19j Lift pump, whats all the bits for?

They come with a lot of bits, my old one doesn't have the bits, what are the bits for?

Are the bits olives and fittings, allowing you to cater for different pipe work, fitment etc?

nobber said:

They come with a lot of bits, my old one doesn't have the bits, what are the bits for?

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any pics

This is it, its not so much the pipework im worried about , more the spacer, I can buy the pump without the spacer so I was wondering if I would need it or not?

Isnt it the case that the arms on 200tdi lift pumps are longer due to there being a raised casting in the block. The same size as that spacer

So to save making 2 lift pumps they made 1 for the 200 and a spacer for the 19j.

I had the same issue as i bought a delphi lift pump thatnwouldnt fit my 19j for love not money ......then i found out about the spacer

So wether you can get away with or without tye kit you will neeed to see if your has had a 200tdi replacement already and has a nylon spacer in place from the previous replacement.

its not the block ,its the difference between 200tdi ali cover plate and 19j steel plate

Yeah what he said its been a while.

Thanks chaps.

So guys, should it matter which one of these I fit?

Fuel Lift Pump (Allmakes) ETC7869 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Fuel Lift Pump 2.5 N/A&TD 200Tdi Includes Fitting Kit (Allmakes) STC1190 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

The first one is the one that's on there now, I did run one of these for a while,
LAND ROVER SERIES 2 AND 3 2.25 LTR ENGINE FUEL LIFT PUMP GENUINE DELPHI HFP181 | eBay

I tried to change my lift pump yesterday on my 90 which has a 200tdi engine from a disco fitted. But I can't get it to mate correctly to the engine block there is always a slight gap.
I didn't fit the spacer if I do I would imagine it would bolt up tight. But the old pump I took off had no spacer fitted and the arm seems the same length.
Should I fit the spacer or not? If the old one never had the spacer and the arm seems the same length, I would think if I fit the spacer on the new pump the arm wouldn't reach the cam as it rotates when the engine is running causing the pump not to work?
The only real difference I can see between the old a new pump is the arm seems stiffer on the new pump so I thought maybe that the position of the cam needs the arm lifted to bolt it in correctly and where it is stiff it is pushing it away from the block so tried turning the engine over on the starter quickly then tried to line fit it again but still exactly the same.
I then tried just doing the bolts up tight forcing the arm up inside I guess, thinking maybe I couldn't push it in far enough by hand. It looks like it is now mating flat to the block but not tight enough to stop it from rotating side to side. I had to use the old gasket as the new pump only had a gaskets bonded on the the spacer block. I will get a new gasket and maybe this will fix the problem but it doesn't seem right to me, an I'm worried I shouldn't have just kept tighten the bolts forcing it in, I don't want to ruin the cam inside.

You will feel some resistance as the arm contacts the cam , but not a lot.

Look at the arm on the old pump, there should be wear marks on the part that points upwards at the very end.

You only need the spacer if the block doesn't have one incorporated into the plate that the pump bolt's onto.

All the other bits are for the pumps that had the flow and return going in sideways instead of into the top as the new ones do.

Are you trying to fit a Britpart pump? Is the mating surface on the new pump and mounting plate on the engine perfectly flat?

Are the bolts too long?