more of an issue the higher the state of tune.
Im afraid its turbo off again, remove manifold and get it machined flat.
The best tip is once manifodl machined flat is to then deweb the manifold and also drill all the mounting holes bar the very end two out an extra couple of millimeters to allow the thing to shuffle about.
Also check intercooler pipes, but as the work cured it for a few days I would say they are fine.
Ive got some pics somewhere, will find and post
Mine always went on number 5.
I could control the screech with the throttle initially nipping the nuts up would last a few days then it was off again.
Its more of an issue the higher the state of tune.
Im afraid its turbo off again, remove manifold and get it machined flat.
The best tip is once manifodl machined flat is to then deweb the manifold and also drill all the mounting holes bar the very end two out an extra couple of millimeters to allow the thing to shuffle about.
Also check intercooler pipes, but as the work cured it for a few days I would say they are fine.
Ive got some pics somewhere, will find and post
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Fantastic. I had noticed that the studs for 1 and 5 were snapped and hadn’t been repaired. Also one stud was completely missing and replaced by a M8 1.25mm bolt! I put it down to the previous owner’s bodgery! I will definitely take your advice. Far too coincidental for the same problem to happen again so soon. Would you happen to know if the deweb versions of the manifold on eBay are generally any good? I can’t afford to have it off the road for very long so thought a straight swap may be the quickest and best option. Thanks again for your advice.
I dewebbed mine myself, messy job as grinder dust and cast dust all over the shop.
I would assume the ones on ebay are 2nd hand ones machined flat and dewebbbed? if so I would say they will be fine, dont forget even your old one will have a value might even be exchange?
Iirc there used to be extended manifold bolt fixing kits with steel spacers which is what most full size hgvs have as std kit which is probably where they got the idea from, edit just looked and cant find them now!
Bolts into alloy heads are not a good idea, the standard studs are carp as it is, theres a techy term fo it and I dont know the techy term (galling?) but basically a stud fitted and tightened is fine but the bolts turning action whilst under tension will damage the threads and they will fail soon after.
Add in the M8 thread is to fine for use in aluminium in a high load situation ie a super hot long solid lump of cast thats trying to bend as you get it hot, 200/300 are M10 studs.
Landrover even knew this many years ago with the series models as any thread into the alloy tended to be UNC which is super coarse meaning it gripped like the proverbial.
Note to self must get out more!
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Just fitted a newly skimmed manifold (it previously looked like the photo above and the gasket was black around cyls 1 and 5). Not hearing the screaming noise anymore, touch wood. Thanks for the sage advice.
