200 tdi won't start - help
- Thread starter bluehaze
- Start date
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ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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If it aint fully charged when ya take it in, it'll come up duff wether it is or not.
pos
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First things first. If you think that you've got a battery problem, don't start running straight to Halfords to get it checked, try and isolate the problem your self. Can you hear the starter motor solenoid clicking when you turn the key?
Start by by-passing the supposedly faulty battery and simply clamp some jump leads from another vehicles battery terminals (with their engine running and maintaining steady revs) to the leads in your battery compartment with your battery still in place. Give it a few minutes to excite the chemicals and create a little charge and then turn your engine over on the key. It should fire straight up. Has it? If you hear a clicking sound when you turn the engine over, that's the starter motor solenoid crying out for more amps. So check that all the connections on the battery terminals / jump leads are good and clean and then ask your fiend to really rev their engine whilst you turn the key.
If not, keep your friend their with their engine running and connect a length of wire from the positive terminal of their battery directly to the spade connector on the fuel solenoid which is located on your injection pump. Then, with the jump leads still connected between the battery in your landy and the battery in their motor, turn the engine over again. If it hasn't spun up into life then there may be a couple of other problems:
1) No fuel reaching engine
2) Air in fuel line
3) No air reaching cylinders
Very slightly slacken the bleed nipple / nut on the very top of your fuel filter housing. It may have a couple of fuel pipes running into / out of a banjo ring attached to it. Find the fuel lift pump on the drivers side of the engine and then manually pump the lever. It should pump fuel up from the tank and into the filter housing. Observe the slackened bleed nut for diesel. if it bubbles, you've got air in your system. If it seeps pure diesel with no bubbles, there is no air in the system and the problem lies somewhere else. Try turning the engine over again following some manual fuel pumping, it may have helped any air through the system.
Another possibility is that you have a jiggered lift pump, which would show similar problems to what you're describing. The pump lever on the cam may have worn or bent rendering the pump useless, or the none-return valve inside the pump may have failed, allowing fuel to escape back away from the engine. If this is the case, the injection pump will be trying to draw fuel through the system, maybe from as far back as the tank, which is a lot of pumping! So be patient and keep letting it turn over (on the jump leads) until the bugger fires up!
See how you get on with that
-Pos
Start by by-passing the supposedly faulty battery and simply clamp some jump leads from another vehicles battery terminals (with their engine running and maintaining steady revs) to the leads in your battery compartment with your battery still in place. Give it a few minutes to excite the chemicals and create a little charge and then turn your engine over on the key. It should fire straight up. Has it? If you hear a clicking sound when you turn the engine over, that's the starter motor solenoid crying out for more amps. So check that all the connections on the battery terminals / jump leads are good and clean and then ask your fiend to really rev their engine whilst you turn the key.
If not, keep your friend their with their engine running and connect a length of wire from the positive terminal of their battery directly to the spade connector on the fuel solenoid which is located on your injection pump. Then, with the jump leads still connected between the battery in your landy and the battery in their motor, turn the engine over again. If it hasn't spun up into life then there may be a couple of other problems:
1) No fuel reaching engine
2) Air in fuel line
3) No air reaching cylinders
Very slightly slacken the bleed nipple / nut on the very top of your fuel filter housing. It may have a couple of fuel pipes running into / out of a banjo ring attached to it. Find the fuel lift pump on the drivers side of the engine and then manually pump the lever. It should pump fuel up from the tank and into the filter housing. Observe the slackened bleed nut for diesel. if it bubbles, you've got air in your system. If it seeps pure diesel with no bubbles, there is no air in the system and the problem lies somewhere else. Try turning the engine over again following some manual fuel pumping, it may have helped any air through the system.
Another possibility is that you have a jiggered lift pump, which would show similar problems to what you're describing. The pump lever on the cam may have worn or bent rendering the pump useless, or the none-return valve inside the pump may have failed, allowing fuel to escape back away from the engine. If this is the case, the injection pump will be trying to draw fuel through the system, maybe from as far back as the tank, which is a lot of pumping! So be patient and keep letting it turn over (on the jump leads) until the bugger fires up!
See how you get on with that
-Pos
Last edited:
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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is there any smoke from the exhaust when yer cranking it over?
Engines dont get addicted, its actually normally the knackered engines that are started with this that lead to this tale. Myself and others have started loads of engines with this without any problems.
When on a scania course a few years ago we went into this theory and it seems that the extra heat and compression caused by using these unmeasured doo dahs take a knackered engine into the death mode, it was knackered and gona fail anyway thats why you used it.
Some trucks had a device that sprayed this into the engine as a cold start device, it was total crap so we took them off and they started fine without them.
It sure as hell takes the pressure off the starter motor and gets the fuel if drained back a bit back up.
Look at the theory of how a CI engine works and its actually impossible for it not to start on its own fuel if all is ok.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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You are correct in saying that it's knackered engines that you have to beware of. I wouldn't say it was a completely unfounded myth though. Easy start and the like clean carbon deposits from within the cylinders. This results in less compression as the carbon is no longer filling the voids. Once the carbon is gone you need to use easy start the next time and then the next etc in order to get the engine to start.
Shifty1962
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You'll get a better diagnosis from your local bingo hall. I would not trust the muppets at Halfrauds to tell me the time let alone anything technical.
Sirus
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Daft, Shiftys calling you names
Thanks all - especially Pos.
The engine roared into life once the system was bleed and had a jump start. But it would not start by itself again (even after a run out).
Borrowed a mates battery and hay presto it was sorted - new battery on its way.
Thanks again
The engine roared into life once the system was bleed and had a jump start. But it would not start by itself again (even after a run out).
Borrowed a mates battery and hay presto it was sorted - new battery on its way.
Thanks again
pos
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Well there you go
It's not uncommon for fuel to slowly find it's way back down the fuel lines, especially when the engine has been stood for a while. In theory - the vacuum created in the fuel system should prevent it from moving back down the lines but it doesn't always work like that, especially if you have a couple of worn diaphragms. It's nothing to worry about, but I'd still be tempted to check the condition of your lift pump. Best thing to do (if you want to check it) is to loosen the fuel pipe between the lift pump and your fuel filter housing. Once it's loose, pull the pipe out of the lift pump and then have your friend turn the engine over on the key. It should literally launch diesel up at your bonnet after a couple of turns. If it doesn't, I'd suspect that it's faulty and it'd be worth while swapping it. The part costs about £20 and it takes about 10 minutes to change. Oh and if you do swap it, DO NOT buy a Britpart lift pump! They're made from re-cycled jam tart trays Delphi, Allmakes4x4 and Bearmach make the best parts - delphi particularly with lift pump.sSaying that, if it's not broken, don't fix it!
-Pos
Sirus
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Still just sounds like the batterys fooked
pos
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Yeah and that :doh:
