Series 3 2 1/4 Diesel starting issue

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Webley1991

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London
I have an annoying starting issue with my Series 3 2 1/4 Diesel

I find that it is impossible to start from cold with the hand throttle set to idle speed. This is with the heater plugs set to on for a good 10 seconds.

If I move the throttle up a few notches, it will then eventually start and make a lot of white smoke.

If I move the hand throttle back to the idle position at this point, it will cut out. I have to wait a few minutes until the engine is warm for it to stay ticking over on the idle speed setting.

This was a fully rebuilt engine and injector pump. Where would be the first suggestion to look at what might be causing this?

Nothing should be too damp is it is kept inside a garage.

Thanks for any replies.
 
Should not need any throttle to start as pump is designed to give extra fuel for start.
ie once running governor reduces fuelling.
 
If I remember right, the handbook suggests starting with foot to the floor whilst cranking.
I've never needed to with mine though. Are you sure your heater plugs are working properly?

A bit of smoke on start up is reassuring. Only time to worry is when there's no smoke at all.
 
I tested each plug as shown in the manual so I don't see why they shouldn't be. Not unless they aren't getting enough current.

I will have to try starting it with the pedal to the floor.
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Smoke can be pump timing...its very critical.

Nick.
 
If I recall correctly (it has been 16 years since I had one of these lumps, albeit a very tired one), they need to have the throttle floored to fire up. When I replaced that engine with a freshly rebuilt 2.5 N/A I was really disappointed to find out that it would take just as long to fire up as the 2.25 I had just chucked into a skip (I was flooring the throttle too). I spoke to a fellow enthusiast (internet forums hadn't been invented at the time - they followed about a year later) who told me that the injection pump on the 2.5 is totally different to the 2.25 and needs to be left at idle to fire up. 7 seconds on the heaters, no feet on the pedals and away it went. So, in a nutshell, with your 2.25, bury the throttle in the footwell and give it a go.
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Smoke can be pump timing...its very critical.

Nick.
That's what i used to do too! There used to be an ex-school teacher of mine who's guts I hated who would be jogging in my direction every morning. I would crank the motor for a few seconds, apply the heaters until he was about 30 metres away, then I would hit the starter and engulf him in a cloud of carcinogenic soot and evil :)
 
No need to mess with the hand throttle...just press the foot throttle.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

+1 on nickjax method,helps a lot when its cold weather.
 
Someone who knows a lot more about diesel engines than I do commented that they could hear a chuffing sound in the exhaust note.

They called this "hunting". Apparently it means that the pump timing needs to be advanced a few degrees.

Could this be connected to the starting trouble?
 
Someone who knows a lot more about diesel engines than I do commented that they could hear a chuffing sound in the exhaust note.

They called this "hunting". Apparently it means that the pump timing needs to be advanced a few degrees.

Could this be connected to the starting trouble?
id be looking at tappets ie valves fully opening or passing gas,if you can hear a chuffing,though timing is likely to be retarded slightly through wear in chain and skew gear
 
.

When I had a 2.25d...I used to first of all....crank the motor for 5 secs and dont pre heat....then give it 5 or 10secs of heat...should fire right away.

The first cranking squirts some fuel in...then heat it and away you go.

Nick.

tried that the other morning when it was frosty, worked a treat
 
Yes if your pump timing is retarded...it will have a sort of miss at idle with puffs of blue smoke more so when cold...so best checked engine warm...I used to just advance the pump a mm at a time....if the engine after adjustment sounds knocky or harsh you have advanced it to far.

Nick.
 
Thanks for the replies. It runs at idle without any smoke.

It is a fully overhauled engine including a new timing chain, so there shouldn't be any wear or slack in the chain.
 
I adjusted the pump timing back a bit and it seems to run better at idle with the engine warm.

However, when it's cold it does seem to misfire a bit and make puffs of smoke as nickjaxe described.

Since even before the ajustment it seems to struggle to start at idle speed. I find that I need to put the hand throttle up a few notches to get it to start. I have to idle it fast for a couple of minutes until it warms up a bit. Is this normal?

it also throws out a lot of white smoke when it first turns over.
 
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