2.7mpg, extreme poor running!!

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If they run rather rich the oil does end up fuely anyway.

just dropped the oil on mine after its second drop since the rebuild (about 1000 miles) but first drop since fitting megasquirt which has involved some rich running in between, and the oil was dark and smelt very strong of fuel.

i had a super rich occasion one time where the MAF has become disconnected partially (somehow) and it actually started smoking on tickover it was so rich.

i **** myself for a few minutes and then set about finding the problem!

would be surprised if yours had taken the rings already if it hasnt run that long, not like it didnt have any oil in it at all...
 
Mr Noisy said:
If they run rather rich the oil does end up fuely anyway.


i had a super rich occasion one time where the MAF has become disconnected partially (somehow) and it actually started smoking on tickover it was so rich.


mine was smoking out the exhaust when cranking, it wouldn't even fire up!!

My oil also looks abit dark too now
Click to expand...
 
Mr Noisy said:
will the steve heath ecu mate read out injector pulse width and duty cycle?

could be an idea to get it on there and see what it says.
Click to expand...


only got the steve heath basic fault code reader on it that just gives numbers you can reference. The way it was barely running makes it seem like the injectors are constantly open. Its not starting now so i'll un plug the injectors and put led's on the plugs see if they pulse when i crank it over
 
if it was running fine then suddenly crap I can't see it being the chip.

feel the headers to see if all cylinders are actually firing (obviously not when its been running for a while). if all pipes are warm then you are getting a spark so its more likely to be a sensor.

the timming hasn't been bumped at all has it?
 
POAH said:
if it was running fine then suddenly crap I can't see it being the chip.

feel the headers to see if all cylinders are actually firing (obviously not when its been running for a while). if all pipes are warm then you are getting a spark so its more likely to be a sensor.

the timming hasn't been bumped at all has it?
Click to expand...


All fine on thursday then start up on sunday a struggle and a nasty misfire..odd

I agree it's unlikely to be the chip but why would a sensor all of a sudden just faill too?

The engine was runing really cold, straight after stopping the inlet plenum (although not expected to be super hot) was only really prety warm. So i'm thinking it must be running super rich.

Unless some clever local hoodlum has opened my bonnet and un done the awkward little bastard that is the dizzy clamp bolt the timing hasn't been touched!
 
dirtydiscov8 said:
All fine on thursday then start up on sunday a struggle and a nasty misfire..odd

I agree it's unlikely to be the chip but why would a sensor all of a sudden just faill too?

The engine was runing really cold, straight after stopping the inlet plenum (although not expected to be super hot) was only really prety warm. So i'm thinking it must be running super rich.

Unless some clever local hoodlum has opened my bonnet and un done the awkward little bastard that is the dizzy clamp bolt the timing hasn't been touched!
Click to expand...
If running cold auto choke could have been adjusting to try and warm it up but failing due to lack of air or something ?
 
I had a ULTRA MYSTERY timing problem one time at a pay and play, the timing just went out by like 20 degrees, something must have shifted cos only set the timing the day before then drove it all the way there.

Could not find the fault cos didn't expect it!

Regards your injectors, they bank fire so you only need two test lamps, large LEDs ideally, just join to one injector plug each side because injector banks are commoned.

It will also run with the coolant and fuel sensors unplugged so just play about til you suss what's going on.

Do not rule out duff ECU.
 
Evil, it's been running cold since the ecu chip and 20am maf have been fitted. A rover V8 that wont even sits at a quarter on the temp gauge!! What do you mean exactly when you say auto choke?

Noisy i was aware of the bank firing, i'll check for pulsing while cranking and the resistance at the ecu pins for each bank to see if an injector is faulty.

I've unplugged coolant and fuel temp sensors before and all it seemed to do was up the idle speed a little but no signs of a misfire.

I'll have to check the timing only while it's cranking but i should get a good idea.

Local motor parts place owner used to run a 3.9 and he said he had similiar problems and his ecu had gone faulty
 
dirtydiscov8 said:
Evil, it's been running cold since the ecu chip and 20am maf have been fitted. A rover V8 that wont even sits at a quarter on the temp gauge!! What do you mean exactly when you say auto choke?

Noisy i was aware of the bank firing, i'll check for pulsing while cranking and the resistance at the ecu pins for each bank to see if an injector is faulty.

I've unplugged coolant and fuel temp sensors before and all it seemed to do was up the idle speed a little but no signs of a misfire.

I'll have to check the timing only while it's cranking but i should get a good idea.

Local motor parts place owner used to run a 3.9 and he said he had similiar problems and his ecu had gone faulty
Click to expand...

If I still had my spare I would send it your way to test. noisy must have a spare now? :p

not sure what all your extra gubbins would do or effect on your set up but when I had rich running problems with my old 3.9 with standard hotwire it was down to me fooking about with the base idle and also a duff coolant temp sender. you can test the temp senders with a miltimeter- the vlaues are in haynes. Also if you removed the coolant one then check it for a crap build up, mine was covered in K-seal :p
 
Dr_evil said:
The garage that sold the 3.9 disco near me, popped in to book disco in (they're diesel only really) asked why it was idling at different speeds every so often and was told it was auto choke :p
Click to expand...

its not a choke as such but when the coolant temp is cold it will add more fuel
 
Also noisy is right about the bank fire set up, not sure what that means about the injectors being stuck open- I dont know if it would even run if they were all like that??? if its only running on the drive and super rich you may struggle to get it warm in this weather. you could take the viscous fan off to help it warm up when not moving. if it wont start now then take out the plugs and spin it over without the fuel pump relay in to dry it out and then see if it will go, if it wont wiggle the dizzy side to side with somone cranking it it get it to fire and then keep it going till you figure it out lol
 
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