2.5 DSE P38 auto changing gears funny between 1st and second please watch video

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The clutch is not engaging quickly enough. That is why your getting the rev rise when the change actuator operates. This maybe due to low oil pressure caused by a sticking shuttle valve in valve block. When did you last change gearbox filter and tranmission oil. If the filter is clogged it may cause this. I would take it to a auto box man or contact Ashcrofts as others have said. Cleaning the valve block out is not a DIY exercise unless you seriously know what your doing.
 
grrrrrr there's never anything cheap with this is there???

i have the range rover a year now and its never been changed since ive had it. should i try changing it?

when i topped up the auto fluid the othets gotton more complicated on the P38?r day i noticed the oil colour that was in it was not that nice a colour. i think its due an oil change. if i remember watching an oil change being done on a classic it was simple enough, empty the oil remove the pan, change the filter and then replace the rubber seal. i expect its gotton more complicated on the P38?r
 
P38_Ireland said:
grrrrrr there's never anything cheap with this is there???

i have the range rover a year now and its never been changed since ive had it. should i try changing it?

when i topped up the auto fluid the othets gotton more complicated on the P38?r day i noticed the oil colour that was in it was not that nice a colour. i think its due an oil change. if i remember watching an oil change being done on a classic it was simple enough, empty the oil remove the pan, change the filter and then replace the rubber seal. i expect its gotton more complicated on the P38?r
Click to expand...

No it's more or less the same, just make sure you have a good set of torx sockets for filter screws, they can be a bloody pain. Get it changed and see what happens. Change the filter then run for a week or so, if it improves, then change oil again. There are four or five litres you cannot drain so the second change dilutes that further. You maybe lucky or not but it's worth a try. Better than laying out for a new box. Which you will be doing if that clutch keeps slipping in like it is doing.
 
1st gear ratio for the 4HP22 is 2.480:1 and the transfer box ratio in high range is 45/37 (1.216:1). The final drive ratios are 3.54:1 and the tyre rolling radius around 365mm (whether you’re running 235/70R16 or 255/65R16 – or even 255/55R18 for that matter). So that means 1st is geared at 8.0mph/1000rpm with no torque converter slip. Just before your flared shift the engine speed was 3150rpm and the speedometer reads 36mph. That’s 11.5mph/1000rpm. Even if the speedo is reading a few percent fast there’s no way that the transmission is shifting from 1st gear, especially as there'll be some converter slip too.
 
wammers said:
No it's more or less the same, just make sure you have a good set of torx sockets for filter screws, they can be a bloody pain. Get it changed and see what happens. Change the filter then run for a week or so, if it improves, then change oil again. There are four or five litres you cannot drain so the second change dilutes that further. You maybe lucky or not but it's worth a try. Better than laying out for a new box. Which you will be doing if that clutch keeps slipping in like it is doing.
Click to expand...

true will give that a bash and see what i can do.

Bemble said:
1st gear ratio for the 4HP22 is 2.480:1 and the transfer box ratio in high range is 45/37 (1.216:1). The final drive ratios are 3.54:1 and the tyre rolling radius around 365mm (whether you’re running 235/70R16 or 255/65R16 – or even 255/55R18 for that matter). So that means 1st is geared at 8.0mph/1000rpm with no torque converter slip. Just before your flared shift the engine speed was 3150rpm and the speedometer reads 36mph. That’s 11.5mph/1000rpm. Even if the speedo is reading a few percent fast there’s no way that the transmission is shifting from 1st gear, especially as there'll be some converter slip too.
Click to expand...

might be worth pointing out that the engine has been mapped and has an uprated intercooler so maybe that has something to do with that. im also going to pretend that i know what you mean :doh:
 
Bemble said:
1st gear ratio for the 4HP22 is 2.480:1 and the transfer box ratio in high range is 45/37 (1.216:1). The final drive ratios are 3.54:1 and the tyre rolling radius around 365mm (whether you’re running 235/70R16 or 255/65R16 – or even 255/55R18 for that matter). So that means 1st is geared at 8.0mph/1000rpm with no torque converter slip. Just before your flared shift the engine speed was 3150rpm and the speedometer reads 36mph. That’s 11.5mph/1000rpm. Even if the speedo is reading a few percent fast there’s no way that the transmission is shifting from 1st gear, especially as there'll be some converter slip too.
Click to expand...

Well spotted. But the reason for the slipped change still remains valid.
 
P38_Ireland said:
grrrrrr there's never anything cheap with this is there???

i have the range rover a year now and its never been changed since ive had it. should i try changing it?

when i topped up the auto fluid the othets gotton more complicated on the P38?r day i noticed the oil colour that was in it was not that nice a colour. i think its due an oil change. if i remember watching an oil change being done on a classic it was simple enough, empty the oil remove the pan, change the filter and then replace the rubber seal. i expect its gotton more complicated on the P38?r
Click to expand...

I had the same thing when i first got my range rover 5 years ago, the person that had it before had overfilled the auto trans fluid. i took it down to my "man" in the garage and he took a load out, now runs alot smoother with a small flick of the revs to 3rd.
i notice you said you've topped it up..i don't have to touch the auto fluid.
 
i had a phone call from a rr "gearbox specialist" today from the uk. after telling him the symptoms he informed me that " you need a new transmission....." after 15 seconds of a description. at the princely sum of £750+ vat and delivery and i have to send them my old box. might try change the filter 1st.....!
 
Mine is doing the same thing (also ECU remapped). I also have a filter kit and the (wait for it)... 10lit of oil (although you only use 9.7 I think.

I'm not planning on doing two changes due (see that as a waist of oil) - so I've got myself a little pump) so I can pump the remaining oil out of the box.

I think the cross member may need to come out (or is that just on the Petrol's) for access.

Let us know how you get on (pics) would be good.
 
jwaldron said:
Mine is doing the same thing (also ECU remapped). I also have a filter kit and the (wait for it)... 10lit of oil (although you only use 9.7 I think.

I'm not planning on doing two changes due (see that as a waist of oil) - so I've got myself a little pump) so I can pump the remaining oil out of the box.

I think the cross member may need to come out (or is that just on the Petrol's) for access.

Let us know how you get on (pics) would be good.
Click to expand...

You won't need five litres of that oil. Refill is just over five litres there is always around four litres left in the system you cannot drain. 9.7 litres is from totally empty. No need to remove cross member.
 
if oil is real dirty or smells burnt you have got clutch problems ,so no point in wasting money doing a service on it ,its quite common for clutch a and or b to start to burn out ,can be fixed by any competent person as dosent require complete box strip down
 
P38_Ireland said:
yeah i bought a new box from the UK, cost me £350 with guarantee. mechanic bill of €290 i was fairly happy with that.
Click to expand...

Bloody hell.... did you say new as in NEW, Reccon or second hand for that money?

Complete with Transfer box or just the main lump?

Did you put a new Torgue converter in? replaced VC?

Sorry for loads of Q's....

where did you get it from?
 
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