diesel_jim
New Member
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- 128
2.5 N/A symptoms
- Thread starter tivrulez
- Start date
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tombardier
Well-Known Member
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- 1,076
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- F.O.D, UK.
an engine rebuild could be a bit unnecessary! Better to start with cheaper and simpler options first (new breather cap seal for instance?)
pos
Well-Known Member
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- 3,685
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- West Yorkshire
If the engine is firing oil out of the dipstick tube and it's pushing that much oil out of the breather / oil filler cap it is more than just a simple breathing problem. This is created by blow by which is either compression gasses escaping past worn rings or through cracks in the pistons. It could also be caused by worn valve seals, which will then allow the gasses to enter the rocker area and it will even blow down the push rod channels back into the sump.
If you don't act quick, any oil that is blown into the air intake manifold (via the oil filler cap breather) will cause your engine to run on its own oil and it WILL EXPLODE. Basically, the oil feeds the cylinders along with the diesel, and the engines RPM increases. Obviously, as RPM increases, the amount of oil the engine ingests is increased and it becomes a vicious cycle until the engine either:
1) Burns all the oil in the sump, overheats and seizes
2) Runs so fast that it simply blows a conrod through the block creating a fire
The only way that you can attempt to cut the engine out if it does start to run on its own oil, is by whacking it into 5th, whilst applying the transmission break and foot break. Removing the 12V feed to the cut off solenoid will do nothing
-Pos
If you don't act quick, any oil that is blown into the air intake manifold (via the oil filler cap breather) will cause your engine to run on its own oil and it WILL EXPLODE. Basically, the oil feeds the cylinders along with the diesel, and the engines RPM increases. Obviously, as RPM increases, the amount of oil the engine ingests is increased and it becomes a vicious cycle until the engine either:
1) Burns all the oil in the sump, overheats and seizes
2) Runs so fast that it simply blows a conrod through the block creating a fire
The only way that you can attempt to cut the engine out if it does start to run on its own oil, is by whacking it into 5th, whilst applying the transmission break and foot break. Removing the 12V feed to the cut off solenoid will do nothing
-Pos
pos
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,685
- Location
- West Yorkshire
If it's been taken apart before you should be able to tell. It's just a matter of looking carefully enough. Have a very close look at the head bolts. Are there any small nicks in them, or signs of someone having tampered with them in the past such as rounded edges where a spanner / socket may have slipped for example? Gasket goo from around the bottom of the rocker cover may also be a good indication that it's seen some attention.
Remember if you fit new rings / pistons you must run the engine in properly. First fill the engine with the cheapest, almost 'crappiest' MINERAL oil that you can find. Asda usually sells cheap oil which is ideal. You do not want any synthetic oil in there really. Before you re-fit the pistons to the bores you will need a piston compressor tool to get them back in. They're cheap enough and simple to use. Make sure the gaps on the rings are all at 90 degrees to one another so that the gaps dont all line up with one another when the piston is re-fitted to the bores. You will also need to oil the bores before re-fitting the head so that there isn't immediate damage when you first start up.
Don't allow the engine to sit at an idle speed. Keep the revs alternating and work the engine. Towing a heavy vehicle up a big hill for your first run will do it good. Don't be gentle with it, but then again don't thrash its nuts off until you've done about 1,000 miles.
One other pointer, it will burn oil for the first few hundred miles until the rings bed back in. It's to be expected
-Pos
Remember if you fit new rings / pistons you must run the engine in properly. First fill the engine with the cheapest, almost 'crappiest' MINERAL oil that you can find. Asda usually sells cheap oil which is ideal. You do not want any synthetic oil in there really. Before you re-fit the pistons to the bores you will need a piston compressor tool to get them back in. They're cheap enough and simple to use. Make sure the gaps on the rings are all at 90 degrees to one another so that the gaps dont all line up with one another when the piston is re-fitted to the bores. You will also need to oil the bores before re-fitting the head so that there isn't immediate damage when you first start up.
Don't allow the engine to sit at an idle speed. Keep the revs alternating and work the engine. Towing a heavy vehicle up a big hill for your first run will do it good. Don't be gentle with it, but then again don't thrash its nuts off until you've done about 1,000 miles.
One other pointer, it will burn oil for the first few hundred miles until the rings bed back in. It's to be expected
-Pos
MATT9711
Member
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- 27
- Location
- Trowbridge Wiltshire
I had this last year, turned out two pistons were split, fitted a new set with rings, honed the bores, skimmed and tested the head and fitted new valve stem seals, like it has been said though this is all fairly simple big mecanno stuff and could be done in a few hours (except the head skimming)
Beast o Bodmin
Banned
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****in why bother.wack in a 200tdi.
Beast o Bodmin
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rebuild then
