200 TDI / DI how to tell if it's from a defender or discovery/rangerover

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shadyadie

shadyadie

Well-Known Member
Posts
303
Location
Isle of Arran
I've just bought a series 2a with a 200tdi engine without the t,
I asked the previous owner when the timing belt was last done and I just got a blank look.
I've just been on to paddocks and the kit for defender is different than the discovery, without taking everything off is there anyway to tell which kit I will need.
 
discovery has the water pump bolted to the front cover
upload_2018-5-29_8-53-50.jpeg

defender water pumps above
ebay714448.jpg
 
The timing belt kit is axactly the same for both engines, what is different is the disco engine has an extra idler pulley you havw to purchase seperately, most if not all kits come with both sets of gaskets included, ie two timing chest gaskets two water pump gaskets etc etc.
Britpart if fine for this application, Iirc comes as std with a Dayco belt
 
Thanks, it's the same as the blue engine except mine is a rust / oil colour :)
How difficult is it a job to do ? Never done one before
 
If the engine is in you will probably struggle to lock the flywheel as the cross member blocks access to the hole on bell housing.
 
You can do it in situ its fiddly and a little bit of a guess as Blackburn says above you cant get to the flywheel timing hole, if you line the pump timing hole and the cam timing marks up you wont be far out then when you refit the front timing cover theres a cast arrow on the front which should line up with the crank woodruff key.
Easiest way is to remove entire front radiator panel complete with rad etc

 
shadyadie said:
I was beginning to think that when I looked last night
Click to expand...


Ive done it my self remove the bare minimum and struggled like hell, as Ive got older Ive realised removing big chunks of bodywprk makes life a dodlle.
Its only a row of bolts at the bottom of the panel and a few each side holding the panel to the the wing, some hoses and a bit of wiring and its out, the panel to wing bolts can be an arse, grinde might be needed, well worth using stainless bolts and some grease when refitting, dotn use nylocks either as they just make it painful.
 
Anyone know where i can get a set of bolts for the timing case and water pump, even before I started I could see 1/2 the bolts were rounded off. The ones on the water pump were a pig and a half to get off and I've eventually managed to loosen all but 1 of the timing case bolts, Not managed to undo the bolt holding the crank pulley yet any ideas where's best to get the tool.
Why do people put back rounded bolts????
 
Put socket and bar on crank pulley nut and crank the engine over on the starter, works for me.
Try whacking the end of the bolt that wont move then heat up and use vice grips and a hammer or whack a smaller socket on
, I snapped one off and had to drill it out....
 
I dont know if you can get a set of bolts as iirc they are all different lengths, I draw a pic of the timing chest on some cardboard and punch holes in it for the bolts as its dead easy to get muddled up.
 
lynall said:
That will be fine for the timing chest but most threaded bar is not high tensile so will be 4.4 rather than the normal bolt 8.8 strength.
Click to expand...
As long as the water pump has decent bolts you could glue the others on its only an aluminium cover:)
and mines been on eight years or more on that engine, been off and on again for cam belt as well
 
landowner said:
As long as the water pump has decent bolts you could glue the others on its only an aluminium cover:)
and mines been on eight years or more on that engine, been off and on again for cam belt as well
Click to expand...
some of the secure the timing chest as well and unless they are tight the gasket will leak
 
The water pump bolts will secure the gasket the rest just hold the cover to the engine... they are also screwed into aluminium so wont take much stress
 
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