P38A 1997 2.5 new engine- won't start

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director_steve

director_steve

Active Member
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Location
London. BUT I'M STILL HUMAN.
Hi all! It's been a while since my last post, but I've been using the forum a lot to help me slowly refurbish a p38 diesel I bought by accident and subsequently fell in love with.

I like it so much I decided to replace the engine (which was worn!) with a much lower mileage one. After much swearing, I've installed A 75ile engine which I sourced from a Vauxhall omega. Unfortunately, I can't get the injector pump to work though- there is fuel reaching the FIP, but the engine just won't start. The orange 'fuel spraying icon' remains on constantly as well.

I read that in order for the Omega FIP to work, you had to swap over the top half of the FIP (the top half- where the electrics are), which I've done so the electrical bits are all from the original Range Rover engine.

I'm at my wits end now and just want my rangie back.

HELP?
 
director_steve said:
Hi all! It's been a while since my last post, but I've been using the forum a lot to help me slowly refurbish a p38 diesel I bought by accident and subsequently fell in love with.

I like it so much I decided to replace the engine (which was worn!) with a much lower mileage one. After much swearing, I've installed A 75ile engine which I sourced from a Vauxhall omega. Unfortunately, I can't get the injector pump to work though- there is fuel reaching the FIP, but the engine just won't start. The orange 'fuel spraying icon' remains on constantly as well.

I read that in order for the Omega FIP to work, you had to swap over the top half of the FIP (the top half- where the electrics are), which I've done so the electrical bits are all from the original Range Rover engine.

I'm at my wits end now and just want my rangie back.

HELP?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately you can't just swap it and plonk it on, it has to be set precisely in position. You also need to ensure that the quantity servo pin is engaged properly in the fuel control sleeve. If you are sure it is. Back off the bolts and tap it forwards of backwards until you get engine to fire up. Then tap it until you get a rock steady 750 RPM idle. Then torque bolts up. Number four injector or the CPS maybe the cause of the MIL lamp check the connections to them. If they look good you will need diag to find out what is causing that.
 
wammers said:
Unfortunately you can't just swap it and plonk it on, it has to be set precisely in position. You also need to ensure that the quantity servo pin is engaged properly in the fuel control sleeve. If you are sure it is. Back off the bolts and tap it forwards of backwards until you get engine to fire up. Then tap it until you get a rock steady 750 RPM idle. Then torque bolts up. Number four injector or the CPS maybe the cause of the MIL lamp check the connections to them. If they look good you will need diag to find out what is causing that.
Click to expand...
Thanks! The main body of the FIP has stayed with the engine (new engine came with the pump already attached), it's just the top bit that I've swapped over. Is it the top bit I should be tapping forwards and backwards?

Thanks again!
Steve
 
director_steve said:
Thanks! The main body of the FIP has stayed with the engine (new engine came with the pump already attached), it's just the top bit that I've swapped over. Is it the top bit I should be tapping forwards and backwards?

Thanks again!
Steve
Click to expand...

Yes it is set when pump is built and must be set exactly or fuelling will be incorrect.
 
Dopey knows someone near Heathrow who knows these engines inside out. He can probably sort it (for a decent price) if you get really stuck. Assuming you can get it to him.
 
I have to admit when I had mine off it was all marked up in the correct position on all sides and I still had a nightmare getting it back in place and running smoothly, although I later found out my lift-pump was dying so that probably didn't help. We're talking fractions of a millimetre movement but you have to find the right spot in the first place. You can run it with the inlet manifold off no problem.

Wammers said to "ensure that the quantity servo pin is engaged properly in the fuel control sleeve". I did this by putting the pump top on with the pin through the hole in the square thing, drag the top of the pump over the other side, tilt it carefully and check the square thing has moved and then tilt it back flat, move it back where it was before and tilt again to make sure the sleeve has moved back. If it hasn't then the pin wasn't engaged properly. If it has then bolts in and nip in place.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I have to admit when I had mine off it was all marked up in the correct position on all sides and I still had a nightmare getting it back in place and running smoothly, although I later found out my lift-pump was dying so that probably didn't help. We're talking fractions of a millimetre movement but you have to find the right spot in the first place. You can run it with the inlet manifold off no problem.

Wammers said to "ensure that the quantity servo pin is engaged properly in the fuel control sleeve". I did this by putting the pump top on with the pin through the hole in the square thing, drag the top of the pump over the other side, tilt it carefully and check the square thing has moved and then tilt it back flat, move it back where it was before and tilt again to make sure the sleeve has moved back. If it hasn't then the pin wasn't engaged properly. If it has then bolts in and nip in place.
Click to expand...

Thanks! not too sure what you mean by the 'square thing'. I'm trying a few things out with the old pump (picture attached).

The top half of the pump has a round pin hanging down (which rotates a little on a spring). I've been trying to slot that into the 'cup' into what I think is the 'sleeve'.

I'm pretty sure I've managed that- where I am now is that I've got fuel getting to each injector. When I crank the engine with the intake manifold off I'm getting white smoke out (from all but no2 cylinder), but it's not firing.

Is this still to do with the FIP?
 
director_steve said:
Thanks! not too sure what you mean by the 'square thing'. I'm trying a few things out with the old pump (picture attached).

The top half of the pump has a round pin hanging down (which rotates a little on a spring). I've been trying to slot that into the 'cup' into what I think is the 'sleeve'.

I'm pretty sure I've managed that- where I am now is that I've got fuel getting to each injector. When I crank the engine with the intake manifold off I'm getting white smoke out (from all but no2 cylinder), but it's not firing.

Is this still to do with the FIP?
Click to expand...

Think you need some who knows what they are doing to look at it for you.
 
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