2004 1.8 petrol

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Craig46

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Bibgley uk
Hey guys pls help if possible. Freelander cut out on way home from a long day out well ( hour and half drive each way morning and teatime ) hot day yesterday.
And then wouldnt start back up
No lights on dash no warnings just died. Oil seems fine. Coolant fine. got petrol. Temp fine. New battery not long ago oil and filter changed not long ago just mot last week

. Left to cool abit 5 mins or so and started back up only to get a couple of miles further and did same again and again and again.

Any ideas as were stumped. Camshaft to crankshaft sensor was aparantly changed other year as this same thing happened before and was taken to garage.
 
When you say no lights on dash, was the battery (not) charging/ignition light on?

If not it could indicate that the ignition switch (the plastic switch on the end of the ignition barrel) is faulty.
 
Sorry yeah not clear there. No lights came on leading to it cutting out then once engine actually stopped the battery and oil can light came on asthough youd just turned on ignition. it would turn over but not start until it had been left 5 mins and then would start straight up again
 
Looks like those that know the K Series 1.8 are enjoying their bank holiday weekend :)

I'd get googling for things like ODB diagnostics check for fuel pressure and sensor feed - eg is engine showing any RPM when turning over. I believe a 2004 K Series should be ODb compliant so should read such things with a basic ODBII tool. You might even see some error codes that you can then google to find their meaning.

I'm sure there's loads of stuff on LZ about it - but the search facility is broke at the moment (its a Land Rover site!) - so Google will be your friend and putting Landyzone in the search will show pages on here.
 
Craig46 said:
how would i go about checking a sensor or fuel pump without me sounding like a complete numpty
Click to expand...
Fuel pump operation.
Stick your ear near the rear seat on the RHS and get a helper to switch the ignition on. If the pump is running, you'll hear it prime for a few seconds before shutting off.

A sensor needs a diagnostic device to read the codes, but should also throw the MIL too.;)
 
As what Nodge68 said. My money is on a faulty fuel pump and / or a clogged fuel filter which is part of the pump. A pretty straight forward job to replace it too. Mine did the same on a hot summer's day. I replaced the list' cap, rotor & plug leads only to find it was the pump / filter :(
 
So you guys think head the fuel pump route rather than the camshaft to crankshaft sensor route.

Is it worth exploring both looking at sensire £30 and fuel pump £160 haha
 
Dodgy tickover is often the Idle control valve. It's beside the throttle body with a short hose going to it. Pull the throttle body end of the hose off and spray a load of carb cleaner into it with the engine running.
 
I would have thought that if you can't hear the pump start up, then the pump if naff.

If the pump does start up, then it may be its got weak and is failing or the filter is blocked - not necessarily an indicator that the crank sensor is shot.

£30 is still £30 - will make the pump £190 if its that that's gone. I'm not familiar with the K Series - but I presume the sensor is also a lot easier to replace. Might be worth seeing if you can get a cheap sensor from a breakers to test before splashing out $300+ on a pump and possibly a bigger job replacing it.
 
I know someone who has a freelander so hes going to take the fuel pump and the sensor off for me ill start with the pump.

My only problem is tht this hapened on a long hot day and normal town day to day runninv around doesnt seem to make it happen. As ive been using for last couple of days for work
 
Craig46 said:
Also does anyone have an idea how i can adjust the tick over on my freelander
Click to expand...

You can't as it's ECU controlled. As Alibro said, the IACV can clog up with muck. This then sticks with causes idle speed issues.
Have you checked the fuel pump is running?
 
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