I think I was around 220k when my FIP got so bad it would cut out at full throttle. I cost me 1,200 for a refurb unit to be fitted (I bottled it and paid a man to do it). Best 1,200 I put into the old girl. But not the last by a long shot.
P38A 2.5dt FIP static timing & ominous HotStart found
- Thread starter RangeRoller dt
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Got a bit sidetracked today (not unusual for me). On the plus side my high pressure pipes are looking fine!
What did I learn - marking where your pipes go back doesn’t work when you paint them
So it’s all pretty much there. Great majority of time was spent doing the worst job ever! - trying to get the clear pipe back on the connector. Do not take it off unless REALLY REALLY necessary!
Notice what’s missing??
Cleaned all injector and inlet ports out with a toothbrush and brake cleaner, replaced worn spill pipes (MAP pipe was cracked to hell) everything is back on except inlet manifold. Got few injectors bled off then starter packed in determined to get it done today and not sure if starter won’t turn or I’ve hooked up fuelling wrong and engine won’t turn I tried to test starter...
Now think I may have toasted my battery too, so that’s 4 today
1) cracked airbox mount climbing on it
2) cracked rear parcel shelf trying to open it from inside
3) starter motor
4) 1000cca 120ah battery internally welded
Wibble
What did I learn - marking where your pipes go back doesn’t work when you paint them
So it’s all pretty much there. Great majority of time was spent doing the worst job ever! - trying to get the clear pipe back on the connector. Do not take it off unless REALLY REALLY necessary!
Notice what’s missing??
Cleaned all injector and inlet ports out with a toothbrush and brake cleaner, replaced worn spill pipes (MAP pipe was cracked to hell) everything is back on except inlet manifold. Got few injectors bled off then starter packed in
determined to get it done today and not sure if starter won’t turn or I’ve hooked up fuelling wrong and engine won’t turn I tried to test starter...Now think I may have toasted my battery too, so that’s 4 today
1) cracked airbox mount climbing on it
2) cracked rear parcel shelf trying to open it from inside
3) starter motor
4) 1000cca 120ah battery internally welded
Wibble
- Posts
- 19,277
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Time for a break. Recharge battery, cup of tea, watch something then go back and look with fresh eyes.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Think the battery is toast!!!
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
static timing has made a difference. Battery is fine - phew! -
Mainly it runs smoother, Idles slightly lower (can hear it - seems no different on rev gauge), it also cruises in high gear at low RPM better and engine runs quieter
It still cuts out.
Expected no different.
Can take a little more heat to put FIP into a fit BUT now when it cuts out it will restart first or second go depending how hot it’s got. Pointing uphill when it cuts out seems to be an issue for it down hill it has half chance starting straight away
Putting your foot down sets cutting out off quicker. It’s going up hills that seems to cause the FIP to heat too much so lift pump is next maybe new clear pipe while I’m at it, my one is kinked, joined and OE looks many times longer and not brown
Only cuts out after long run on zero throttle. Like stopping at a roundabout that curves in, as you lift off and turn wheel it dies.
Even the slightest touch of the Acc. Pedal seems to stop it. I think I may be able to adjust pedal to counteract it for now, or 24yr old mechanism is worn?
Come the cold of winter it will run fine, unless it’s gotten worse by then.
We will find out together
Or I will repair glow#1 and fit an Hotstart for the interim.
Mainly it runs smoother, Idles slightly lower (can hear it - seems no different on rev gauge), it also cruises in high gear at low RPM better and engine runs quieter
It still cuts out.
Expected no different.
Can take a little more heat to put FIP into a fit BUT now when it cuts out it will restart first or second go depending how hot it’s got. Pointing uphill when it cuts out seems to be an issue for it down hill it has half chance starting straight away
Putting your foot down sets cutting out off quicker. It’s going up hills that seems to cause the FIP to heat too much so lift pump is next
maybe new clear pipe while I’m at it, my one is kinked, joined and OE looks many times longer and not brown Only cuts out after long run on zero throttle. Like stopping at a roundabout that curves in, as you lift off and turn wheel it dies.
Even the slightest touch of the Acc. Pedal seems to stop it. I think I may be able to adjust pedal to counteract it for now, or 24yr old mechanism is worn?
Come the cold of winter it will run fine, unless it’s gotten worse by then.
We will find out together
Or I will repair glow#1 and fit an Hotstart for the interim.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Gone for a blast in cool night air (18* according to hevac). No problems, goes like stink!
Only does it in high 20’s temperature range
Only does it in high 20’s temperature range
plumbfisher
Active Member
- Posts
- 523
- Location
- Berwickshire
See your otherwise immaculate engine? Like mine slightly let down by the leak around the oil filler cap. I've tried bending the springy bit to make it a tighter seal but no good. Haven't resorted to a fibre washer (yet) 'cos I think that putting one in there would eventually make it a looser fit in time. I know it's just a wee thing but anyone got an answer?
- Posts
- 19,277
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
That's weird. Mine doesn't leak. How much oil do you have splashing about under it?
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,802
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
There should be negative pressure in the rocker cover, the oil trap/filter is blocked, external on early cars, inside the rocker cover on later cars. Location is on the front left of the rocker cover standing in from of the car, either a pipe from the rocker cover to the turbo air inlet or a pipe with a filter canister.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
It doesn’t leak ; just residual.
The cap is old and cracked, also is tiny gap there - it’s not air tight. No spring/gasket?
New one would be nice aesthetically speaking.
I’ve not had chance get cam cover off yet. It will be polished up like I did to inlet manifold but main job will be cleaning the trap underneath out (screws holding it in) so it can breathe properly.
The black breather pipe going to my intercooler ducting from the cover is loose and dribbles oil slightly. It puffs smoke like an EGR when I start engine without it connected up. Cleaning out the cover should help this and produce a little gain
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Can you spot the differences?
Seems New phone has better camera
Seems New phone has better camera
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
New doozle oil cap - STC 3699.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,802
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
Your car has the external oil trap/filter for the cam cover breather.New doozle oil cap - STC 3699.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
That’s what the round thing is - So no mesh inside? Still dirty dirty in there though, flush cleaned it up bit but it could do with a wipe out.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 44,802
- Location
- Near Poitiers SW France
I would expect something like coarse wire wool and a mesh, neither of my runners have that item, I could go and look on my scrapper if it would help.
- Posts
- 19,277
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
In the trap? Has something in there but cannot remember what. Top cover has metal mesh that gets gummed up.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
In the round black plastic thing on the pipe from the cam cover to the intercooler ducting. Got a braided pipe on one end and slips into the rubber grommet on the ducting. It’s like a breather catch can sorta thing.
No need to look or get oily. I could add some wire wool as you mention for a filter. very good idea
No need to look or get oily. I could add some wire wool as you mention for a filter. very good idea
- Posts
- 19,277
- Location
- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Mine was leaking. I was going to do something about it but StuStrong had a spare and sent me it which was nice. Think the old one might still be on my shed. I'll dig around and see. Won't matter if I break it open. I remember sticking petrol through it and loads of gunk came out.
- Posts
- 58,170
- Location
- Preston Lancs.
It is a vacuum depression valve. Only open to draw gasses out of the crank case when the engine is running, which seals when engine stops. There should be a partial vacuum in the crank case when engine is running. Oil separator is large metal mesh under the inner plate of the cam cover which is held in place by eight or nine Torx screws.
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
- Posts
- 14,379
- Location
- Trapped inside my head @ LZ asylum
Uh oh, look what I found...
It’s an original TigaPiglet design
I’m guessing it doesn’t actually work.
One connector has nothing on it so why put one on there??
Whomever did the job labelled it, so not anyone I know
It’s an original TigaPiglet design
I’m guessing it doesn’t actually work.
One connector has nothing on it so why put one on there??
Whomever did the job labelled it, so not anyone I know
