sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,873
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- Arad/Romania
So here's the plan:
- when i name a connector as C.... you go to the RAVE - Electrical library - Connector views scroll down and click on it to see the pin disposals, watch it carefully and concetrate to work exactly on what i say otherwise the whole thing can be a mess, corroborate the pin's position with the wire colour to be certain it's the good one.
- first you have to set the multimeter to DC, bridge the perpendicular cavities of R9 as you did when it started, start the engine then put the multimeter's probes across the other(parallel) cavities, you should get close to 12V and it should start to jump all over at a time i think.... or not, anyway remember what you saw
- then remove the bridge, remove the relay's plastic cover and put it back then start the engine, when the relay starts clicking measure across the parallel terminals cos you have access to them, remember what you see
- then you have to pull up the ECU without unplugging it and let it in a position as to be able to startthe engine and to insert the multimeter's negative probe from behind into the black plug (C0658) pin 5 UP(blue/purple) wire, the positive probe to live in the fusebox(FL1)... if you dont have needle probe use other needle as to reach the wire's core and measure on that ... if the result is the same like on the relay's coil then the ECU is most probably fubar, if the voltage on the ECU pin is steady the problem is at the fusebox(bad contact in the related plug C0573 pin 9 /also UP wire or bad contact within the fusebox. remember these measurements are relevant while the relay is clicking and report the results
Good luck
- when i name a connector as C.... you go to the RAVE - Electrical library - Connector views scroll down and click on it to see the pin disposals, watch it carefully and concetrate to work exactly on what i say otherwise the whole thing can be a mess, corroborate the pin's position with the wire colour to be certain it's the good one.
- first you have to set the multimeter to DC, bridge the perpendicular cavities of R9 as you did when it started, start the engine then put the multimeter's probes across the other(parallel) cavities, you should get close to 12V and it should start to jump all over at a time i think.... or not, anyway remember what you saw
- then remove the bridge, remove the relay's plastic cover and put it back then start the engine, when the relay starts clicking measure across the parallel terminals cos you have access to them, remember what you see
- then you have to pull up the ECU without unplugging it and let it in a position as to be able to startthe engine and to insert the multimeter's negative probe from behind into the black plug (C0658) pin 5 UP(blue/purple) wire, the positive probe to live in the fusebox(FL1)... if you dont have needle probe use other needle as to reach the wire's core and measure on that ... if the result is the same like on the relay's coil then the ECU is most probably fubar, if the voltage on the ECU pin is steady the problem is at the fusebox(bad contact in the related plug C0573 pin 9 /also UP wire or bad contact within the fusebox. remember these measurements are relevant while the relay is clicking and report the results
Good luck
