2.0 D Engine won't start after having it taken out

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R

Rickster

New Member
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6
Hi
spent three days taking out the freelander 2.0 diesel engine and changing the cam belt and clutch.

I've put it back in and can't get the bloody thing to start! :)
My attempts at bleeding are as follows

pump the hand pump bubble - open up the bleed on the pump and it trickles out fuel.

Cracked the top off the injectors one at a time and cranked briefly until fuel started coming out of the top and then retightened.

Had to get a new battery as the last one died and have given in lots of turning over to try and get it to go.

Not much joy at all. There are clouds of fuel smoke coming out the back so I believe that it is getting fuel. (not 100% certain but it seems to be ok).

What would you guys suggest I try?

It's a freelander 1 - T reg - 2.0 L series is it - the pre TD4 type
pulling my hair out here - wish I'd put the damn thing into a garage.
 
Last edited:
Rickster said:
Hi
spent three days taking out the freelander 2.0 diesel engine and changing the cam belt and clutch.

I've put it back in and can't get the bloody thing to start! :)
My attempts at bleeding are as follows

pump the hand pump bubble - open up the bleed on the pump and it trickles out fuel.

Cracked the top off the injectors one at a time and cranked briefly until fuel started coming out of the top and then retightened.

Had to get a new battery as the last one died and have given in lots of turning over to try and get it to go.

Not much joy at all. There are clouds of fuel smoke coming out the back so I believe that it is getting fuel. (not 100% certain but it seems to be ok).

What would you guys suggest I try?

It's a freelander 1 - T reg - 2.0 L series is it - the non turbo one.

pulling my hair out here - wish I'd put the damn thing into a garage.
Click to expand...

I think I would check the timing again, if there is clouds of smoke then there is fuel. Try some wd40 down its hole and see if it runs on that, if it dunt then I'd go for timing. Down the air intake with filter out!!
 
Sorry to hear about your trouble. Try asking Howardo, he's your L-series man.

Did all diesel freelanders not have a turbo fitted?
 
thanks for the replies by the way.

If I have goofed and screwed the timing I'll kick myself.

Does anybody know what the thread is on the tool for taking off the timing belt tenstion?

Or where I can get a tool?

Can't get my head around this now- if I have the pin in the flywheel and the pin in the fuel pump wheel - can the timing be out?

Headache?!*
 
Last edited:
thanks
can you clarify what you mean?

Do you mean the timing between the crank and cam (not the cam/pump) as that hasn't been touched.

If so I am a bit confused as to how it can slip half a tooth?

Surely it would be one full tooth out one way or the other?

Just trying to get my head around what may have gone wrong so I can understand what steps to take to check it all.

Really grateful for all replies
 
no such thing as a stupid question where I am right now mate! I had a preliminary look at all the connections but will do some proper checks to make sure before I go for the more drastic options.

thanks

Rick
 
Turns out I was a tooth out on the timing at the crank! How I managed that I don't know. Only problem now is that the brand new clutch and clutch cylinders that I put in ar jamming somewhere!!!!!!

Put the clutch down and it struggled to come back up. pumped it a few times and it seems to be ok but then tried to put it in gear - no chance (with the engine running).

Had a look and it looks like the slave it pumping ok but the clutch arm is not moving - it looks like the strain is just oging back into the slave mounting bracket and making it flex.

New clutch, new slave and master cylinder setup - any suggestions on what to do?
 
The clutch release arm is seizing if you can see the slave bracket flexing when you press the clutch.
 
Rickster said:
Turns out I was a tooth out on the timing at the crank! How I managed that I don't know. Only problem now is that the brand new clutch and clutch cylinders that I put in ar jamming somewhere!!!!!!

Put the clutch down and it struggled to come back up. pumped it a few times and it seems to be ok but then tried to put it in gear - no chance (with the engine running).

Had a look and it looks like the slave it pumping ok but the clutch arm is not moving - it looks like the strain is just oging back into the slave mounting bracket and making it flex.

New clutch, new slave and master cylinder setup - any suggestions on what to do?
Click to expand...

You need to determine if the fork is still connected to the release bearing although since its all internal I dont know of you can see in to check this.

Its not uncommon for the fork to slip out and now the slave cylinder is at full travel. if you can check these things to give me some more information, but it probably is a gearbox out again.

What way did you fit the plate in with the deep bit into the pressure plate, and are you sure you locked the release bearing onto the arm, but the slave cylinder is inside the gearbox yes?

See if you can check these things and get back to us.
 
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