L322 2002 L322 EMS ECU dead all of a sudden?

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I purchased a

533107 Silver 020 12V Car Battery 5 Year Guarantee 110AH 920CCA 0/1 B13 By Varta form ebay, they are currently listed at £144​

I believe Datatek suggested an even better deal but cannot remember the details, perhaps he might put them up for you, but he will agree that the L322 needs at least 110 Ah, NOT the 95 Ah RR originally advised in the handbook because that was just for the 'basic' Rangey, any upgraded model like the vogue needs the extra ampage to power all the bells and whistles like TV screen and other 'advanced' features that consume huge amounts of power, especially on start up.
 
nevillen said:
I purchased a

533107 Silver 020 12V Car Battery 5 Year Guarantee 110AH 920CCA 0/1 B13 By Varta form ebay, they are currently listed at £144​

I believe Datatek suggested an even better deal but cannot remember the details, perhaps he might put them up for you, but he will agree that the L322 needs at least 110 Ah, NOT the 95 Ah RR originally advised in the handbook because that was just for the 'basic' Rangey, any upgraded model like the vogue needs the extra ampage to power all the bells and whistles like TV screen and other 'advanced' features that consume huge amounts of power, especially on start up.
Click to expand...
I will not touch Varta, I found that they do not work well in cold weather, the new Varta I got for my Transit was fine all summer but useless in winter. The project P38 I bought had a new Varta fitted when I went to collect it, same applied. That battery is now fitted to my 2 cylinder 13HP micro tractor and it will not even start that unless it's kept on a solar charger in winter. The Transit battery now lives in our polytunnel on permanent solar charge and drives a 12 volt pump for watering.
 
So I went and bought a brand new Bosch S5 015 110Ah/920A. Zilch. Nada. Niente.

EMS ECU gets its power. No fuses are blown anywhere. What the actual heck…
 
favoretti said:
So I went and bought a brand new Bosch S5 015 110Ah/920A. Zilch. Nada. Niente.

EMS ECU gets its power. No fuses are blown anywhere. What the actual heck…
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I mean EMS ECU gets power on the wires (measurable) yet still refuses to start. Left it on a charger overnight, will check in a couple of hours… I’m lost.
 
Sooo… ECU didn’t even make a single attempt to start today.

Whatever I try - no engine mgmt light, no comms with ECU, nothing.

Ordered a refurb one, cause the only real way for me to verify whether this one is alive and something else is messing with it is to open it up and hook to AlienTech KESS3 in boot mode. And that’s… a thing with a 21 year old layer of glue. Wanna have a backup just in case.

So waiting on allcomms and the ECU to arrive.

For the entertainment of people following my so-called distribution chain replacement - here are some pics and video of what’s happening.

 

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Datatek said:
Have you checked the ignition switch?
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Oh, I'm sorry, I completely missed this. How would ignition switch affect engine management ECU? I mean... if the steering column lock unlocks - I'd assume the ignition switch is ok? Or is this a false assumption?
 
favoretti said:
Oh, I'm sorry, I completely missed this. How would ignition switch affect engine management ECU? I mean... if the steering column lock unlocks - I'd assume the ignition switch is ok? Or is this a false assumption?
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The contacts in the ignition switch erode and become high resistance, this affect different systems to a greater or lesser extent. The fact that the steering unlocks does not IMO meant the switch is good.
You need to check for volt drop between the power in and the power out.
 
Right, so I got out and bought a replacement ECU. Plugged in - and the engine started cranking like nothing ever happened. Cranking but not starting. Now for the next problem - P1672, aka immo resync to ECU. I assume this is the reason for crank no start. I've read out old ECU in boot mode (which tells me it's not completely borked), wrote Micro, EEPROM and Flash to the new ECU, still getting P1672.

Anyone knows if AllComms is capable of resyncing immo to ECU? If not I can try and opt in to remove immo completely, but I'd rather fix it properly...

Thanks in advance for any hints!

1698775158073.png
 
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It runs! Essentially all that was missing was a DME sync. None of my tools had anything like that in LadRover/RangeRover section and then this morning I was like... Heck with it, it's an X5 engine with an X5 EWS. So went into BMW tooling section, and yep, there it was, DME sync procedure. Ran that - car started up and keeps starting. Reassembling the rest now.. Still have over/under advanced camshafts errors, but the engine runs smoothly, need to get it through the yearly check here in the Netherlands, back on the road and will see what gives. If no errors pop up (like a check engine light) - I'll probably keep driving with over/under advancement for a while, I've had enough of the timing for now :) Rattling is gone, misfires are gone, I'm happy for now. Hopefully over/under advancement won't have a deadly effect on the CO levels, those are kinda a must to be ok here in NL.
 
Good news :) .

Maybe the "new" ECU has stored values, maybe a bit of running will average them out and things will be fine.

There are adaptive settings in most ECUs, you could look for that and reset so it would relearn, which would take some driving, or just drive it if its fine and it will relearn anyway.

J
 
marjon said:
Good news :) .

Maybe the "new" ECU has stored values, maybe a bit of running will average them out and things will be fine.

There are adaptive settings in most ECUs, you could look for that and reset so it would relearn, which would take some driving, or just drive it if its fine and it will relearn anyway.

J
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That's my current way of thinking indeed. Since ECU was cloned, it probably has some old values, but I reset adaptations on Engine, Trans and all over the place I could find and consider relevant.. Will see indeed what happens when I drive it for a while.
 
favoretti said:
That's my current way of thinking indeed. Since ECU was cloned, it probably has some old values, but I reset adaptations on Engine, Trans and all over the place I could find and consider relevant.. Will see indeed what happens when I drive it for a while.
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Ah ok.
So you cloned it, ie its the same, and then reset adaptations?
So now you need to drive it.
If it was exactly the same why reset adaptive settings?

My way of thinking is people jump at the adaptive setting reset button too soon, Adaptive settings should only be changed on the relevant ECU "if" major mechanical things have changed.
You haven't. But anyway that's by the by just drive it and it will correct itself after a while. :)

J
 
marjon said:
Ah ok.
So you cloned it, ie its the same, and then reset adaptations?
So now you need to drive it.
If it was exactly the same why reset adaptive settings?

My way of thinking is people jump at the adaptive setting reset button too soon, Adaptive settings should only be changed on the relevant ECU "if" major mechanical things have changed.
You haven't. But anyway that's by the by just drive it and it will correct itself after a while. :)

J
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I did change distribution chain, guides and tensioners and retimed the engine. It’s kinda a “major mechanical thing” in my book :)
 
Son of a… it ran for 2 days. Went to a neighboring garage for yearly tech check and… stopped starting. When comfort start runs for about 15 seconds - it makes an attempt and then stops.

No errors reported in any ECUs. Every once in a while 90 ignition sense incorrect shows up in Instrument pack.

I’m afraid I’ll have to retime it again, but… how’s that even possible? I drove about a 100km with it for a test with 0 issues.
 
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