Grrr Thanks for responding. The only thing noticed about fluid level is when pump is on fluid in reservoir goes down to near minimum and when ignition is turned off it goes back to maximum. The pump does keep running when ignition is on. Not sure what you mean by does switch go high or low or does signal go through abs pump or ECU. You didn't give me the full address Martyuk? Lastly, nonone has responded to whether a scanner is needed to get air from inside pump by when the abs pump is replaced.
1996 RR 4.0 SE hard to stop, pump keeps running
- Thread starter Rover9676
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Well I followed rave to the letter 2 times but when I get the last step "Turn on ignition and let the pump run until it stops accept it won't stop. Not sure what else to do. The only thing I come up with, is that a scanner is needed to open and close the valve in the pump. I did replace the abs pump, accumulator, pressure switch and new relay. 3 are used but have been swapped out twice except relay it's new. Frustrated!
All advice is appreciated. 1996 RR 4.0 SE automatic.
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There are a few things that can cause your problem. The black ABS pump relay is stuck closed or the pressure switch is faulty. The pressure switch shuts the pump on and off via the black relay. There must be pressure being generated or the fluid level would not drop with pump running. When topping up tank you must switch on wait for pump to stop then top up to max mark. After standing a while with ignition off fluid level should be above max mark and drop to it when ignition is switched on and pump runs. The pressure generation and storage for braking is separate from the system itself. No amount of bleeding will make the pump stop. You also say that when pump is running fluid level drops in tank but rises again when ignition is off, this is normal but it should not happen quickly. If it is happening quickly as soon as ignition is switched off the NRV has failed in the pump. That also could be your problem. Pump should charge the accumulator then stop. If the NRV is duff and there is constant back flow that is not going to happen.
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so... by turning the ignition on and watching the fluid and if it drops or maybe not?
if it charges and the level drops, then turn off the ignition and see if the fluid level quickly rises back up? this could point to wammers' very good point!
I Thank you! The relay is brand new. The abs pump is used. I've tried 3 different Pressure Switches; the one that's already on the RR, I purchased one online and one with an entire unit (ABS-pump-accumulator-pressure switch). The probability of all these parts being faulty Seems unlikely. Does anyone know where I can get the pump rebuilt or get a good used. I will start searching for a used pump after work today. As always thank you all for assisting me.
Thanks,
It goes right back-up. I watched with some else in the vehicle operating the ignition and helping with the bleeding.
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so, just to clarify that there couldn't be anything draining the fluid. the fluid level will drop when the is running and will rise immediately when the pump has stopped? now, if @wammers will grace us once more, we need to know exactly where the none return valve is and maybe it could be replaced without a pump rebuild...
Correct! Everything is dry and no fluid leaks discovered. All the wheels are off no leaking cailpers or lines identified.
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fingers crossed his crystal bal will light up and show us the way, wammers that is
Datatek
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NRV is most likely part of the pump, but I'm guessing.
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fingers crossed his crystal bal will light up and show us the way, wammers that is
Sorry Mark no idea have never stripped one. My guess is that it will be a ball or flat plate and spring and accessible somewhere in the outer casing. The fluid from the pump will be forced past the ball/plate and seat to pressurise the accumulator. Fluid always leaks back over time into the tank and raises the fluid level. That is why Land rover state it can take up to 40 second for working pressure to be obtained from start up, if the vehicle has stood for any length of time. What it should not do is leak back quickly after the pump stops. Or as it seems in this case back flow constantly so that cut off point cannot be reached.
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It's a case of getting your fingers dirty @Rover9676 and having a crack at it, it could just be gummed up with crap....
Hey Thanks! So if I'm understanding you I should take the abs pump apart and clean it. Question if I clean it and that doesn't resolve my problem, should I try and have it rebuilt or find/buy another abs pump?
RangeRoller dt
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If you see the price of them I’m sure you will do your very best to fix the one you’ve got
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Well, if you think "I've nothing to lose trying" then give it a go or you could source another and never find out why!! I'd pull it apart and see first. Then decide.
RangeRoller dt
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Stc 2783 - £2,245.63
Datatek
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Pumps are available on Ebay for not a lot.
Thanks to you all! I'm learning a lot. I'm going to do both especially since I still have the pump that was taken off in place of the one that I have now. I will check Ebay for another abs pump (Not sure how to choose a good one) and take apart the old one after work today.Well, if you think "I've nothing to lose trying" then give it a go or you could source another and never find out why!! I'd pull it apart and see first. Then decide.
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Hang on, there has been two pumps both behaving the same?
Is it something in the brake valve block? There must be some kind of NVR in there?
If both pumps do the same thing possibly the block is at fault?
Is it something in the brake valve block? There must be some kind of NVR in there?
If both pumps do the same thing possibly the block is at fault?
Wammers, I am curious no one has answered this question, does the changing the abs pump ever require an analyzer/reprogrammed to bleed air out of the system?
